Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

If anyone cares to check it out, I'm filming a series on building and adding a loader to a Case GT. (late model 4020PS)

I currently have 3 of the what will be either 5 or 6 videos completed. The next video will cover the actual steel structure, and I expect to have that work done later this week, so that video out in a couple weeks or thereabout.

Questions/comments are welcome here, especially as the YouTube viewers are mostly unfamiliar with CCI.

Bob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZLoPwk ... TKYswXu40K

Thank you Bob for joining our little place and for sharing! I will watch with interest!

Welcome Bob, good to have you here. Watched a few minutes of your first video, can't wait to sit and watch them when I have time to enjoy. nice 4020.
Tim

I've almost finished part one and am enjoying it. Your attention to detail and the ability to explain it all is quite astounding.

One question, What is the reason for using the bronze bushing? - are they superior in this application to other solutions?

Bob - I've only been able to watch a little of part 1, but very much looking forward to watching more! Thanks for bringing us along.

Chad

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Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Jul 28, 2021 12:39 pm I've almost finished part one and am enjoying it. Your attention to detail and the ability to explain it all is quite astounding.

One question, What is the reason for using the bronze bushing? - are they superior in this application to other solutions?

Great question!

Of the available options (bare steel on steel, some kind of bushing, or full-on cone or roller bearing) I figured that the bushing was the best option.

The bearings can carry heavier load and last longer, but the cost and hassle and physical size just rules them out.

Bushings should wear better than bare steel on steel, and more importantly they're easily replaceable down the road when they do wear out.

Believe it or not, I used Ebay for research. I simply typed in "tractor steering spindle bearings bushings" and found that oil impregnated bronze were used in this application by several manufacturers.

I figure if it works for them, it should work for me.

Bob

Great practical way of doing it. I did a little research this afternoon and indeed it's the better choice. Nicely done!

Chad wrote: ↑Wed Jul 28, 2021 7:03 pm Bob - I've only been able to watch a little of part 1, but very much looking forward to watching more! Thanks for bringing us along.

Chad

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Thanks Chad!

ÀH guy wrote: ↑Mon Jul 26, 2021 10:24 pm Welcome Bob, good to have you here. Watched a few minutes of your first video, can't wait to sit and watch them when I have time to enjoy. nice 4020.
Tim

Thanks Tim!

Working on video part 4 now (loader structure build) Here's a sneek peak for all you insiders:

Final steps will be hydraulics hookup (valve, lines, and reservoir mods if necessary) and after that modifying the attachments (bucket and forks) to fit the detachable adapter on the front of the loader. Maybe one big video, or two smaller ones, hard to say from here.

As you can see in the photos, the loader itself is detachable and will "hang" from what is essentially an oversized steel sawhorse when not in use. Drive under the sawhorse, attach the back of the loader to the sawhorse, pull two pins, undo 4 hydraulic disconnects, and back out from under the loader. Installation will be the reverse.

I'm getting pretty pumped, the closer it gets.

I'll go ahead and answer the obvious question: There are several holes in the flat bar straps that are reinforcing the bend in the loader arms. Those holes serve no purpose: the repurposed steel flat bars that I had on hand had some pre-punched holes in them. There was no structural benefit to filling the holes in, so I just left them there. Now that I look at them with fresh eyes they look cheesy. I may go back and fill them in just for aesthetics.