Frozen throttle cable

[Jancoe]

What does everyone use when they need to lube a throttle cable? Mine had water in it. Probably an ounce or two worth. Enough to make big problem at 10f trying to snow blow. Tore it out, dried it and lubed it with Gibbs penetrating oil. I used motor oil before on one and that worked good. The cable is missing the rubber grommet on the end at the lever to stop the water so I added some heat shrink tubing to help seal it off. May need to replace the cable. Will see how it works out.


Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[Spike188]

Jancoe, the heat shrink addition sound like a great idea. Another is to slice a piece of inner tube or rubber and slide it over the control handle before remounting. That should stop moister from running off the dash and getting to the cable. That will help keep the moister off of the control and cable end. My first 646 had a lot of issues with snow melt during the winter. It would even get water in the engine via the air cleaner cover bolt. Then water find its way into the cylinder and freeze. A small cookie sheet inverted over the air cleaner corrected that problem.

It is hard to see but the early 646 tractors have a wire mesh opening across the top of the hood.

Spike

[Spike188]

Here is a better picture of the 646 with mesh opening in the hood.

They were not built for outdoor storage.
Spike

[Gordy]

There almost always seems to be a dip or low spot in the cables. With those plastic covered cables, the best thing that works for me is to remove a inch or so x 1/8" of the plastic from the bottom of the cable in the lowest spot, this lets the water drain out.


Gordy

[propane1]

I have heard to put engine anti freeze on them. And better yet, a bit of work, is to take them off the tractor and soak them in the anti freeze. Really to bad that this stuff couldn’t be run by rods, like a Farmall tractor. On my LGT 100 Ford aka, Grunt, it’s throttle is all moved by rods.

Noel

[Harry]

In the past I have taken the cable out of the sheath and cleaned it good. The lubed it with transmission fluid, and put it back in. Then put a rubber hose over it. Just my two cents to a solution to a problem!

Keep the Peace
Harry

[DavidBarkey]

@Jancoe This one is a sure cure . Now it involves removing the cable assembly. Slip a 1/4" clear hose over (food grade available at hardware stores ect. , don't use fuel grade the alh. in it will eat the fuel hose) . Leave long at carb end for now . Using a small squirt bottle like additive come in force concentrate antifreeze in the open end . When it start leaking out the lever end clamp off with zip tie . Finish topping off and zip tie around cable back far enough that can be reinstalled and now remove the excess from carb end . Some excess will leak out so put a rag under the carb end over night .
Hope this helps guys

Dave

[ssmewing]

They make cable lube that has a special gizmo to get the cable filled with lube. You have to buy with the gizmo the first time. It clamps onto either end and the can of spray lube forces the lube all the way through the cable. Usually, you only have to do that once during the life of the cable. Unless the cable has a lot of rust in it. Then it has to be replaced. You cannot just lube rust and water and expect that to work.

[Eugen]

Good topic, as the choke cable on my 644 always gets frozen. I never took the time to look for a fix. Good suggestions here guys, much appreciated!

[DavidBarkey]

They make cable lube that has a special gizmo to get the cable filled with lube. You have to buy with the gizmo the first time. It clamps onto either end and the can of spray lube forces the lube all the way through the cable. Usually, you only have to do that once during the life of the cable. Unless the cable has a lot of rust in it. Then it has to be replaced. You cannot just lube rust and water and expect that to work.

Steve , Can you upload link to said gizmo?
Thanks

Dave