Jancoe wrote: ↑Mon Jun 06, 2022 10:33 pm
If I remember correctly your travel relief should be set to 2400 +-50 psi. On the back of the frame where a 3point would be bolted to the frame. Remove the bolt and then relief cap and stick a long screwdriver something like a 14" one through the hole over top of the rear axle to the relief screw and make adjustments. Make one if you have to out of a rod if you need to.
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This is correct. The pressure for the loaders is 2400 +-50.
The garden tractors are the previously stated levels.
Propane57 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 07, 2022 4:52 am
That sure would be frustrating Harry. Hope you get it figured out. Maybe Jancoe’s idea is the trick to adjust it.
Noel
Come on, guys. The Case engineers are better than that. They do have to set these after final assembly, probably.
Harry wrote: ↑Mon Jun 06, 2022 7:23 pm
Toady I dug a trench with my 644lbh about 30" long. It worked incredubly well during the trenching operation and I'm glad I rebuilt the hoe cylinders over the winter. I then moved some dirt in a low spot of the garden to back fill with the trenched dirt, then pull the original dirt over the top. After removing the dirt it was a bit wet underneath and because of the low to the ground counter weights it kept getting stuck.
I parked it and returned with the 646 with more ground clearance to stop the getting stuck situation. I would scoop up a bucket full of dirt that was removed from the trench. Then move into the low area to to dump it. It also would get stuck in the low area. The tires would sink into the mud and the pressure relief would squeal and just sit there. I would have to dump the load and use the loader to work my way out. Very frustrating situation for me and after moving back and forth through the mud hole I finally filled up the low spot and back dragged the original dirt into the area.
The 644lbh has a hydraulic pressure gauge that a PO installed on the dashboard. Under a load the pressure relief would squeal at 1500 psi. I see according to the Case manual this should be set at 2000 +- 50 psi to 2100 =- 50 psi.
I pulled the 646 into the shop and crawled under it to look at the travel control and found it is located so close to the rear it is literally impossible to take off the cap to adjust the pressure yet alone get a screw driver in there to do it. The travel control is bolted to the floor board and the floor board is welded to the frame of the tractor. I didn't look under the 644lbh, but I imagine it is about the same situation.
May I ask how can an owner set the pressure, when it is impossible to get in there? I could cut a section of the floor board away and have it bolt back in place, but I doubt I could get a screw driver in there to adjust it. A dilemia for sure.
Keep the Peace
Harry
At least traction can be fixed. The stock tires were not even close to what you needed until they switched to the 12" wide tires. You can go 26x12x12 or 29x12.50-15. I have sets of the latter. Both were off Kabota tractors. With the 29x12.50-15 the single piece 162 lbs combine weight does fit into the deeper rim.
Propane57 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 07, 2022 4:52 am
That sure would be frustrating Harry. Hope you get it figured out. Maybe Jancoe’s idea is the trick to adjust it.
Noel
Come on, guys. The Case engineers are better than that. They do have to set these after final assembly, probably.
The 644lbh is a 1974 GT. I was thinking that the spring has gotten a bit weak and just needs to be tweaked.
Harry wrote: ↑Mon Jun 06, 2022 7:23 pm
Toady I dug a trench with my 644lbh about 30" long. It worked incredubly well during the trenching operation and I'm glad I rebuilt the hoe cylinders over the winter. I then moved some dirt in a low spot of the garden to back fill with the trenched dirt, then pull the original dirt over the top. After removing the dirt it was a bit wet underneath and because of the low to the ground counter weights it kept getting stuck.
I parked it and returned with the 646 with more ground clearance to stop the getting stuck situation. I would scoop up a bucket full of dirt that was removed from the trench. Then move into the low area to to dump it. It also would get stuck in the low area. The tires would sink into the mud and the pressure relief would squeal and just sit there. I would have to dump the load and use the loader to work my way out. Very frustrating situation for me and after moving back and forth through the mud hole I finally filled up the low spot and back dragged the original dirt into the area.
The 644lbh has a hydraulic pressure gauge that a PO installed on the dashboard. Under a load the pressure relief would squeal at 1500 psi. I see according to the Case manual this should be set at 2000 +- 50 psi to 2100 =- 50 psi.
I pulled the 646 into the shop and crawled under it to look at the travel control and found it is located so close to the rear it is literally impossible to take off the cap to adjust the pressure yet alone get a screw driver in there to do it. The travel control is bolted to the floor board and the floor board is welded to the frame of the tractor. I didn't look under the 644lbh, but I imagine it is about the same situation.
May I ask how can an owner set the pressure, when it is impossible to get in there? I could cut a section of the floor board away and have it bolt back in place, but I doubt I could get a screw driver in there to adjust it. A dilemia for sure.
Keep the Peace
Harry
At least traction can be fixed. The stock tires were not even close to what you needed until they switched to the 12" wide tires. You can go 26x12x12 or 29x12.50-15. I have sets of the latter. Both were off Kabota tractors. With the 29x12.50-15 the single piece 162 lbs combine weight does fit into the deeper rim.
Thanks for the suggestion on the tires Steve. The original tires are long over due to be repalced, weatered checked badly but still hold air because of the tubes inside. Another item on the list of things to due. I never added weight on the rims, I firued with a hoe on the back that was a big counter weight!
Eugen wrote: ↑Sat Jun 11, 2022 10:07 am
The hoe has got to weigh more than 350 lbs. In that kind of mud even big tractors get stuck. I'm afraid there is no easy solution.
The book show the D100 with vertical stabilizer weights in at 810lbs. And I think the counter weight was 500. Like you said even big tractors get stuck.
I’ve got wheel weights and tires filled with calcium chloride on my big Case, and I really have to watch it in soft ground. It will spin and get stuck fast.
I had the 646 out yesterday roto tilling some dirt then using the bucket to move it. Right in the middle of my project the engine died. No fuel getting to the carb from the 2 year old electric fuel pump. I don't use this tractor during the winter and not a lot in the summer so not a lot of use. I had to tow it back to the shop and yes no fuel getting to the carb. The engine is a Onan CCK and it has a plate on the top fo the engine where a mechanical fuel pump, cam driven can be installed. I'm going to take one off a doner engine I picked up a few years ago and install it. I'm very disapointed in the performance of this Faucet electic fuel pump. Just when you get one running another GT's goes down. I like working on them just not during the busiest time of year.
Keep the Peace
Harry
Always wondered about those electrical pumps @Harry. Good thing you have one to replace it with. I ran into some problems myself last night after I moved some dirt trying to level and fill the holes where the stumps were. My 644 got quite hot, and started to motor boat. Then I had to give it more choke to keep it going. Then it stopped altogether I'll start another thread for troubleshooting it.
I eliminated the electric fuel pump then checked it again wiring it directly to battery. No pumping and was going to put on a mechaical Onan pump which is powered by the cam from a donor engine. I replace the diaphram on it mounted it on the engine and could not get a drop out of the pump, even after priming it. So now it's unto plan C which is what Boomer mentioned last week during a phone conversation. Pulse pump which many small engines have today. He mentioned I could connected the vaccum side of the pulse pump up to the dipstick tube. I was thinking maybe I could attach it to the breather which is in close proximity to the carb. Anyone have any other ideas out there?
I'll start another thread for troubleshooting it. 