My Kohler K321 14HP rebuild thread

[Eugen]

I suppose I was lucky not having real experience with this. You saw pictures of the shop in the thread above, an old couple business, the wife does the front desk and the old guy does everything on the machines himself. When I said I want to go 0.010 under he said in a thick accent "bring the rod I measure and grind it perfect" All his tools appeared of high quality too, what I've seen on the desk were only Swiss Etalon micrometers. The rto od feels like glued to the crank, yet turns easily. No play of any kind.

Now I'm trying to find time start assembly. I'm a little worried that I miss something that someone who's done it before wouldn't.

Steve, anyone else, does it matter if the crank bearings are C3 or not? Because one of the original bearings is marked C3 and the other isn't, I'm wondering if all should be C3, or the C3 is meant for one of the positions. By definition C3 has more internal clearance, room for expansion due to heat. So I'm thinking that all bearings should really be C3 in the engine.

[ssmewing]

I suppose I was lucky not having real experience with this. You saw pictures of the shop in the thread above, an old couple business, the wife does the front desk and the old guy does everything on the machines himself. When I said I want to go 0.010 under he said in a thick accent "bring the rod I measure and grind it perfect" All his tools appeared of high quality too, what I've seen on the desk were only Swiss Etalon micrometers. The rto od feels like glued to the crank, yet turns easily. No play of any kind.

Now I'm trying to find time start assembly. I'm a little worried that I miss something that someone who's done it before wouldn't.

Steve, anyone else, does it matter if the crank bearings are C3 or not? Because one of the original bearings is marked C3 and the other isn't, I'm wondering if all should be C3, or the C3 is meant for one of the positions. By definition C3 has more internal clearance, room for expansion due to heat. So I'm thinking that all bearings should really be C3 in the engine.

I have never heard anyone ever have an issue with Kohler K main bearings. They are very overbuilt and it would take a special kind of failure to cause them to die or be damaged.

But, some people are very determined to do stupid things and that is one of the big challenges when you are bringing something back that others have owned.

That engine I just referenced is a clear example of a determined hack who left his evidence of incompetence all over the tractor. I have found this more often than not.

But, I have morphed into the Hemlock Case Guy. And as such, I am the guy who gets tractors that the owner just says fix what needs fixing. That part is not that unusual. But, what I also get are tractors that either the owner or other mechanics have worked on to the point that the tractor has been completely quacked. These are tractors that are often purchased at auctions. Auction tractors are often very messed up.

I got a 4020PS for $300. That was auction bought and then given up on and then I got. One of many things I can tell you is that if you bend a 1/4" hydraulic hose far enough to kink it, that kink remains on the inside even though the outside looks perfectly normal.

[Timj]

I suppose I was lucky not having real experience with this. You saw pictures of the shop in the thread above, an old couple business, the wife does the front desk and the old guy does everything on the machines himself. When I said I want to go 0.010 under he said in a thick accent "bring the rod I measure and grind it perfect" All his tools appeared of high quality too, what I've seen on the desk were only Swiss Etalon micrometers. The rto od feels like glued to the crank, yet turns easily. No play of any kind.

Now I'm trying to find time start assembly. I'm a little worried that I miss something that someone who's done it before wouldn't.

Steve, anyone else, does it matter if the crank bearings are C3 or not? Because one of the original bearings is marked C3 and the other isn't, I'm wondering if all should be C3, or the C3 is meant for one of the positions. By definition C3 has more internal clearance, room for expansion due to heat. So I'm thinking that all bearings should really be C3 in the engine.

I have never heard anyone ever have an issue with Kohler K main bearings. They are very overbuilt and it would take a special kind of failure to cause them to die or be damaged.

But, some people are very determined to do stupid things and that is one of the big challenges when you are bringing something back that others have owned.

That engine I just referenced is a clear example of a determined hack who left his evidence of incompetence all over the tractor. I have found this more often than not.

But, I have morphed into the Hemlock Case Guy. And as such, I am the guy who gets tractors that the owner just says fix what needs fixing. That part is not that unusual. But, what I also get are tractors that either the owner or other mechanics have worked on to the point that the tractor has been completely quacked. These are tractors that are often purchased at auctions. Auction tractors are often very messed up.

I got a 4020PS for $300. That was auction bought and then given up on and then I got. One of many things I can tell you is that if you bend a 1/4" hydraulic hose far enough to kink it, that kink remains on the inside even though the outside looks perfectly normal.

@ssmewing , when you're good at what you do, you are always the last one they come to, and you get the toughest jobs. Many times made worse by not coming to you to start with.

[Eugen]

First part to go in: crankshaft ball bearing. Then valve tappets, and camshaft with a 0.010 distancer shim to bring camshaft end play within spec (0.005-0.010).

Crankshaft next, timing marks aligned.

Was late and I too tired to go on.

[Eugen]

Question to the experienced rebuilders here or anyone who has rebuilt a k321

@ssmewing @SylvesterCalzone

I didn't keep track of which tappet was on intake and which on exhaust. Does it matter if I have possibly reversed them? Are they not the same?
Thanks

[ssmewing]

Question to the experienced rebuilders here or anyone who has rebuilt a k321

@ssmewing @SylvesterCalzone

I didn't keep track of which tappet was on intake and which on exhaust. Does it matter if I have possibly reversed them? Are they not the same?
Thanks

I will answer that as a teacher would. Look at the parts manual. If the part numbers are the same for both tappets you are good to go.

The main thing that you will possibly experience is the tappet settings for each is different and so your starting points could be way off.

[Eugen]

Ha! Thank you @ssmewing. Yes, same part number. This blog post made me wonder though:

http://adventureswithadeere.blogspot.co ... stall.html

See the base thickness difference?!

Glad to see it's inconsequential.

I have to say that the intake tappet has a "tighter" feel then the exhaust one. I'll leave them as they are.

[myerslawnandgarden]

Typically tappets and valve lifters are always reinstalled in the same position so that any wear patterns that have been set up with the camshaft lobes are still the same. It's likely not the end of the world if they've gotten mixed around for your K321.

Bob

[Eugen]

Thanks Bob, I could pull it out and go by feel and try the best fit but I don't see how this is likely to cause problems in the future.

[myerslawnandgarden]

Eugen,

Once they are mixed up there is no way to determine which one was in which hole other than a 50/50 chance. So not a time to worry about changing anything, just go with what you have.

Bob