Picked up the Kwik-Way loader.

[MattA]

It was nice of Case to provide mounting tabs on the rear axle for the subframe .

Always thought those were to mount a sleeve hitch.

[DavidBarkey]

It was nice of Case to provide mounting tabs on the rear axle for the subframe .

Always thought those were to mount a sleeve hitch.

Yes they are , but sure are convenient place to mount other stuff . I have torsional rods bolted from there to the frame on Frankie to stabilise the rear axle on the frame under load .

[propane1]

It was nice of Case to provide mounting tabs on the rear axle for the subframe .

Always thought those were to mount a sleeve hitch.

Yes they are , but sure are convenient place to mount other stuff . I have torsional rods bolted from there to the frame on Frankie to stabilise the rear axle on the frame under load .

Could you explain torsional rods Dave. And maybe post a few pictures.

Noel

[Harry]

Very interested in your thread Noel. The two post lift is an excellent way to look under the GT take measurements for your project. Harry

[DavidBarkey]

Always thought those were to mount a sleeve hitch.

Yes they are , but sure are convenient place to mount other stuff . I have torsional rods bolted from there to the frame on Frankie to stabilise the rear axle on the frame under load .

Could you explain torsional rods Dave. And maybe post a few pictures.

Noel

This them . They go from the loader subframe cross bar to the sleeve hitch mount . With the loader on the front , weights hanging off the 3pt hitch witch is mounted to the back of the transaxle . They take some stress off the frame to top of transaxle under load , be it push pull or lifting . The cab mounts at the top of the loader frame in the front and to the trans axle with the 3 pt bracket at the rear . Under load I could see the door alignment moving too much before I installed them . Make note , that with the frame being reenforced as well .

[Harry]

That’s a terrific idea David. My loaders are all the 600 series GT’s, except for the off color one that will be sold. A great engineering Harry

[propane1]

Yes they are , but sure are convenient place to mount other stuff . I have torsional rods bolted from there to the frame on Frankie to stabilise the rear axle on the frame under load .

Could you explain torsional rods Dave. And maybe post a few pictures.

Noel

20200418_103901.jpg
This them . They go from the loader subframe cross bar to the sleeve hitch mount . With the loader on the front , weights hanging off the 3pt hitch witch is mounted to the back of the transaxle . They take some stress off the frame to top of transaxle under load , be it push pull or lifting . The cab mounts at the top of the loader frame in the front and to the trans axle with the 3 pt bracket at the rear . Under load I could see the door alignment moving too much before I installed them . Make note , that with the frame being reenforced as well .

Thanks Dave.

Noel

[MattA]

Could ask @thebuildist how his loader mounts to his 4020PS.

[propane1]

Some more headway on the mounting of the belly frame. All mounted on, not finished thou, but we have so we can now take the loader off and on, so we can move the tractor.
Now, we are not engineers or metal fabricators. So it’s on the way we figured. I’m sure there are different ways. Is all bolted to the tractor, no welding. So it undercarriage can come off and the snowthrower reinstalled, if we want.
The rear points for a sleeve hitch are still useable if we want.

Noel.

[thebuildist]

That's very well done in my opinion. It looks plenty strong, it can be removed without a trace. Nice job.

One of my design goals was that I wanted to keep the mower deck installed. That meant that the transverse crossmember, which pretty much has to go underneath the factory frame rails, had to be pretty small/low profile, to make room for the deck to raise and lower and not hit it.

image.png (95.8 KiB) Viewed 7145 times

but to do that, the frame rails themselves had to be strong enough to support the weight and torque of that crossmember. So I took some 1/4" thick 4"x2" angle iron and carefully cut and drilled frame rail "skins" that I bolted and plug-welded "scab style" onto each outer side of the factory rails. That took the factory rails from being about 150 thou. thickness to being over 3/8 thickness. And it gave me a nice beefy horizontal flange that the crossmember bolts are hanging from.
Here's a look at the driver's side frame rail right at the base of the steering tower:

It preserves the factory look and feel, which was important to me. And like your subframe, the loader structure can be completely removed for maintenance. Which I've already had to do once. Total pain, but doable.

So I took a route that was more involved and more labor intensive. But yours looks great.

Bob