EZ clutches

[ras101]

So, still working my Ez clutch on my 448! taken it down now several times to rebuild - hopefully a saga soon of not what to do...

In my ongoing search for info, pics etc. I ended up on Casegardentractorparts.com (not hard as Bob is one of my go-to suppliers) looking for EZ clutch parts, etc. Looking through Bob's offerings I opened the Onan full clutch assembly (still think that had I done that before , even at slightly over $500 it would have made my life so much easier). The thing that really popped though was the photo of the whole assembly - the best I have seen anywhere on the web. I hope Bob does not mind me uploading it here - Also Bob has each and every piece for sale too. Thank you Bob..

[ras101]

Of particular note is the newer fork and CAM. The older cams were cast and profiled the newer are machined.

In previous posts I talked about pulley sizes - there seemed to be two sizes. I was assured that they were equivalent... well I rebuilt the smaller size pulley thinking it might be the latest...totally cleaned, removed the friction disk and replaced, new bearing etc. Then found that the bearing was so loose in the pulley that the pulley moved independent and no way would that work!
So now down a new friction disk and a discarded pulley too. ... Still have two pulleys though that are same shape an size,etc. but only one new unused too. Right now I will clean (using brake cleaner) and reuse an existing pulley /friction disk, etc. +
Temps tomorrow in WNY are supposed to be in the 50s so I will be rebuilding my PTO! stay tuned...

[CaseIngersollNE]

If your pulley is not very worn some have used thin layer of Loctite or JB Weld type products, as long as bearings are new/good it should not take much friction/resistance to have the path of choice for rotation turn to the bearings as least resistance. Most the time we just clean the face of the front lip that bearings face up too and do not clean the part where the outer races mate, unless they are real bad. And just a light coat of oil so the races do not rust TO the housing and helps a little with install. PS think BoB waxed that assembly so it looks like "silver plated" lol

[myerslawnandgarden]

If your pulley is not very worn some have used thin layer of Loctite or JB Weld type products, as long as bearings are new/good it should not take much friction/resistance to have the path of choice for rotation turn to the bearings as least resistance. Most the time we just clean the face of the front lip that bearings face up too and do not clean the part where the outer races mate, unless they are real bad. And just a light coat of oil so the races do not rust TO the housing and helps a little with install. PS think BoB waxed that assembly so it looks like "silver plated" lol

Through the past years there have been quite a few times when the bore of a new pulley was too big, you would start to install the bearing, it would go in easily and fall right out. It's not off much, maybe a thou or two. I go around the middle of the ID in the bore of the pulley with a center punch about every 1/4 inch and that seems to correct the fit, doesn't take much to keep the race from turning as CaseIngersollNE mentions. Green loctite is a good choice in addition to this procedure until time to remove the bearing for replacement, then some heat is required.

Bob

[ras101]

If your pulley is not very worn some have used thin layer of Loctite or JB Weld type products, as long as bearings are new/good it should not take much friction/resistance to have the path of choice for rotation turn to the bearings as least resistance. Most the time we just clean the face of the front lip that bearings face up too and do not clean the part where the outer races mate, unless they are real bad. And just a light coat of oil so the races do not rust TO the housing and helps a little with install. PS think BoB waxed that assembly so it looks like "silver plated" lol

Through the past years there have been quite a few times when the bore of a new pulley was too big, you would start to install the bearing, it would go in easily and fall right out. It's not off much, maybe a thou or two. I go around the middle of the ID in the bore of the pulley with a center punch about every 1/4 inch and that seems to correct the fit, doesn't take much to keep the race from turning as CaseIngersollNE mentions. Green loctite is a good choice in addition to this procedure until time to remove the bearing for replacement, then some heat is required.

Bob

Bob, that is a great idea! I shall have to try that and see if I can reclaim the pulley and friction disc for a spare..

Ray

[CaseIngersollNE]

Yes have done that too Bob works well as said does not take much!

[ras101]

So yesterday we had a 57 degree day!!! and I managed to get outside and really start work on the PTO. Got a few pics too and found a neat trick when assembling that helped me a lot!

Still not completely satisfied though I can/do get the 3 clicks that everyone talks about it just seems a little "off" still. I did notice, this time that the PO had "worked" on the fork - he had changed the fork ends - yeah those ends that contact the cams. That explained the brand new short fork without "ends" that was in the spares pack he gave me. It would seem he had bought the wrong fork (short vs long) and took parts from that and fitted (riveted) those to the old fork he wanted to replace? Did he get it right - I don't know but other things he has done tend to tell me otherwise.

So back to having assembled the PTO again and set the gap, yet again, still not happy! I know I am a perfectionist by heart so going to tear it down again (can put these PTO's together in my sleep now!) I have an older style fork (that I got from Ebay as part of a Kohlar clutch)and I am going to fit that instead! - see you on the "other side". Just a few pics

Oh what was my revelation? When assembling the wavy washers, pulley and cams then trying to fit that last washer, yeah you know the one... is problematic at best. My solution was a strap wrench around the last pulley and the tower that pulled the assembly tight and gave full access to the hub for that last washer - no more struggling!

Stay tuned...

Ray

[ras101]

Well, even after all this I am STILL not happy!!! Yeah the clutch seems to work, but it does not SNAP into place either, even now. So what next?

I am sure now that the PO has played with the fork!! In fact I know he did. Yeah I have another fork that is an earlier version but how many times do I do this? I have new wavy washers and shims, I have rebuilt the pulley completely, I have new bearings throughout,I'm using new style cams,and even a new hub, Have new cupped washers too, etc, etc.

The whole assembly has been built and checked now with feeler gauges at least three times and yet I am NOT satisfied so what now?

I have just bought the bullet and ordered a COMPLETE PTO, yeah I know the cost is over $500 , from Bob at Casegardentractors.com to replace the whole dam thing! not wasting any more time. Bobs offering provides an assembly that completely works together and has the latest parts too.. It's either that or change to an electric clutch..

Can you tell I am frustrated!

Ray

[THEOTHERHALF]

hello Ray, sorry to read your still having a problem with this, only thing I wonder about is everything before the point where clutch arm does its job, no expert here by any means but thinking maybe something is bent and not giving full travel. I enjoy following along and reading your postings, thank you for letting us view what your up too, case - Ingersoll is my favorite garden tractors looking forward to the aha moment Kyle

[ras101]

hello Ray, sorry to read your still having a problem with this, only thing I wonder about is everything before the point where clutch arm does its job, no expert here by any means but thinking maybe something is bent and not giving full travel. I enjoy following along and reading your postings, thank you for letting us view what your up too, case - Ingersoll is my favorite garden tractors looking forward to the aha moment Kyle

Kyle, thanks for your kind words.

As far as the PTO in concerned I did check the linkage and did not notice any issues other than a worn out bush at the fork that I replaced when I started the rebuild. The fork has a lot of evidence though of PO tampering and looks like the PO replaced the fork ends at some point.

Ray