Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

What type of wood would I use to replace the wood floor in my 12x6.5 trailer. Planks are starting to get a little soft.

Noel

I salvaged some pressure treated 2'X12' from a pool deck and have them in a pile for future projects. I see ads on the local C/L wanting some to come and remove their deck. That's how I came about the pile I have now. Just a thought and cost effective!

Keep the Peace
Harry

My 8 x 20 has treated decking like yours and has held up well for 15 years. Trailer mainly hauls pipe and small equipment.
When I replaced the deck on my backhoe trailer I bought some white oak from a local logger. He had sawed it a little over 2" thick. Soaked it with linseed oil. Very HD and durable, probably thicker than you need.

Stay away from the new brown PT. . It contain copper sulphate and when when causes electolises with all metals except hot dipped galvanized and stainless . That is why the "deck screws " are ceramic coated and Nails are hot dipped galvy. Cedar is too weak . Around here the wood of choise is Tamarack . It is very tough and rot resistant like cedar.

Tim is onto something there. A commercial product would probably just have a CCA treated 2x8 or perhaps 2x10.

(I don't know what you call them up there because you guys refuse to use your Queen's imperial measurements. I mean we fought a war with the British royalty but at least we have the decency to use normal measurements! )

Those treated lumber boards hold up okay but any genuine hardwood is going to last you extra years. Now for many of us lasting 15 or 20 years and might as well be forever... But that is your choices on wood.

Having said all of the above, if it were me I would just get some treated 2x8s.

Bob

Yes, most manufacturers set up their products for use of dimensional lumber. Readily available, easy to work with, but just treated pine. Thicker lumber sometimes won't fit or is a pain to make fit. The issue is if you have an available, cost effective alternative.
The only issue I had with the rough sawn was shrinking because it hadn't been dried.

I was gonna plank the various ash trees I cut down for the trailer and shop work surface, ash being a hard wood, not the best for wet areas but still. Then said why don't we use the ash for hardwood floor when we build the addition? yes honey, great idea! hehe

thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Aug 02, 2022 8:37 am (I don't know what you call them up there because you guys refuse to use your Queen's imperial measurements. I mean we fought a war with the British royalty but at least we have the decency to use normal measurements! )

Bob

Actually Bob, this is how crazy the whole situation with measurements is. In construction and lumber people use feet and inches, so we buy 2x4s and 2x6s and 2x8s and so on. Property lots areas feetxfeet or acres, but highway distances kilometres. Person height, mostly feet/inches. Oven temperatures always F, but weather and ambient temperature Celsius. Food weights is both lbs and kg, but in recipes it's cups and ounces. Volume for gas at the station is always litres, but other tech fluids like engine oil is both litres and gallons.

The silver lining is that we get to use our brains constantly when dealing with some of these measurements. They say a used brain will age slower.

Wow! I'm impressed. I long ago got pretty good with the 25.4 factor. But Celsius to Fahrenheit I just have to google it. I guess it would sharpen me up to live there!

I presume you do human weight in "Stones" ?

Bob

Oh no, I cannot convert between F and C, I always forget if it's times 5 plus 9 or the other way around. My mind got used to F for baking, as we bake sourdough bread for years. I'm good with F at freezing temps also, but not the detailed differences of ambient temperature, there I can "feel" what 18C is, or 25C, or 32C. You tell me 85F and I'm not sure if it's comfortable or hot or cold for a t-shirt

Stones are reserved for the kidney Bob!