Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Long story short is the tractor will run for about an hour then starts dying and you need choke to get it back .
Work done this summer chasing this problem . Checked and clean fuel tank , checked fuel flow from tank, cleaned fuel cap ,new carb , rebuilt Magneto and placed plugs and wires . None fixed problem . Season over I now can spend time in my shop doing systematic diag.
Putting new belts on , the top rad hose spigot started leaking at tank . Removed rad , straighten tank from old impact damage and re-solder on spigot and new hose pieces . hood of 2 exhaust leaks in manifold and one in bottom of muffler are apparent . I have another muffler and welded patches on manifold to see if the exhaust build up is causing enough heat to vapour lock the fuel line to the carb . Pulled the rocker cover , made new gasket and set the valves , intakes were a little tight . Most likely from erosion due to unleaded fuel . I don't think it is enough to cause the problem . Needs an oil change and the pan is leaking . So out with the oil , drop the pan to find a crack in the corner and no sealer at the front and junctions . Again make new gasket . It is cheaper and quicker to buy a roll of gasket material and make my own . They are very simple gaskets and I have the hole punches . That is tomorrows job. Before this tractor (early 50s Farmall super A ) I had not worked anything that old . Learning lots of new things , its been fun .

Atmospheric vent in carburetor plugged some. Gas tank vent plugged some. Oil bath air filter cleaner plugged up. Loosing spark voltage. Carburetor frosting up.

Noel

I experienced almost the same issue with my 1953 Super H. It has the C164 engine. Basically the same design as what you have there just bigger displacement. It happened twice to me. The first time turned out to be the gasket between the carburetor and manifold failed and it was sucking air. Second time one of the bolts that hold the carburetor half’s together stripped, I assume from years of vibration, and again it was sucking air at that spot. In both instances the tractor would start fine and after working for awhile it would sputter and needed choke to keep running.
You said it has a new carburetor so I would assume that’s not the problem.

I know you patched the manifold but looking at the pictures it looks pretty rough. My guess is that’s where the problem may be. After getting warned up I’m wondering if an unseen crack on the intake side of the manifold is opening up causing the issue. Inside that hole on the face of the manifold where the intake and exhaust come together looks like a prime spot for an internal crack.

If you decide to replace the manifold you may want to recheck that engine size. The model A and Super A I believe both used the C113 engine and a Super C would be the C123 engine.

I can’t swear to it but I think the Super C C123 engine would bolt into an A so it may very well be a replacement engine. Not sure if the manifolds are the same between the C113 and C123. They may very well be the same head / block just punched out a bit for the Super C.

Let us know what you find.

I thought it was a C113 but it has C123 right on the block . All the parts I have bought for it so far said fit both Ih C113 and C123 . I was told by the owner that it is a Super A .
It appears to be a Super A with a Super C engine in it from what I can tell by descriptions of each. but I am no expert on this .

It’s definitely an A/Super A tractor. The Cub, A, and B all used the offset “cultivision” seating arrangement, with the B being the narrow front version. C, H, and M all had the operators platform in the center of the tractor.

I had to go back and look and the regular C also used the C113. So it makes sense the C123 would be the same block and head and fit right into an A and share a lot of parts.
It’ll be a handy little tractor again one you get the bugs worked out!

Well , the other day I did 2 hours going around in circles pulling my small offest disks in our garden with the Farmall . Never missed a beat . Now that I know that it is good , we ordered a new manifold , muffler, and steering box rebuild kit . But that won't be in until the first of next month . So we have a new Lawn Ornament. for a while . I will put it right next to the New Idea 329 Supersheller 2 row corn harvester / sheller that I am rebuilding for my favourite farmer . All the bearings are original and the sheller side is all non greaseable stamped steel flange bearing . This thing is from the sixties and is perfect for a small operation and allows him to split the harvest to fall and spring . Parts and labour will be under a grand Canuck . With perchase price is still under what they are going for for good one States side . And I get to play with something else new to me . Not many of these show up at an Auto shop or race track .

Sounds like fun! Glad you got it running good. I’m might be the only one but I’d love to see some pictures of that sheller!

Are you able to get parts for the tractor north of the border, or do they have to come from down here?

JSinMO wrote: ↑Wed Nov 06, 2024 7:56 pm Sounds like fun! Glad you got it running good. I’m might be the only one but I’d love to see some pictures of that sheller!

Are you able to get parts for the tractor north of the border, or do they have to come from down here?

Parts all come from the States but through an Ontario Vintage tractor parts dealer . I will take some pictures of it and as I tear it down to rebuild .

What was the trouble with why it didn’t run correctly ?

Noel

propane1 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 07, 2024 5:05 am What was the trouble with why it didn’t run correctly ?

Noel

It would run good for about an hour , then start to stumble and would only run with choke on . It appears that the exhaust leaks were building enough heat the fuel was vaporising in the fuel line running under the hood .

I needed to test the operation of the Corn Sheller , so the old Farmall Super A tractor was used . It took 10 minutes to clean the gunk off the pto shaft , there is nice paint under all that . I don't think it had ever been used . The old tractor ran the sheller just fine . That being said I was not towing it or was it actually picking and shelling anything on my lawn in front of the shop .

Which way dose the pto turn looking from the back of the tractor Dave. CW or CCW. Just curious. A Farmall Cub turns CCW.

Noel

propane1 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 27, 2024 6:20 am Which way dose the pto turn looking from the back of the tractor Dave. CW or CCW. Just curious. A Farmall Cub turns CCW.

Noel

I didn't pay attention , It all turned the right way so didn't think about it .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Nov 27, 2024 7:14 am

propane1 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 27, 2024 6:20 am Which way dose the pto turn looking from the back of the tractor Dave. CW or CCW. Just curious. A Farmall Cub turns CCW.

Noel

I didn't pay attention , It all turned the right way so didn't think about it .

I believe the Cub was the only Farmall with a ccw PTO rotation.

Sounds like the A is back up and running nice.

JSinMO wrote: ↑Wed Nov 27, 2024 7:36 pm

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Nov 27, 2024 7:14 am

propane1 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 27, 2024 6:20 am Which way dose the pto turn looking from the back of the tractor Dave. CW or CCW. Just curious. A Farmall Cub turns CCW.

Noel

I didn't pay attention , It all turned the right way so didn't think about it .

I believe the Cub was the only Farmall with a ccw PTO rotation.

Sounds like the A is back up and running nice.

To that I will have to take your word on it . Runns good and started right up after sitting out in the cold for a couple of weeks . Just waiting for the exhaust manifold , muffler , and steering box kit to arrive so I can finish and send it back .

After digging out from the snow , I fired up the old A . Cranked over a little slow , but fired right up . That old thing keeps surprising me . Drove it around and put in the shop to dry off . Parts are suppose to be here this weekend to finish it off .

They are surprisingly reliable and tough. Especially on a 6 volt system!

Got the new manifold assembly on . Now working on the steering box . Man you need to take a lot of stuff off before you can get it apart . Learnings all part of the fun .

Oh boy, you’re in deep now! I going to guess the gears are good but the seals are shot. I know it’s a little late now, and the owner may have already been doing this, but I’ve used corn head grease in the steering boxes before.
The seal on my Super H is bad but I really didn’t want to tear into the front bolster to get at it. I used John Deere combine corn head grease instead of oil. It’s thick enough it doesn’t run past the seal but thin enough to lubricant the gears.

@JSinMO Thats good to know . The upper bearing is shot . Water was in there above the gear oil . Not sure if it was getting in at the vent on top or the shaft seal . For the amount of water in there I would say both. I am going to pack grease behind the input seal to make sure . "Age" might be a contributing factor as well .

All that water and a bad bearing took its toll on the part of the shaft the top bearing rides on .Rest of shaft is ok , some ware you would expect . Tough steel but not hardened . Sooo weld it up , anneal and turn it down when cool . Forgot to take a pic after welding .

David, curious what electrode you welded the shaft with? One job a had way back was for a fabrication shop that did a lot repairs on mining equipment. The machine shop occasionally needed some shaft buildup before machining. I would ask the machinist what the shaft material was. Most of the time he had no idea. So I would use E7018 and put a heat blanket on it to cool slowly, then he would machine it. I believe you did a terrific repair. Harry

Harry wrote: ↑Wed Dec 11, 2024 7:35 am David, curious what electrode you welded the shaft with? One job a had way back was for a fabrication shop that did a lot repairs on mining equipment. The machine shop occasionally needed some shaft buildup before machining. I would ask the machinist what the shaft material was. Most of the time he had no idea. So I would use E7018 and put a heat blanket on it to cool slowly, then he would machine it. I believe you did a terrific repair. Harry

Thanks Harry . Small area , so I used my flux core mig with standard flux core wire . I think it is E71 something . Then heated it up with torch to red and let air cool . Still tough , but machineable with carbide tool . I am by no means an expert in this area , but know how to lay down a bead and then cut it off to get a new size .
@Harry How does flux core compare to 7018 ?

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Dec 11, 2024 7:46 am

Harry wrote: ↑Wed Dec 11, 2024 7:35 am David, curious what electrode you welded the shaft with? One job a had way back was for a fabrication shop that did a lot repairs on mining equipment. The machine shop occasionally needed some shaft buildup before machining. I would ask the machinist what the shaft material was. Most of the time he had no idea. So I would use E7018 and put a heat blanket on it to cool slowly, then he would machine it. I believe you did a terrific repair. Harry

Thanks Harry . Small area , so I used my flux core mig with standard flux core wire . I think it is E71 something . Then heated it up with torch to red and let air cool . Still tough , but machineable with carbide tool . I am by no means an expert in this area , but know how to lay down a bead and then cut it off to get a new size .
@Harry How does flux core compare to 7018 ?

Same good choice David. Harry

Thanks Harry .