Snow caster throwing distance

[DavidBarkey]

My auger is as tight to the back as can get . About an 1/8" gap . I use a plastic guide to take up the slack in the chain . We are getting some mild weather right now which is helping to settle the snow in the back yard . We have 2x4 welded protection fence for the birds and garden . So i can count the 4" squares down form the top to tell how much snow pack we have . Right now it has settle from just under 48" down to 36" .

[DavidBarkey]

This is the RPM / hour meter I bought . It is a little thing , but was less than $30 delivered taxes in . Works well and was simple to install . I checked the RPMs . Idle 1850 / Full throttle 3150 / Caster blowing heavy snow 3000. Not losing rpm at the engine . So I am going to try upping the jack shaft sprocket again 20 teeth .

[myerslawnandgarden]

image.png
This is the RPM / hour meter I bought . It is a little thing , but was less than $30 delivered taxes in . Works well and was simple to install . I checked the RPMs . Idle 1850 / Full throttle 3150 / Caster blowing heavy snow 3000. Not losing rpm at the engine . So I am going to try upping the jack shaft sprocket again 20 teeth .

Dave, I would suggest getting the no-load engine speed up to the recommended 3600 rpm. Just a small amount of load that drags the rpm down from there creates a dramatic decrease in the snowcaster performance. I don't know what horsepower you have available, but my primary snow removal tractor is 18 hp and I would not even consider going larger that the standard 16T sprocket as I often find the 18hp can't keep the rpms up even with that load. In my opinion, larger jackshaft sprockets are only beneficial on the 21-23hp models.

As you mention, you're not currently losing rpm at the engine, 150 is the standard governor droop.

Bob

[propane1]

image.png
This is the RPM / hour meter I bought . It is a little thing , but was less than $30 delivered taxes in . Works well and was simple to install . I checked the RPMs . Idle 1850 / Full throttle 3150 / Caster blowing heavy snow 3000. Not losing rpm at the engine . So I am going to try upping the jack shaft sprocket again 20 teeth .

They are a neat thing to have on a tractor. I’ve have one in my Ford LGT 165 for 20 years. Rpm, hours and flashes when you need to do and oil change and service at every 25 hours.

Be curious to see how it works at 20 tooth sprocket. She must have great hp.

Noel

[DavidBarkey]

image.png
This is the RPM / hour meter I bought . It is a little thing , but was less than $30 delivered taxes in . Works well and was simple to install . I checked the RPMs . Idle 1850 / Full throttle 3150 / Caster blowing heavy snow 3000. Not losing rpm at the engine . So I am going to try upping the jack shaft sprocket again 20 teeth .

Dave, I would suggest getting the no-load engine speed up to the recommended 3600 rpm. Just a small amount of load that drags the rpm down from there creates a dramatic decrease in the snowcaster performance. I don't know what horsepower you have available, but my primary snow removal tractor is 18 hp and I would not even consider going larger that the standard 16T sprocket as I often find the 18hp can't keep the rpms up even with that load. In my opinion, larger jackshaft sprockets are only beneficial on the 21-23hp models.

As you mention, you're not currently losing rpm at the engine, 150 is the standard governor droop.

Bob

Bob always welcome and respect your input Bob , thanks . Here is what I have in it for hp to bring you up to speed .
This engine is a low hours BG genny engine (Emerald 4000 RV genny ) .I reworked and upped the governor RPM to 3100 . 3.250 bore x 3.00 stroke . with B43m heads Making 140 psi compression . New the compression is only 120 psi . I est. about 22 -23 hp and more torque than the 24 hp with the high compression heads . I really don't want to up the governor with the higher compression (engine longevity ) . With the stock pump and and the blower on it I have yet to lug this engine down at all .

I have an 18 tooth sprocket on it now . I have a 20 and 24 tooth on order (22 not available through this supplier ). I keep #40 bulk chain in stock in my shop .

[DavidBarkey]

image.png
This is the RPM / hour meter I bought . It is a little thing , but was less than $30 delivered taxes in . Works well and was simple to install . I checked the RPMs . Idle 1850 / Full throttle 3150 / Caster blowing heavy snow 3000. Not losing rpm at the engine . So I am going to try upping the jack shaft sprocket again 20 teeth .

They are a neat thing to have on a tractor. I’ve have one in my Ford LGT 165 for 20 years. Rpm, hours and flashes when you need to do and oil change and service at every 25 hours.

Be curious to see how it works at 20 tooth sprocket. She must have great hp.

Noel

Thats the Genny engine short block I reworked with the heads and stuff off the old 16hp . It make more power than the P220 in Frankie ! I would like to do another one but need a donner motor for all the peripherals.

[myerslawnandgarden]

image.png
This is the RPM / hour meter I bought . It is a little thing , but was less than $30 delivered taxes in . Works well and was simple to install . I checked the RPMs . Idle 1850 / Full throttle 3150 / Caster blowing heavy snow 3000. Not losing rpm at the engine . So I am going to try upping the jack shaft sprocket again 20 teeth .

Dave, I would suggest getting the no-load engine speed up to the recommended 3600 rpm. Just a small amount of load that drags the rpm down from there creates a dramatic decrease in the snowcaster performance. I don't know what horsepower you have available, but my primary snow removal tractor is 18 hp and I would not even consider going larger that the standard 16T sprocket as I often find the 18hp can't keep the rpms up even with that load. In my opinion, larger jackshaft sprockets are only beneficial on the 21-23hp models.

As you mention, you're not currently losing rpm at the engine, 150 is the standard governor droop.

Bob

Bob always welcome and respect your input Bob , thanks . Here is what I have in it for hp to bring you up to speed .
This engine is a low hours BG genny engine (Emerald 4000 RV genny ) .I reworked and upped the governor RPM to 3100 . 3.250 bore x 3.00 stroke . with B43m heads Making 140 psi compression . New the compression is only 120 psi . I est. about 22 -23 hp and more torque than the 24 hp with the high compression heads . I really don't want to up the governor with the higher compression (engine longevity ) . With the stock pump and and the blower on it I have yet to lug this engine down at all .

I have an 18 tooth sprocket on it now . I have a 20 and 24 tooth on order (22 not available through this supplier ). I keep #40 bulk chain in stock in my shop .

Dave,

That may work well for you then. As long as you have the horsepower and torque to maintain 3000 rpm, the larger sprockets should get the auger speed back where it belongs. You won't believe the difference.

Running a standard setup at 3000 rpm would be similar to having one of the early casters with the 6.5" jackshaft pulley. I used one one time and sai never again, it was nearly useless compared to the 6" pulley. Amazing what a small difference in auger speed makes in performance.

Bob

[DavidBarkey]

@myerslawnandgarden Bob I think I have an early one . My pulley is 6.5 " with the belt running at 6" dia. and running lower RpM , no wounder it won't throw that far .

[MattA]

Dave if your replacing the pulley, get one that can accept A and B size belts.

[DavidBarkey]

Dave if your replacing the pulley, get one that can accept A and B size belts.

I am going to try the sprocket first and see how it is . New pulley means new belt size and buying more belts . I already have a couple of spares of the size that on it .