JSinMO wrote: ↑Sat Aug 20, 2022 2:13 pm
I can’t help you with the dent I’m reading this and learning. But what about this attached to a 4 foot rod to a drill to hone it?DC9B37FA-FB0F-49A0-979D-FD6CDE02B837.png
I had thought about one of those hones, but other than a quick clean up, I think it would also enlarge the the entire diameter, and not take just the hump down. You would need some type of line bore. @Eugen is there damage to the outside of the cylinder that matches the inside?
deck's on, blades sharp, let's go it's time to mow
JSinMO wrote: ↑Sat Aug 20, 2022 2:13 pm
I can’t help you with the dent I’m reading this and learning. But what about this attached to a 4 foot rod to a drill to hone it?DC9B37FA-FB0F-49A0-979D-FD6CDE02B837.png
I had thought about one of those hones, but other than a quick clean up, I think it would also enlarge the the entire diameter, and not take just the hump down. You would need some type of line bore.
@Eugen is there damage to the outside of the cylinder that matches the inside?
Must push out dent first then hone enough to clean up bore . A smooth bore is more important than a the size . The seals will forgive a little as long as the bore is smooth .
JSinMO wrote: ↑Sat Aug 20, 2022 2:13 pm
I can’t help you with the dent I’m reading this and learning. But what about this attached to a 4 foot rod to a drill to hone it?DC9B37FA-FB0F-49A0-979D-FD6CDE02B837.png
I had thought about one of those hones, but other than a quick clean up, I think it would also enlarge the the entire diameter, and not take just the hump down. You would need some type of line bore.
@Eugen is there damage to the outside of the cylinder that matches the inside?
DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sat Aug 20, 2022 3:13 pm
Must push out dent first then hone enough to clean up bore . A smooth bore is more important than a the size . The seals will forgive a little as long as the bore is smooth .
Yes, that's my point about the hone. I got an engine cylinder hone like Tim pointed to but I think it's too rough. I'm actually thinking the inner surface of the cylinder is smooth now, maybe just dented in. Or scratched by the piston. Maybe I'll try to look at it with the bore scope.
Maybe just reach in with a 2x4 with 600 grit sandpaper stapled to it and rub rub rub.
DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sat Aug 20, 2022 3:13 pm
Must push out dent first then hone enough to clean up bore . A smooth bore is more important than a the size . The seals will forgive a little as long as the bore is smooth .
Yes, that's my point about the hone. I got an engine cylinder hone like Tim pointed to but I think it's too rough. I'm actually thinking the inner surface of the cylinder is smooth now, maybe just dented in. Or scratched by the piston. Maybe I'll try to look at it with the bore scope.
Maybe just reach in with a 2x4 with 600 grit sandpaper stapled to it and rub rub rub.
just get finer stones . Use the course quickly to make sure high spot s is gone then switch to fine stone to make sure you have nice surface . Unlike an engine you do not want a cross hatch . Nice smooth surface .
The more I consider it, the more I think you might have had the right idea in the beginning: clean up the grooves in the original piston, put new seals in it, and put it all back together. It seems like the rod itself is locked from rotating, right? You already have a worn spot in the piston that corresponds to the out-of-round spot in the cylinder. If it were me, I think I'd 1. Clean up the grooves on the piston to give consistent width to the seals. 2. Use something like a palm sander or a DA air sander to sand down the worn/shiny spots on the piston, just enough to give it .010 clearance from the dented area. Just enough that it can slide past the dented area without further metal on metal galling. 3. Mount the piston on the rod, being sure it's rotated/clocked to its original position on the rod so that the sanded down spot lines up with the dent. 4. Install the new seals on the piston and gland. 5. Re-assemble.
I think if you go too far down the rabbit hole you run the chance of further damaging what is currently a damaged but useable part. I personally would be inclined to just smooth it a bit, put it back the way I found it, and see if it doesn't give 10 more years of acceptable service.
My 2 cents' worth.
Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
Piston looks good , That old tank should do it . Pull the shraider valve out of the top and fill with water . . That will push out any left over fart gas and make safe to cut apart .
Bob made a great point about the rod and piston locked in position. It was not something I thought about and no matter what method is used that will not change.
Spike188 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 21, 2022 9:28 am
Bob made a great point about the rod and piston locked in position. It was not something I thought about and no matter what method is used that will not change.
The dent on the piston and cylinder were aligned but I took the piston off the rod so if I don't fix the dent on the cylinder I'd have to align them perfectly again.
Had to take the piston off the rod to clean up the grooves. Now that we're going this route I may as well give a good try fixing the cylinder. A challenge that'll bring a good break to my otherwise boring life
Have another piece of good news. The NOS seal kits I got from Israel were so old that the seals that otherwise are supposed to be flexible crumbled at the littlest attempt to bend them on a mock install in the gland. Told the ebay seller the situation and he quickly gave me a refund even before asking for one. There are still honest people in the world and it's nice to see that.