644 & 646 disapointing results

[Harry]

I looked under the 644lbh today and this is what I saw. No way to fit a screw driver with the hoe attached and from underneath no way to get the cap off to fit a screw driver in. It could possibly be a two person job. I believe on the 646 without a hoe I could get a screw driver into the area. With one person behind the tractor turning the screw driver and another underneath the tractor guiding the screw driver it could be accomplished. On the 644lbh there is no access for a screw driver unless i take the hoe off or cut an access hole for the screw driver. I think I'll start with the 646 first and report back with the results.
If any members have tried to do this please chime in with ideas that may help.

Keep the Peace
Harry

[Eugen]

What is the distance there @Harry ?

[DavidBarkey]

What is the distance there @Harry ?


D5EDFEE9-AA75-4422-8C87-52E76E0DA855.jpeg

Based on the size relation between the acorn nut which is around 9/16" wrench and the space I would say about 5/8" - 3/4" at most . Tighter than a ......

[Harry]

I didn't measure it David, but I would say at least an inch. The problem I would say is the distance past the hard hydraulic line to the acorn is about four inches. So getting a hand in there is near impossible for my hands.

Keep the Peace
Harry

[MattA]

Long reach screwdrivers
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-1 ... 65772.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-s ... 34253.html

[MattA]

I recall seeing a parts list on the old forum for the gauge setup to adjust the pressure relief.

[Eugen]

Maybe a ratcheting wrench for the cap. And a ratcheting low profile flat screwdriver bit?

[thebuildist]

I was just under my 4020 working on pressure relief today. 5/8" deep well socket and a stubby flathead screwdriver. On mine it's pretty easy to access, so the 644 must be set up a little different.

So I can't address the accessibility question, but I can tell you that you need a 5/8 socket to get the cap off.

Bob

[Eugen]

For the screwdriver, I'm thinking something like this low profile ratcheting screwdriver with short bits (plus you could shorten the right bit if needed.

https://www.amazon.com/MulWark-Profile- ... HJ1ZQ&th=1

Ratcheting wrench of 5/8 size can be found too, to get the cap off. I'm thinking to put the cap on might be quite an adventure though. Perhaps pressing it in place with a flat screwdriver while turning the ratcheting wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-93005 ... 119&sr=8-6

I'm not saying it would be easy, but perhaps doable with some amount of tweaking.

[JSinMO]

I went up to the shop to try to get some pictures of mine for a possible point of reference for your project.

It appears my set up is different. I don’t have a cross brace behind the valve body. And it looks like there is an access hole on the mount for the hoe.

Either way I see what your saying. You almost need a double jointed 80 pound assistant to get twisted around just right to access it!

You’ve given me the idea of adding a gauge to mine at some point. Is your gauge plumbed to the test port on the travel valve or up by the pump?