Adding a spool valve

[Eugen]

Maybe he can say something about it here, he's a member too @SylvesterCalzone

[thebuildist]

It makes sense that they'd use a standard PB sleeve. But the trick is knowing which one. I guess I could buy one and machine the hole to fit.

Let me see what's out there that's within the range of these measurements.

Bob

[Eugen]

Thinking about how I'd do this, there are three items that I see a little more difficult for the home machinist.

1. The location of the hole in the valve housing, so that it fits precisely aligned with the inner hole where the sleeve tip + o-ring goes in.
2. What kind of thread goes on both the inner surface of the hole, and the outside of the sleeve, and what tool to use to put the thread on. So, NPT thread? Hard to find or expensive for an NPT tap and die fo that size. Regular thread and some sort of either o-ring, or loctite on the thread, to hold to the pressure?
3. I guess same issue with the inner thread of the sleeve like 2.

Thoughts?

[DavidBarkey]

https://www.princessauto.com/en/power-b ... Id=1259001

FYI
Does anyone know who's valves Case used ?? I know they did not make there own pumps or motors , I assume they didn't make the valves either .


Dave

[thebuildist]

Thinking about how I'd do this, there are three items that I see a little more difficult for the home machinist.

1. The location of the hole in the valve housing, so that it fits precisely aligned with the inner hole where the sleeve tip + o-ring goes in.
2. What kind of thread goes on both the inner surface of the hole, and the outside of the sleeve, and what tool to use to put the thread on. So, NPT thread? Hard to find or expensive for an NPT tap and die fo that size. Regular thread and some sort of either o-ring, or loctite on the thread, to hold to the pressure?
3. I guess same issue with the inner thread of the sleeve like 2.

Thoughts?

You make some well-thought out points.

For item one, speaking in terms of the orientation when the valve is installed on the tractor: for the fore/aft location, you ought to be able to center up to the precise centerpoint betweent the work ports. For the height orientation, you ought to be able to center up on the centerline of the spool. I think both of those should be doable.

For items two and three, I suppose the exact thread chosen isn't as important as the fact that the thread must match between the sleeve and the valve body. I'm guessing that the Case factory thread is an SAE Oring Boss #10, based on the dimensions from Jancoe. For this application, I think SAE Oring boss is better than NPT, as it puts less stress on the valve body female thread. NPT is probably OK? But screwing in that tapered fitting could conceivably crack the valve body, which would be catastrophic. The Oring boss route has basically zero chance of doing any damage to the valve body..

For the output side of the PB sleeve, instead of cutting internal threads, I figure you could save yourself some work and save buying an extra adapter by just making the PB sleeve's output fitting a male JIC #10. At least I THINK it's a JIC #10.

For cutting the internal threads on the valve body, SAE #10 is 7/8-14. I probably don't have that tap size on hand, as my larger size taps are hit-and-miss. But it looks like it's only about $14 on Amazon, so that's not too bad.

Any external threads I'd single-point cut on the lathe.

I'm looking forward to giving this a try!

Bob

[DavidBarkey]

Bob I would say you are right on the money. ?? do you have or access to a mill, an angle plate , edge finder , ect.

Dave

[thebuildist]

Yes, all of the above.

It ought to be pretty straightforward once I get around to it.

I think I'll just machine my own sleeve to Jancoe's measurements and then machine the valve hole to match that.

Bob

[DavidBarkey]

Yes, all of the above.

It ought to be pretty straightforward once I get around to it.

I think I'll just machine my own sleeve to Jancoe's measurements and then machine the valve hole to match that.

Bob

Are you a hobbiest , general or tool and die ??

Dave

[thebuildist]

Strictly hobbyist. I got my first lathe 6 or 7 years ago. But my machinist work is informed by years of experience working with my hands. I welded my first tandem bike together when I was in 5th grade. Since then I've worked in industrial maintenance, auto maintenance, aircraft maintenance, and I have a degree in industrial engineering.

So I'm not a complete babe in the woods. But I'd be lying to imply that I'm a master machinist.

If you want to see my brain and hands (and mouth) in action, check out my loader build series on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZLoPwkHM_0 There are several machining sequences along the way.

I have the first 4 videos complete, the 5th video will be about --you guessed it-- the hydraulics.

So some time AFTER I get the hydraulics installed, I'll release video 5 about "how I installed the hydraulics." Hopefully.

I imagine the final video in the series will be attaching the bucket and forks to their respective quickattach plates, then designing/building the counterweight, and some final testing/demonstration/closing comments.

I'd like to think I can have the hydro work complete by early January, and everything else complete by about April or May, in time to do some meaningful spring driveway/landscaping/dirt work that is long overdue.

Sorry. I know that's way more than you asked for!

Bob

[DavidBarkey]

Bob . That explains a lot . It is easier when know the others skill set . It is hard to know how much to or not to dumb down comments .

Dave