Rebuilding my custom tie rod
Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 11:41 am
In re-inforcing the frame and front axle on my 4020PS I chose to move the steering tie rod to behind the front axle. That puts the relatively delicate tie rod in a more sheltered/safer location.
In order to do that I had to have bends in it to route it back around/behind the vertical path of the PTO belt.
It's been like that for most of a year at this point and I'm a little dissatisfied with it. On left hand turns in particular, it feels like I can see the left wheel shimmying inward/outward. I think that the 5/8" rod, once it's had the fairly dramatic bend in it, is too flexible. And the 1/2" ball/socket rod ends are too light duty for these front wheels once I have 1,000 lbs hanging from the loader.
I originally made the whole steering/axle alteration from drawings, trying to be sure I have clearance for tie-rod travel in all positions of the axle and all positions of the spindle. I can see now that I have more clearance than I really need. A thicker tie-rod will work fine, and it doesn't need such a drastic bend angle.
Lastly, now that I know the precise length of the tie rod, I no longer need practically any adjustment range. The length of the rod itself can be permanently set, and the heim joints on the end can be screwed a half turn tighter or looser to give a bit of adjustment.
So I'm replacing my tie rod with 3/4" rod. I'm using much heavier duty 3/4" heim joints, which can be greased as well. Those should give years of service.
I began by creating a telescoped center joint. One side has a journal turned down to 9/16", the other is drilled 9/16 where that journal can slide in. That let's me precisely adjust the length of the overall rod, as well as twisting that joint to ensure that the bends in both ends are perfectly aligned in the same plane.
I chucked the first side in the lathe and threaded it, and then screwed on the first heim joint. Then I heated the rod up right next to the heim joint and bent it to an approximate angle. After confirming on the tractor that that angle can work, I bent the other just like it.
Then I had to turn some bushings to align the 3/4" hole in the heim swivel around the 1/2" bolt that will attach it to the steering arm.
Then I put the two pieces together and adjust them to get their length and alignment finalized, using the original tie rod as the template.
Lastly I welded it, sanded it smooth, and gave it a coat of paint.
Much stouter now, no wiggle at all on the left front wheel.
Bob
In order to do that I had to have bends in it to route it back around/behind the vertical path of the PTO belt.
I originally made the whole steering/axle alteration from drawings, trying to be sure I have clearance for tie-rod travel in all positions of the axle and all positions of the spindle. I can see now that I have more clearance than I really need. A thicker tie-rod will work fine, and it doesn't need such a drastic bend angle.
Lastly, now that I know the precise length of the tie rod, I no longer need practically any adjustment range. The length of the rod itself can be permanently set, and the heim joints on the end can be screwed a half turn tighter or looser to give a bit of adjustment.
So I'm replacing my tie rod with 3/4" rod. I'm using much heavier duty 3/4" heim joints, which can be greased as well. Those should give years of service.
I began by creating a telescoped center joint. One side has a journal turned down to 9/16", the other is drilled 9/16 where that journal can slide in. That let's me precisely adjust the length of the overall rod, as well as twisting that joint to ensure that the bends in both ends are perfectly aligned in the same plane.
Bob
. Treat them with respect and don't do something your not suppose to and you will live a long happy life . Stray from the path and you will get burned or see them blow up .
yep, I'm beginning to get see the picture 
to dig an extension to the shop under the lawn or so 