Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

I do enjoy the "messing around in the shop" thread...

Thought I'd do my own, but of course that title is taken. Hope this can just collect all my projects in one post that will give me a nice timeline over time...

On today's episode... Mott work.

I got the mower a few years ago now. 2020 I think. Couple hundred bucks. It was thrashed, so I knew it needed a lot of work. Didn't really think it would be quite as bad as it was...

That involved around $2000 to $2500 in parts and machining. Got it back together late in 2022 I believe. Used it last year, and the beginning of this season. It's a great mower, but I had only dealt with the important issues then, and when I got in to an immovable rock earlier this season, and wrecked some flail mounts, I figured I should deal with some other issues too.

So, here she is, post power washing, mounted nose down on my outdoor welding table. This mower has seen some use, and a lot of years... The design is kinda problematic as it collects grass on the back of the deck, with no place for moisture to drain out. So, you can see nature has added some drainage to take care of that... Shavings build on the bottom in this area too, so it's probably inevitable on this model.

So, out with the plasma cutter, and out goes the rotten sheet metal.
This is where I got in to the ROCK... There are some other missing tabs, and some that are cracked... 12 stations that were bad, but I only actually lost the tab, pin, and blades on one. The others were hanging by the second tab.
I started a couple weeks ago on this, so I could get my replacement material in. Cutting commenced two days ago.

Yesterday, it was time to stick something back in that hole...

So out with the big clamps...
This would have been a lot easier to weld if I had turned the whole thing another 90 degrees so the plate would be flat. That would have been a real pain, so I just dealt with it. I am not proud of the welds up along the top clamp line. I just couldn't get the base material clean enough, and I'm using Mig, so it's kinda intolerant. Somewhat breezy day didn't help.

Next up was the baffel.
I managed to get some heavy tacks on it, and do the two ends to the cheek plates. Much nicer welding clean to clean... 10 gauge deck plate, and 3/16" x 3" x 3" angle. At that point, my spool ran out. I have loads of wire in the stinger spool, but I was using the spoolgun as the welder isn't real happy outdoors, and I can't weld inside a 100+ year old wood barn. I would have sworn I had another spool. If you look closely in the last photo, you can see a stack of spools sitting up on a shelf just to the right, and down from the big clock in the barn... All aluminum. I really thought the two in boxes were steel. Oh well.

Put things away for the day, and ran out to Tractor Supply. Bought a couple spools, and also one of the flux core to try. I've never used that, and I imagine it would be a better choice in the outdoors. I don't really want to have to chip welds, but it's probably better that than having the wind screw with me all the time.

I've got rain on and off all day today, so not likely going to be able to get back on this. Will have to putter around with some other things indoors.

TS, as I was reading and enjoying your post, I kept thinking flux core wire. Then I see you mentioned you picked up a spool. Usually it runs on DC- polarity not DC+ and usually with the smaller diameter wire like .30 or even .35 very little slag. So no chipping is needed. I use it often when working on rusty metal that is not easy to grind off. Harry

Like Harry said . and I would add that burns hotter and is more forgiving with dirty steel . Flux left usually comes off with wire brush . More splatter . Its kinda like 6011 in wire form . Like everything else , it has it +s and -s and it uses .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sun Jun 30, 2024 1:11 pm Like Harry said . and I would add that burns hotter and is more forgiving with dirty steel . Flux left usually comes off with wire brush . More splatter . Its kinda like 6011 in wire form . Like everything else , it has it +s and -s and it uses .

David if your getting spatter try turning the voltage down, or if your using CO2 switch to 75 Argon and 25 CO2. My 2 cents no change. Harry

Harry wrote: ↑Sun Jun 30, 2024 5:42 pm

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sun Jun 30, 2024 1:11 pm Like Harry said . and I would add that burns hotter and is more forgiving with dirty steel . Flux left usually comes off with wire brush . More splatter . Its kinda like 6011 in wire form . Like everything else , it has it +s and -s and it uses .

David if your getting spatter try turning the voltage down, or if your using CO2 switch to 75 Argon and 25 CO2. My 2 cents no change. Harry

Harry I was talking about the flux core . I don't run gas in my mig . The only gas in my shop is in the oxy act. torch tanks and the stuff that makes the

@Toolslinger Nice work . I have been wanting to get one of the smaller Gt sized Motts flail mower to adapt to 446. front mount .

Mig is usually low amperage with either CO2 or Argon mixed with CO2. Fluxcore can be gasless with certain wires, but most use CO2. The gas helps with the wire transfer to the base metal. Harry

@Toolslinger Great write up and pictures! I’m glad your able to bring this mower back into service. I bet it made one heck of a racket when you got into that rock!
I’ve never had a chance to use a flail mower, how thick of material can it handle?

I’m looking forward to seeing your projects. And I know how you feel, they never end!

Harry wrote: ↑Sun Jun 30, 2024 8:22 pm Mig is usually low amperage with either CO2 or Argon mixed with CO2. Fluxcore can be gasless with certain wires, but most use CO2. The gas helps with the wire transfer to the base metal. Harry

Thanks Harry, I didn't know there was a point to run gas with flux core . In what application would you use flux core and CO2 and not just regular wire ?

Thanks guys.

This is technically a finish cut flail. It isn't intended for heavy use. That said, it doesn't have any trouble up to about an inch and a half of woody brush. Not a steady diet of that, but taking out some of the thorn bushes I've been going after hasn't been any issue. It also can be overwhelmed with grass. When I got behind this spring due to rain, the fields got up to 3' or so tall, and lush. It choked on that much material. Running over downed branches hasn't been an issue either. Sounds bad, but the flails are just letting you know they're still back there. If it got quiet, you'd know there was an issue. It's a pretty quiet machine to begin with. Tractor far outpaces it on sound level.

Getting in to that rock was quite unpleasant to say the least. Took about 1 second to wipe out those stations...

Harry, thanks for the polarity note on the flux core. In just the little bit of reading I've done on it, I noted people talking about DCEN as you noted, and then if running it with gas, it goes back to DCEP. At which point my brain crashed, because flux core with gas never entered my mind... You mentioned CO2 as the gas. Would the typical 75/25 mix work as well? (might not pay to experiment since I'm trying to hide from the wind anyway)

If I find I'm happy with flux core, I would have to consider setting up another machine just for that setup. I have a spare Miller Matic 35 that isn't doing anything currently... Nice machine, but when I brought my Miller 252 out here when I closed my shop, I tucked it away... Without a gas bottle, it would be far easier to move it outside the barn to get close enough to the work.

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Jul 01, 2024 5:57 am

Harry wrote: ↑Sun Jun 30, 2024 8:22 pm Mig is usually low amperage with either CO2 or Argon mixed with CO2. Fluxcore can be gasless with certain wires, but most use CO2. The gas helps with the wire transfer to the base metal. Harry

Thanks Harry, I didn't know there was a point to run gas with flux core . In what application would you use flux core and CO2 and not just regular wire ?

It is usually used when you want a better weld than you get without it. Some fluxcore wires are gasless and some require gas. Gas can eliminate spatter too. Harry

Well, it was way too windy today to have to decide on trying gas with the flux core... So, I just used it straight, and swapped the polarity. The welds ain't pretty, but they did improve as I got a feel for it and got dialed in.

So, this is now done with the welding. You can see the gray areas where the flux core left it's smoke trails. Cleaning is pretty much like working with aluminum. Debris is just gray/white, not black... Comes right off with a hand brush.
Next up is reattaching the knife mounts. All the old weld was cleaned off. Then I square up the remaining mount to the shaft with a bit of hammer persuasion. Bolt the loose mount to the existing with a 1/4" spacer between, and weld it in place. Failed to take a shot of that process, but I imagine you can figure it out... The spacers and bolts are in the tray below at the lower left. The saved knives are there as well, separated by left and right. They're all identical when new, but you can tell the wear pattern, so I just match what's on the machine.
Mott specified the hammer set cotter pins. I had some left from when I replaced all the knives, but not enough, so standard pins have been used. I'll order more, because this is sure to be a repeat experience... I also have a whole bucket of saved knives from when I bought it. They're basically in the same condition the brand new ones I put on it a couple years ago are now. I still have a few new knives, but there's no point in using them. While in theory you can sharpen these knives, and they do come with a bevel edge, the reality is they get hammered so much, so fast the blunt edge does just fine when it hits the grass right around 100mph...
Done, and coming off the table. I used a come along to pull it back to it's normal orientation, and then set it on the driveway with a support block.
Headed down to my uncle's garage, and grabbed the MF 135. Back up, and hooked it up. Bought a new top link for it yesterday that will be dedicated to this mower. My hydraulic top link is great, but it's just a little short of where this machine likes to sit. I don't need a live adjustment so fixed is fine. The hydraulic does make inspecting the knives a lot easier, but I can always back over the edge of my loading dock to work under it...
4 hours later, the fields are cut. Mower worked just fine. I checked after the mowing, because I found some more bloody rocks, and all is well. It handles that pretty well as long as you don't hit the mounts with the rock. The knives just kick back and get rounded over while you're busy trying to reach the 3 pt handle, which is always too late anyway, and you're past it.

On the down side, I lost a bearing in the PTO shield. So I spent the last hour figuring out what I needed to order to replace that, and also I've ordered a complete shield setup for the Ford brush hog... Just because it always worked in the past doesn't mean it can't get better....

I did set flags at 3 rock spots the will be coming out with a backhoe... (which is likely a 646 project for Case content, but there might be a larger backhoe in the near future to play with too...)

With @Toolslinger adventure into flux core welding a few things were not mentioned . This is a wonderful write up on the differences between Mig welding with solid wire and gas compared to flux core wire and no gas . I have welded with both for many years , but again I learn some new things . This is a must read for novice welders .
https://weldguru.com/flux-core-vs-mig-welding/

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Tue Jul 02, 2024 6:02 am With @Toolslinger adventure into flux core welding a few things were not mentioned . This is a wonderful write up on the differences between Mig welding with solid wire and gas compared to flux core wire and no gas . I have welded with both for many years , but again I learn some new things . This is a must read for novice welders .
https://weldguru.com/flux-core-vs-mig-welding/

David thanks for posting the terrific welding link. An excellent article which gets into gas polarity and can be confusing. Some flux core wires use gas and some don’t. Gas is usually to dissipate the oxygen in the atmosphere out of the weld zone. Article is very detailed and a good read. Harry

Great welding article @DavidBarkey
All the welding done here in the "Big Sky Shop" is flux core, just no escaping from the wind when working outside -
and flux core inside makes for some pretty stinky clouds of smoke. For me one small advantage of using flux core is a little better visibility working in tight spaces because the stinger just has the small contact tip and the bulky gas nozzle isn't obscuring my line of sight when making that first strike.

I decided some time ago that I wanted to get a generator that could handle basically my whole house. I also have a number of 3 phase woodworking tools that I don't have a good power source for. Between those two, the solution is a military surplus generator that can handle both. (well, I hope)

The search was on/off for a number of years, and 2 houses. I finally pulled the trigger on a MEP_802a. That's a 5k generator to the military, but it would be called 7.5k probably by the overly optimistic marketing people out there... 5k is 80% of it's "maximum" constant duty load. It will go beyond that for surge demand. How far beyond I don't really know, but probably not too far due to the breakers, not the engine and gen head.

I have been picking away at my setup for a couple months. It needed some annoying maintenance, but that's mostly done now, and I should be down to basic PM's. (I do still have to do the fuel/water separator which is apparently a real pain)

At any rate, here's a few shots... Apparently I didn't take any in-process photos of the internal work. I was pretty cranky, and covered in diesel, so didn't want to touch the phone.

Electrically, I put a 30 amp 3 phase plug on it. That can handle the 3 phase, and it's full capacity at 120/240. I setup the house to take a 50amp gen set in case I want to upgrade. The adapter to go from the 3 phase, to 50 amp single just lives at the inlet, and it's a straight 3 phase cord out to the unit. Yellow cord runs a 2 bank battery charger since these are 24v units running 2 12v batteries.
If I never wanted to use the unit away from the house, I'd just float the ground, and be done with it. Since this is going to move around, and be independent I didn't want to have to go in to the hookup panel for play with the ground. I added an external ground lug, and a switch to float, or bond the ground.
There was a storm coming through a couple weeks ago, so I buttoned it up in a hurry, and dropped it by the house. I will eventually tuck it behind the piers, and under the deck overhang to protect it a bit, but it's going to be difficult to get it there. It's just over 800#, so it outclassed the 646, and while no issue for my MF 135, there isn't a lot of room to work behind the piers. Regardless, it's good to go now, and with 1000gal of fuel oil underground for the boiler, I've basically got unlimited run time.

Yesterday, it was blazingly hot. So, projects in the shade were the order of the day.

I put a buggy top on my MF 135, after changing the oil, and converting to a spin on filter. No photos, because I suck... Mounting the buggy top needs about 6 hands to hold things in place, but with enough cursing it can be done by one person... Looks good so far, but no idea how it will perform.

Next was pulling the radiator on my 1948 Diamond T. It developed a pin hole up in the top area. Not terrible, but messy, and I don't ever want to have to do this again. So first the butterfly hood has to come off. It isn't hard, but it is unwieldy, and the hardware has been on there for decades. Everything did come off reasonably well surprisingly. I drafted my uncle, and his guests to help me lift it off.
Unfortunately, the windlace has to come off to remove the bolts holding the radiator to the nose. So that will be a headache on the back end, but the rivets came out ok, and I have some bulk windlace that should work. I didn't know it at the time, but I could have removed everything by taking the top support rod, and two bottom mounting bolts off, and then have better access to pull the radiator mounting bolts. Such is life.

So, out with the engine hoist, because what Diamond T calls sheet metal, is bordering on plate steel. Nothing is light on this truck.
I rigged to a couple clamps. Not my favorite, but it worked pretty nicely.
It was tight coming out. Words were exchanged... Eventually with enough persuasion, it came free.

Lowered it down on a cradle with a packing blanket, and the radiator just lifted out.
She leaks a touch, and also the fan seeps grease, so the front of the engine is always a train wreck... I may clean this up a bit now that I have access... The fan is an independent piece that mounts in the yoke to the left of the generator. It's weird not having a fan mounted direct to the engine, but it does make removal pretty easy.

That is a neat old truck .

Thanks for the visit inside your shop, That Diamond T is a cool old piece of history... And your Genset is something to drool over.

I really like that generator. Much more desirable than my setup. 4 small one set here or there to keep essentials running when needed. Maybe you could set it on a small trailer, then it could just be rolled out from under the porch when needed elsewhere.

That Diamond T is quite an interesting old truck. Kind of unique way to run the fan. With no water pump on the front of the engine, what kind of cooling system does it have?
Thermos siphon? The thermostat housing seems to have a bit more going on with it.

The T has a water pump. It's gear driven, and sits under the generator.
The engine is a Hercules. I believe it's a JXB, but I have to look it up all the time as I just can't seem to remember... Diamond T was basically a top of the line make. While that has made it extremely durable, and reliable over the years, some of the systems are hard to find parts or references to as a result.

The fan is the tension adjustment for the generator drive belt. You slide it vertically in that yoke to tighten it up. How, I don't know, but I guess I'll get to figure that out.

Got after the brakes this morning... Several years ago, I pulled all the wheel cylinders, and sent them out to be bored, and lined with stainless to avoid the issue of the cast iron pitting. The cylinders on the rear were NLA at the time (they are now being produced again) and after chasing down 1 of them from Israeli military surplus (they used these on some half tracks that ended up over there) I decided to do that, and be done. I'm loosing fluid, and it isn't coming from the wheel cylinders... So either the master, which is pretty old, or possibly the hydrovac. I'm starting with the master cylinder as that's pretty easy. Plan was to pull it, and send it off for the same treatment, but once I got it out, and clean, I could see the part number, and amazingly, it's readily available new at Napa, so I'll pick that up Friday. I hope to avoid pulling the hydrovac. If I have to I will, and the shop that did the wheel cylinders does them too, but I shudder to imagine the price...
After that, I headed up front again. I thought I'd clean up some of the caked on oil and grease. Nothing extreme, just a little time with a putty knife, and screwdriver. Enough to see what a mess it really was.
Following that, I really cleaned the cross member where the radiator sits. Thought I should put some paint on there, and let it cure hard before I sit the radiator back on there (rubber in between). Hopefully that will be the last time that has to come out in my life... I'll drop off the radiator next week, and I expect it to take them a little while to deal with it. I had some SW Fire Hydrant Red DTM paint. Color isn't quite right, but nobody will ever see it, and it's excellent paint. It'll get a second layer tomorrow.
Finally, I want to replace the fan belt. We keep really detailed records on the T. I went through them all, twice. There is no mention of the belt ever having been replaced. We bought it in 1970. There is a Gates number on it. I just haven't been able to find a reference to that particular belt. Measuring it, it's a C section. The length is buried in my phone which is currently dead... Nothing readily available, but not a problem to get off the net.

Quite the project on your Diamond T Toolslinger. Keep the postings coming. Harry

I see what you mean, it certainly looks like a well built truck. I hope the new master cylinder solves the problem, but if not the rebuild on the hydovac might not be that bad. I went back and looked and the rebuild for mine in Herbie the 61 Ford was $137.99. I think the company was Cardone.

I agree with @Harry im looking forward to seeing the progress on the T!

That master cylinder looks a lot like the one in my trailer surge hitch .

Could be I guess. It's just a simple single circuit master. I'd love to have a split brake system, but it would be complicated to set that up with the hydrovac. I guess if I was really motivated I could chase down the parts from a modern hydraulic brake truck and start over, but this has been working pretty well for 60+ years, so I guess it has earned some respect...

I subscibe to the Kiss therory most of the time , except when I get inventive and that all goes out the window .

Well... When I slid under to take a look at the master to make sure it wasn't dripping, I slid back a bit further to the hydrovac...
That's when I noticed brake fluid in the vacuum lines. Glad we used clear line when we did them a couple decades ago... The only place the vacuum lines could pick up brake fluid is right here, so I guess I have internal leakage...
So, off with the hydrovac.
It wasn't pleasant. On the other hand, it really wasn't horrible, and there's a ton of room to work under there. Nice change from just about everything else in life.

3 Vacuum hoses, and 2 brake lines. Hangs on 3 bolts.
First stop was the parts washer. Got it clean and dry.
Then down to the wood shop to make a crate.
The crate weighs more than the unit, but I sure don't want to chase down a replacement...

Have to find appropriate screws to seal it up tomorrow, and then throw it in the truck... My vacation ends tomorrow sadly, so it'll go back to NJ with me along with the radiator. I'll ship from work, and the radiator hospital is a mile from there.

Other than hard and soft brake lines, and the vacuum reservoir tank that will cover all the brake components. I really hope this solves things. Probably take longer for the hydrovac repair than the radiator, but I probably can't put them both back in over a weekend anyway.

Well, it's been a few weeks...
In between then and now, I've picked away at a few things...

Got the cab side hood lace installed on the T.
This is what I had. (Other side was far worse) It has a wire running down the center of it to hold it in place. That took a little searching since most places don't know squat about Diamond T. It was used on earlier Checy's, and GM apparently.

Done. Worked very nicely. Didn't photo this... The remains of Debbie managed to tip a perfectly healthy white oak over in to my field. That was the only real damage on my place other than a couple dead trees coming over, but that can happen any day.
Took me all day to get it down safely as I had to break it down with a pole saw until it was just an unsupported trunk. Then I could take that down. Took just about every bit of a 28" bar to cut it off. It was a shame it was curved from being on the edge of the woods as I could really use some white oak for the bed of the T... Instead, it will burn nicely.

After that, I got the radiator back for the T. The shop had messed up, so I had to take it back, but they got it right the second time. The new owner of the shop got a lesson in not suggesting that he weld up existing holes and drill new in an antique... I can't imagine what he would have gotten from a serious restoration person... So I got that back in with the new hoses. Then it was time for the front hood lace. This stuff is mounted with split rivets. I had to make an installation tool. More reinforcement for never getting rid of odd, but functional tools. I took out the existing "jaws", and ground some custom from 3/8" fine thread bolts. This worked like a charm.

Unfortunately, I've also managed to come down with a case of Shingles... Knew I shot get the shots when I hit 50, but just didn't get there yet... So, I'm staying home from work this week at least. So far it isn't a terrible case, and other than the infuriating rash/blisters, I don't have any of the other side effects. So, the weather was gorgeous, but oddly cold for August yesterday. That made me remember I need to clean the chimney, and get it inspected for a new wood burner.

So up on the roof. I love the A-Frame my folks built, but it does make roof work a touch annoying... There are 5 flues in this monster stone chimney. I know what 4 of them are, but #5 is a complete mystery. Fortunately, I only use 2 of them, and they're both close to the peak of the house, so comparatively easy to access. I need a boom lift to get to the others, or I'd have to build scaffolding off chicken ladders. I don't think the flues have ever been cleaned. There really isn't any reasonable access with the big bluestone slab on top, and the cleanout for the wood stove is right at the floor inside, so you can't flex a pole in there. There are cleanouts buried in the footer of this beast for the other flues. They used 55 gallon drums apparently. It was the 70's and the oil crisis was going on when they did this, so they planned everything around wood, or possibly coal. I shoveled about 6 gallons of creosote out of the cleanout before I went up.

I cut a hole in the bluestone right over the flue. Diamond hole saws are amazing things... It took 9 or 10 of the 3' rods to push the brush to the bottom. It's a 7" square clay flue. Other than being perched up there, it wasn't too bad. I siliconed a piece of stainless plate over the hole to seal it back up. After the brushing, I opened the cleanout again, and I was happy to see it was just a scoop or two of very fine ash. We burn nothing but clean, well seasoned hardwood. So either it's burning right, and the flakes are just dropping in the off season, or there was a small chimney fire nobody noticed to clean it out...

Called a couple sweeps for an inspection, but haven't heard back... If they don't call soon, I'll buy a camera, and inspect it myself... Probably not the worst idea anyway, and I'm sure I'd use a remote camera for other projects...

Nice post, hope you recover soon from the Shingles!

I would love to the Diamond T in person , that is a kool piece . That reminds me I need to talk to my doctor about the shingles shot . You sir are a better man than I . I would be turning coal into diamonds in my posterior if I was up there .

Well... The Shingles cleared up nicely. That's good. Now I need to wait until at least March to get that shot so I don't get that crap again hopefully...

The Hydro-Vac came back from the restoration shop. Cleaned, sleeved with stainless, rebuilt and painted. Pricey at about a grand, but something I never have to worry about again. Life time warranty as well. So that went back in the truck last week, but I had to wait until Thursday night to get a neighbor to help me bleed it all. I tried my little cheapy vacuum bleeder. No dice on that. It went right in the trash. I also ordered a pressure bleeder cap for the master cylinder, but it hasn't gotten here yet. Will try that when I do the 3 rubber lines (likely this winter after I don't need to move the truck until spring). Reinstalled the front tires. Personally I like the Dayton system for tires. They're fast and easy to mount, and you don't need big torque tools to work on them. Yes, you have to pay attention to get them on straight, but that really isn't a terrible thing to do.

With that done, it was time to fire it up, and look for leaks.

As usual, the Hercules engine did not disappoint. It isn't a high power engine in there, but it's built to run forever, and doesn't seem to mind longer periods of inactivity...

Brake pedal felt good, if not perfect. The brakes have a unique sound to them with the Hydro-Vac. The system has an atmospheric vent that runs up in to the cab, right under the driver. As a result there's a distinct sucking sound when you hit the brakes. I did have to torque a couple banjo bolts to get them to seat better. Nothing extreme, just a drop or two of fluid. I'm not stressed about a little air in the brakes at the moment since I'll be opening them again soon.

After 30 minutes running in the barn where it lives, and finding no drips in the brakes, or cooling system, it was time to get it outside in the sunshine for a bit. Did a loop around the field, and parked it out there to let in run for a while. I ran it at a real high idle with the throttle, and went about life to get some heat in there... After a couple hours the radiator was just wrapping up dumping a little coolant out the overflow pipe to find it's happy level. Truck never went over 180. Should be good to go there now. Just over 76k miles now... It's probably just about broken in. Put it away in the afternoon after cleaning out the bay it lives in. I put drip trays down in case something seeps after cooling down. We'll see today.

Called the insurance place that used to cover it. The guy had no idea what it was, and couldn't find anything... So with the old policy (glad I didn't throw that out) number he was able to get me set up again. I'm pretty sure they think it's a pickup. I was very clear it's a 15000 gvw truck, but he's just following what they did in the past.

Also headed over to the tag/title shop. Did the paperwork to transfer it in to my name, and get it registered again. With any luck it'll be legal on the roads in a couple weeks. I'm sure I could run it on my road without any issue, but I've waited this long, a couple more weeks isn't an issue. The main thing is it's back together, and mobile, because my leaf frankin-vac is trapped behind it, and that season is almost upon us...

A job well done TS, your truck looks terrific. You can’t beat old iron, I love it! Harry

Glad you’re feeling better. The old T is coming back to life!
I know that hydrovac was kinda pricey, but at least you shouldn’t have to worry about it for decades to come now.
I’m really glad you’re bringing the truck back into serviceable condition. With out someone willing to take these projects on, the future for this old stuff is pretty bleak.

No pictures this time, 'cause well, I was busy... Had to push back the edge of a field that has been growing in for decades... Tons of low branches, and small trees along with lots of brial and thorn bushes. Probably a 6 acres or so rectangle. Just about a day and a half. I sure don't need the field, and I really don't need more mowing, but it was pushing in the space outside a horse fence enough that running a tractor around was becoming a pain, plus I put a canopy on my mowing tractor, and don't want that torn up. I should rip the fence out too, but that's not today... Plus there's a machine coming that would make that a lot easier soon, so no hurry...

What did you use to take down the brush?

I just got a Dewalt 20v pole saw for all the overhead, and reaching in to the heavy thorn bushes. I was real skeptical, but I got half way around the field on one 4Ah battery. Actually a very impressive tool. I wish the shaft was a little more rigid, but it was ok...

For the climbing briar, I really like my Stihl pole hedge trimmer. That can take apart any amont of briar, and reduce it to nothing in little time. I wouldn't want to walk in the area after the fact, but it will dry down and crumble under a tire in few months.

Trees obviously are the territory of the chainsaw, and I've been using a little Husky 435 my uncle gave me after my favorite Poulan 2900 finally died after 25 years...

The pushing and gathering to shove it over the edge of the field is via my JD300 loader. The field is a plateau on 3 sides, I can shove over the 2 long sides, and the 3rd has to go to the side, because it's a cliff down to the road. 4th side is kinda flat/uphill a little, so that can go straight in.

I still have a bit more cleanup there. I will be revisiting that after the new toy arrives, and gets some much needed hydraulic hoses replaced.

After the morning bath in hydraulic oil, I headed out to pick up the new wood stove.
There are few projects that can't be helped along by the application of heavy equipment.
Got it over my porch, cut the banding and pallet free, and dropped it on a dolly. Neighbor came by later in the day to help me push it up a wheelchair ramp in to the house so I didn't end up breaking the glass sliding door. Hopefully I'll get this project done Sun/Mon/Tues... Tomorrow I've got an out of state wedding.

Earlier this year I hung an I-Beam, trolley, and chain hoist in my house, and it's just in front of where the stove sits. I believe it will be almost perfectly positioned to lift the stove off the dolly, and on to the hearth within 18 inches or so.

I guess I was a bit vague in the last post there... That's a new wood stove hanging from the loader...

My 35ish year old Vermont Castings cracked the cast iron fire box last year, and ran away. As a result, it warped the back plate, and some other pieces... I probably could have worked out some of those issues, but that stove design was only made briefly due to their tendency to crack, so a new stove was in order...

I settled on an Enerzone unit. (made in Canada by SBI) It's just a touch taller than my VC, and basically the same firebox size. I'm oil heat, so the stove really only handles the shoulder seasons, of if I just need a little more punch when the bottom falls out of the thermometer.

Weather was good today for this... Cold this morning, so working indoors was good, and very pleasant this afternoon, so I can have the doors, and a window or two open to let the bake in fumes out.

The hoist runs parallel to the front of the stoves, so this worked out perfect. Dropped the new stove on cardboard. Hoisted the old on to the dolly, and then moved the new into place. Final position was on the cardboard. Hardest part was getting the cardboard out. That stove weighs more than it looks like. New stove is in, and burning. Smoke alarm went off once, but the whole house exhaust fan took care of that in a minute.

Nice looking stove installation!

Nice looking fire place you have there .

Thanks. The fireplace is a monster.

I believe it will take a 4' log without complaint. It has been burned probably 3 or 4 times since my folks built it in the 70's. (we moved in in the 90's when the house was finally done) My uncle informs me that it was the largest steel firebox fireplace available at the time. No idea if that's true, but you get the idea... It's a beautiful piece of scenery, but I'd do it different at this point. It serves as the wood storage for the stove now.

Frankenvac day...
I mean, there was a ton of other stuff happeneing too, but this, was one of today's goals.

The 444 started. That's nice. Battery was flat the other day. Probably weak and should be changed, but it would be nice to push that off until after leaf season at least. I've got 80# on the bracket up front to counter how far back the hitch is now.. Hitched hitched the vac up to the new hitch point on the 3 point bracket. This is nice as I was dragging the landing gear of the vac getting in and out of the barn. Now I can just raise it. Checked over things, and had to add a little oil to the blower engine. Fueled up, ran a file through the points just because... And nothing...
Pull, pull, pull some more... Starting fluid... Pull, pull, pull... Added a spark check inline. Pull, pull, pull, Ok, we got spark. Pull, and snap goes the starter rope... But it fired off, and ran! Well yay!, and crap!...

Haven't had to do a recoil unit on an older Kohler before that I recall. At least just the recoil comes off without having to pull any tin. Took a little futzing to figure out how to get in to everything without loosing a finger, or eye to the spring. I did pull it completely apart to clean everything, and then had to rewind, and latch the spring, which is a real pain on this model. Got it cleaned, and reassembled with new line. Should be good for a while I hope.
Took this to remember which way the cam installed... Reinstalled it, and with a couple pulls, it fired off. It was kinda cranky about going to full throttle, so I just crept up on it. It got to WOT eventually, and everything sounded as good as it ever does. It sure ain't pretty, but it does a heck of a good job. There's a hydrovac in the barn to replace this blower/motor, but that isn't on the list for this season, and really, until I kill this one, I likely will not bother.

Among other things, I also unloaded the JD310's extra backhoe buckets to the woodline, and parked the machine a little further out in the field so it can catch sun earlier in the day.
After arguing with myself, I am going to sell the Bucyrus Erie H-3 crane behind the 310. It could sure be a handy machine, but I'm not making progress with it, and the main reason I got it, is no longer relevant... Probably wait until spring/summer for that headache.

Well, lessee... I have been a bit lax of late. Leaves are done at the house. I should clean up a load or two at my uncles place across the street before a real snow. Hitting a leafburg on the gravel driveway sucks.

Also picked up a new to me 24" bucket for the 310. I got a 24 with it, but it was really beat, and by the time I bought the shanks and teeth to fix it, I'd be in deeper than the used unit I got. I mounted it on the machine, but found I don't have the right length bucket pin. It's on, but no digging in the immediate future. I took measurements so I can get the mechanical thumb ordered next week after I talk to the manufacturer. Being an old machine with unknown buckets, I want to make sure they're working from the right dimensions. That setup comes with a new bucket pin, so I'm good there, and the existing short one will work for the 12".

Next up was/is using up the candle making supplies from my father. He made hand dipped bayberry candles just about every years for Christmas. I spent untold hours doing that as a kid. I kept it all when I cleaned out the house, and I probably still had enough candles for the rest of my time, but I decided to make a run, use up the premixed wax, and then give the equipment away hopefully, or toss it if nobody is interested. Too much space in the closets.

This is the dipping pot. It hold about 40# of wax. The smaller pot on the side is refill wax. These are the racks and candles after 10 or 15 dips. Takes about 29 to make a standard taper. I set up for 100 this time. Probably could have done 120, or 130, but I wanted to be very sure I could finish with the supplies on hand. We cut the weights off this morning after 25 dipps. Cleaned up the bottoms a little along with some dripps. Another 3 dips on my rack, and 4 on my other half's and we were done. I'll do final cleanup on them tomorrow, and then sort by length, and pair them up.

Thats really neat . I remember my mother making larger paraffin wax candles with dried flower on the side for decoration when I was young .

Cleanup is done. Had to cut a drip off the end of each, and then use a candle sharpener on them to get the bottoms round. Sorting is on hold, but should be done later today. They will hang and harden for a day, and then get wrapped in pairs for storage, and or gifts.

First thing this morning: I only put the front of the hanging rack together, which hold 95. The back adds another 90 something. When my father made candles, he wasn't screwing around...

Racked up: Trimmed, and sharpened: Finished: The process was far less tedious that I remembered. Probably because I was a) a teenager that had better things to do, b) it was still single sticks at the time, so it took forever. I should still get rid of everything. I have enough raw wax to make another batch if I get a little dye, scent, and steric acid. So it may stay for another year. I did have plans to refill the citronella pots for the summer, so the wax gear will stay until I deal with that at the very least.

My father was a patient guy. Every stick was slotted the same, and a little countersink in each to hold the knot, so it can't slide out easily. There are a lot of sticks... I don't know what his record year was, but man it was significant.
Still using the same nuts for weights that he started with when it was single wick, and only 100 per year... They each have a small hole drilled in the side so the wick goes through, and a single knot holds it. They get melted off back in to the refill pot in a strainer. Ready to go again. Poured off the refill container in to his preferred storage containers. The ubiquitous take out wonton soup container. The dip pot is cooling. That will take a couple days.

@Toolslinger That is so fascinating the old school process . Where do you get the bayberry wax ?

I haven't had to buy the supplies. His notes give the ratio of paraffin wax, bees wax, steric acid, dye, and scent. There was almost 13# of ready to go wax in the supply boxes. It takes about 10 to make 100 candles.

There's enough raw paraffin, and beeswax to do at least another batch. I've gotten the paraffin in the past for him from McMaster, but there are plenty of candle supply outfits out there. Beeswax I'd likely hit up one of the local beekeepers.

It's 21 degrees out there. (-6 to you metric folks) Perfect day to go work on the water supply to my house. Particularly since we got 3" of rain in the last few days, so the stream will be running full bore. I'm really looking forward to this.

My regular supply point has never stopped since we put it in, in the late 90's. It still hasn't, but it was down to just a trickle with the drought, and if it stays dry this winter, I fear it might. It is the highest point on the property that the spring comes to the surface all the time.

So I'll be tapping back in to the original supply point a couple hundred feet down the stream. There's always a lot more water there, but I get less pressure since it's probably 20 or 30 feet lower in elevation. That's not really an issue for the house supply since it feeds a cistern, and then it's pumped. Main thing is it needs to keep running.

The up side is when we moved the source up hill, we left the original pickup in place in the dam. It's just cut off, and flows through. So I really only need to get my valve manifold on to that pipe, and then I can shut the valve, and work a little more dry for the balance... The manifold will let me switch from one source to the other in case there's a future issue.

Hopefully I remember to take some photos during the process... If I can feel my hands.

Toolslinger wrote: ↑Fri Dec 13, 2024 7:34 am It's 21 degrees out there. (-6 to you metric folks) <snip>
Hopefully I remember to take some photos during the process... If I can feel my hands.

Good luck with your project... Wintertime cold wet hands are the worst
Keeping my feet warm and dry is usually pretty easy, taking the gloves off for handling fiddly stuff is a whole other story. Water or melting snow was one challenge, getting them soaked in cold hydraulic oil is just nasty since you have to get them clean and dry before you can put warm gloves back on. Used to have 2 or 3 pairs of gloves sitting on the dash of the service truck trying to keep them warm, - Wonder how well those electric heated gloves work? Might be something to try if Santa Claus is nice to me one day...

Why is it we leave all these nasty outside things until the weather goes south for the winter .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri Dec 13, 2024 10:11 am Why is it we leave all these nasty outside things until the weather goes south for the winter .

Wait a minute and I'll ask the
She always seems to have an opinion...

Well, I just couldn't do it straight off. That was just too damn cold to get wet. It was supposed to top out at 31 today, so I decided to do the wet portion after it packed on a few more degrees.

So... Off to the barn.

Put the new 6v battery in the T. I'm not going to tell you it was excited to be asked to start in that kind of temperature. It did however after a bit of grumbling, fire right off, and after 10 minutes of high idle with a little choke, it settled right down.

Parked in front of the T are 2 things. A 1984 Honda TRX200 4 wheeler, and the 444 with the leaf vac. There's never a doubt with the Honda if the battery is ok. It fired right off, and moved outside. The 444 on the other hand, is a completely different story. Turn the key, and nothing. I couldn't hear the electric fuel pump due to the T, but I could see fuel moving in the filter. Starter wouldn't kick. So I grabbed the charger/starter. No luck. They're not the best things in the world, so I grabbed a spare 12v battery from one of the big tractors. Plenty of volts, and amps there, but the 444 was pissy. The starter just isn't happy I'm thinking. I've never touched that, so it's not shocking that it might be due. Add that to the list I guess. It did eventually catch, and spin up the Kohler.

So out of the barn. (don't shut it down) Pull the T out to the field. Back the 444 in to the back, and remove the leaf vac. Tucked it way in the far back corner to sleep until next fall.

Back out with the 444, and in with the T. Honda right back in its spot. Since the 444 is running, and it's still painfully cold, I decided to put the blower on. (no, I'm not avoiding that cold wet work... really)

So down to the basement, and get the JD300 running. Another ultra reliable machine. A few minutes idle, and it was happy enough to roll out in to the sunshine. Down to the basement with the 444. Off with the sleeve hitch adapter/3 point tow bar. On with a bracket, and a stack of weights. Fortunately that setup sits on a pallet high enough that I can just back up to it, and pin on. Flip the 444 around, and then the front weight bracket has to come off. That's under 100# so I just manhandle that one. Lined up with the blower, and wrestled that on. I really need to position that better to just pull up to it.
Once that was mounted, it was back up to the T's bay, and shut down. Left a trickle charger on it. Put the JD300 away.

Crap... I guess it's time to head in to the woods.

Pulled out a couple chain saws, a lopper, and all the plumbing parts and tools. Filled the chainsaws with fuel and oil. I like to take the two smallest saws for this kind of work. A little Dolmar top handle unit, and then a Husky 435. The 435 is the newest saw I have. It was my uncles, but he can't pull it any more and went to battery. It sadly sat for a long time, so it was a real bear when I got it, but I cleaned it out, and put a few tanks through it earlier this year. Thought I was good to go on that, but apparently not. This is why I make sure they run before I leave the barn, It runs for possibly a minute, and then dies. Let it sit, and you can lather rinse repeat. Clearly that's going to need a little work. So grab the old Husky 50 from the 80's. Great saw. A little heavier that the 435, and I run it with a 20" bar. Good setup, but more saw than I really needed.

Hauled everything in. I've got 2 paths to access the lower impound. Either way, it's 100' or more though real rocky brush, or along the rocky wet stream. No fun really.

This is the lower impound area. it's 3 small dams. The furthest up feeds my trough, and uncle's place. In the middle there's the old line that I'm going to tap back in to. The lowest of the 3 has the original intake for our irrigation loop, and there's a 2" line in there that feeds a neighbor's house. The flagging tape is the run to my house. I needed to trace it to be sure, because the lines start splitting further down, and I honestly have no clue where some of the go... (I swear it's on the list to trace, and label everything) This is just below the impound. The heavy line on the left is the neighbor. Then next to it is the old irrigation line with the uphill extension tee'd in to it with a valve above in case we had to go back to this. Then there's the skinny line right at the center, just to the left of that green mylar. (balloon that I found) That's the old line to the house. Then there's the skinny line on the right, and you can see the splice just above the dead tree at the lower right. Once in, it was a matter of cleaning up the area a bit so I wouldn't be fighting the rhododendron, and the various fallen trees/branches. Once that was done, I was able to get the manifold on to the outlet of the lower impound without a fight. Even remembered to put the worm drive clamp on first. Very strange.

Looking at the current run to the house, I could see I needed to pull some line uphill. No big deal since it used to be connected there right?... Well there went the next couple hours... Worked my way downstream along it freeing it up from rocks, and deadfall. Got to the end, and there was no slack to be had. So back to the corner where it comes out of the stream, and toward the house. Dead pine tree at that point. 'course the chainsaws are now up the stream... So over to the barn. When nothing else will run, the saw I know I can depend on is a Homelite XL-12. Those things are amazing. I keep a 24" bar on the XL-12, and a 28" on a Super XL. That's more bar than they want, but they'll pull it when they need to. It fired right up without complaint. Just wish it had anti-vibe grips. I did have the forethought to go up to the upper impound and shut the valve up there. No need to pull the pipe apart and have it flowing...

So this is the upper impound. I had 3 trees crash on to this earlier this year... Not good.

There are 3 pipes running in to it. The house, the field irrigation loop, and a spare that is just turned off. Obviously these three used to be completely submerged. Time has not been kind to this little dam. I should probably plan to rebuild it, but it still does it's job if we're not in drought. Back to the house, and cut the tree down. Clear the brush back, and hop the line over the stump. There will be plenty of line now. Dropped the saw out front of the house, and worked my way back upstream repositioning the line. Found a pin hole in the line at one point, so I flagged that with tape on either side. I'll have to cut/splice in the spring when it's warm again. Cleared some more brush on the way back up. With a little heat from a torch, the old coupling came apart reasonably well. I immediately put the new worm drive clamps on the lines.

Apart from having to shove the line to the upper impound uphill a bit, both connections went on to the manifold with no complaints. Once that was done it was simply a matter of going back up to the upper impound, and opening the valve. Done.
And I didn't fall in the stream once. And my hands were dry since I wore nitrile gloves. This was very strangely more stressful about chainsaws that the actual plumbing.

However, since nothing can simply be done... There are 2 dead ash trees that have to be dealt with. Both are leaning in a distinct direction. One is heading for the little dam that feeds the water trough under my barn, and my uncles place. The second would come down right on top of the manifold I just put in. They are of course on the far side of the stream, so I can't pull them from the field with a real long cable. I will have to beat my way through the rhododendron to a tree that I can put a pulley on, and then reeve a cable from the dead, through the block, and then either out to the field, back behind my house, or possibly out to the logging road. None of those options is actually very good. I might have to run it with a block and fall just so I don't have to run out so far. Will have to draft a neighbor for that project since I can't cut, and pull at the same time, not to mention it's just bad policy to fell trees alone...

RoamingGnome wrote: ↑Fri Dec 13, 2024 11:06 am

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri Dec 13, 2024 10:11 am Why is it we leave all these nasty outside things until the weather goes south for the winter .

Wait a minute and I'll ask the
She always seems to have an opinion...

Don't they always have an opinion and share it with us whether we want it out or not .

that quite the adventurous day @Toolslinger

My day stared with tending to the birds "chores" . Then blowing more snow from last night . Loaded up the Farmall Super A on to the trailer and took it back home all done . Came back with $$$ and the worlds biggest and best butter tarts . Andddd another tractor to work on . One of those other orange tractors the Japanese make .

@Toolslinger Id say that’s a full day! Funny how when you work on one thing, other things that need attention seem to pop up. I can sure relate to that.

I want to ask a dumb question. How do the water lines not freeze? Any water line around here is 3 foot deep in the ground. We have a well that’s 300 feet down and county water but none of the lines are exposed. We had a pump house at the home place but you needed a ladder to get down to the well.

JSinMO wrote: ↑Fri Dec 13, 2024 9:29 pm @Toolslinger Id say that’s a full day! Funny how when you work on one thing, other things that need attention seem to pop up. I can sure relate to that.

I want to ask a dumb question. How do the water lines not freeze? Any water line around here is 3 foot deep in the ground. We have a well that’s 300 feet down and county water but none of the lines are exposed. We had a pump house at the home place but you needed a ladder to get down to the well.

'Well' , I had the same question @Toolslinger . Up here , all water lines are below 4' or more if run under somewhere that has snow removed like a driveway . Our well is 30' dug with a range in water table of between 26 - 24 ' from surface with a fast recovery (all sand and gravel) .

Well, yesterday's 21 seems like a distant memory of warmth... All of 8 this morning... Yuck.

For the pipes, they just flow full bore all the time. The water comes out of the spring somewhat above freezing temp. And just as a moving flowing stream doesn't freeze, the pipes don't If they stop or get really slowed for some reason, they have frozen. That's not the house line, that's just a single line with nothing complicated (until now) going on. The irrigation loop has frozen now and again on low water year where it isn't really a heavy flow.

At the house it flows in to a cistern up to the "full" line, and then out a 3" pipe right back to the stream. The cistern is a 4' or 5' deep concrete box in the ground with "full" being ground level. The irrigation run gets diverted in the fall to flow back to the stream, and the loop get's drained with a little RV anti-freeze pumped in to the various valve bodies.

I should add that the climate here isn't really extreme. If we dropped well below freezing and stayed there for much longer periods, it would be a different situation. We see lots of upper 30s and 40s through the winter. Most years right along the path of the spring and stream the ferns stay green all winter due to that little bit of heat coming up from below.

Toolslinger wrote: ↑Sat Dec 14, 2024 8:50 am I should add that the climate here isn't really extreme. If we dropped well below freezing and stayed there for much longer periods, it would be a different situation. We see lots of upper 30s and 40s through the winter. Most years right along the path of the spring and stream the ferns stay green all winter due to that little bit of heat coming up from below.

Ok , now I am super jealous . So whats the down side of living there . There has to be something or everyone would live there .

Well, lessee...
I'm just far enough that a commute to NY, NJ, or Philly isn't realistic. I love my mountain for that)
There's basically no work north of the mountain I'm on, and pay sucks out here.
"Civilization" hasn't really moved in which is real nice, but there are now people here complaining about "those farmers and their cows" making it smell bad... So it's coming.
You have to drive a bit to get to stores. It's better than it used to be kinda, but nothing the suburbanites want to deal with.
The political situation here is very one sided and somewhat extreme. Me I don't like that as I'm centrist, other's may, still others may not be able to deal with it.

Toolslinger wrote: ↑Sat Dec 14, 2024 5:23 pm Well, lessee...
I'm just far enough that a commute to NY, NJ, or Philly isn't realistic. I love my mountain for that)
There's basically no work north of the mountain I'm on, and pay sucks out here.
"Civilization" hasn't really moved in which is real nice, but there are now people here complaining about "those farmers and their cows" making it smell bad... So it's coming.
You have to drive a bit to get to stores. It's better than it used to be kinda, but nothing the suburbanites want to deal with.
The political situation here is very one sided and somewhat extreme. Me I don't like that as I'm centrist, other's may, still others may not be able to deal with it.

Around here we call "those people " Citiots . Your political stance is like my driving . I like my half in the middle . The ones behind me don't mind so much , but the one coming towards me not so much .

And then there was snow...
Nothing serious. 2-2.5" and it's going to warm up today, tomorrow, and Weds... Unfortunately I have a delivery coming today, so I can't just let it melt off on its own. Not enough to bother with the blower. I'm just about to head out to fire up the 8N and wait while the 90wt gear oil it uses for hydraulic fluid actually becomes liquid...

I did check the starter on the 444 yesterday. The bendix really didn't want to move. A little Liquid Wrench, and it moved by finger, but then it refused to return... Just perfect.
New starter will be here in a couple days. Need to do the battery too, but that explains the poor behavior the other day when it had more than enough volts and amps standing by...

What I know of welding I've mostly learned watching YouTube. The Fabrication Series channel is great for learning about TIG, ICWeld is great for creative and clever approaches to welding big heavy stuff (mostly 7018 stick welding) with essentially nothing more than a welding/service truck. And CuttingEdgeEngineering includes a lot of welding in his vids, mostly MIG, and he takes the time to point out which wire type, what kind of gas, amps and wire speed. He uses gas with flux core when he's welding the eye onto giant (6" and larger) hydraulic cylinder rods. The notch between the rod and eye is about 1.5" wide and the full depth of the rod, and it takes apparently hundreds of passes to fill in. I presume it produces a clean weld with minimal slag, so it's easy to clean in between weld passes.

Bob

Well... I mentioned previously that I had put a surplus military generator on as a whole house unit. I don't recall if I mentioned that some time in the late summer/early fall something went wrong... What happened? Not really sure. My best guess is simply that there was a high resistance connection there, and the 24v system was able to build enough heat to scorch things. Obviously that big plug is shot. The wires above it are part of the smaller plug harness too.

Took me a while to come up with a derelict machine to scrounge parts... I found a 10k unit that put out 400hz power rather than 60. No big deal, the wiring is the same for both. That's been sitting in the barn for a while now waiting for me to find the time. I was not going to rush, because this is a somewhat daunting task, and I knew I was going to have to just stick through it in one group of days.
This is what I'm up against... So I found that with Christmas in between...

Out with the two burned harnesses in the top control box. Thankfully the third was ok. The military is very diligent about their labels... Every wire has a distinct number stenciled on it about every 3 inches. Makes this far easier than just a mess of wires, or playing with colors.
Front box done. Just need to clip the zip tie tails.
Yesterday, I dug in to the bottom of the machine. Just one harness there, but sadly half of it was cut by the prior owner of the parts machine. So, good crimps, and shrink tube, and I got that all put back in. Had to remove the whole front control box to get access to things.
Before

After with the splices feathered in that big bundle. This afternoon, I put a little sheet metal back on the frame to support the control boxes, and finished up a little cleanup. Put the battery charger back in, and got most of a charge done. I'm hoping if the weather agrees with me I can try to start it again Friday. I need clear weather as I want it outside for this. I really don't want to burn my uncle's garage or my barn in the case something goes wrong... Going to take it in to the middle of a field.

The weather was amazing today, so before getting back to the generator, I decided it was time to get my Christmas present to myself installed... It's an Amulet HoeClamp. Basically a mechanical thumb, rather than a hydraulic one. Because I have an extendahoe, and it's the style with the extension being inside the upper, a regular hydraulic, or fixed thumb won't really work. This thing simply pins on the existing holes, and moves in relation to the bucket. It's a pretty neat system. It's going to take a little experience to get good with it, but it works ok moving logs to start. I want to drop some boulder along the road to absorb the energy from a car before it hits either my barn, or gristmill. We've been piling boulders for years, and now I can pick away at that stack without worry about coming face to face with the rock pile inhabitants...

@Toolslinger your generator project realy tweets my interest. A phasequest unit that converts 208/240 volt to 3 phase with computer grade power on all thee legs is part of my tool box. It will handle a 5 horsepower 3 phase moter plus a bit more. When the new shop is complete a 3 phase generator is on the wish list. During the winter the generator engine heat could be captured for shop heat while powering an engine lathe, mill, compressor, and plasma cutter. 3 phase industrial equipment cast offs are cheap compared to single phase unites. Typical 3 phase equipment will have greater capabilities and options. Finding a suitable genset with clean windings and control wiring is one criteria that is high priority. Searching for browned wires is something to add to a checklist. After purchase checking that all connections are tight is a must.

I admire your tenacity and trouble shooting skills.

This is an MEP-802a. The military considers it a 5k unit, but that's 80% capacity. It'll do 5k all day, every day, and not break a sweat with your choice of 120v single phase, 120/240 single phase, or 120/208 three phase. I'm hoping to be able to power a couple of my smaller 3 phase machines, but it can't handle the big stuff. Power is clean from the brushless generator head. Military uses this series to power absolutely everything. (or did, they're mostly on to the next version now)

10K is an MEP-803a. Same voltage flavors, same 80% rating.

For what you're looking at, I'd be looking at the next step up. MEP-804a or b, and then Mep-805 (don't know about letters) Once you hit this range they're 3 phase dedicated machines, but you can still pull 120. 15kw for 804, and I guess 20 or perhaps 25 for 805. I've seen the 804's for relatively low prices compared to the 802, and 803 since most folks aren't interested in the 3 phase. If I happened across an 804 for short money now, I'd likely be in, specifically to power my 3 phase machines that are just languishing in one of my shipping containers.

I saw at least one post looking in to using the heat from the coolant, and then scavenging some from the exhaust as well to heat a space, and also water. I didn't follow along, so no idea if they got anywhere... The generator section of Steelsoldiers.com is a wealth of info on these machines, and the guys there can for sure get these things up and running in a hurry.

@Toolslinger big job . Well done . I don't think that I would be up for such a task any more . Hopefully now it is repaired there will be now further issues for you .

I’m with David on this project. I would not think about diving into this. I took a course at the Lincoln Electric Company in Cleveland Ohio. It was on welding machine equipment repair. It was just the basics but I learned a few things from it. Like leave the electrical equipment repair to the professionals. Harry

So far, while I was really concerned about doing it, based just on looking at that spaghetti, it hasn't been terrible. Hardest part is that it's an awful height to work at so my back really starts talking to me, and then trying to read those itty bitty numbers on all that 20ga wire. I'd still be working on the first wire without a lighted magnifier. If you can survive the way the military writes technical manuals, they are extremely good. You could build one from a pile of parts without too much difficulty just following the book. Along the way, they even explain the theory of operation so it might actually make sense. Currently, I'm ok with it being magic, so long as the magic works.

Spike188 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2024 7:55 pm @Toolslinger your generator project realy tweets my interest. A phasequest unit that converts 208/240 volt to 3 phase with computer grade power on all thee legs is part of my tool box. It will handle a 5 horsepower 3 phase moter plus a bit more. When the new shop is complete a 3 phase generator is on the wish list. During the winter the generator engine heat could be captured for shop heat while powering an engine lathe, mill, compressor, and plasma cutter. 3 phase industrial equipment cast offs are cheap compared to single phase unites. Typical 3 phase equipment will have greater capabilities and options. Finding a suitable genset with clean windings and control wiring is one criteria that is high priority. Searching for browned wires is something to add to a checklist. After purchase checking that all connections are tight is a must.

I admire your tenacity and trouble shooting skills.

Funny you should mention the 3 phase issue. I just got this device delivered as many devices around here are 3 phase but currently have only one phase . I've yet to test it. I got the 2.2kW unit.

Depending the model - brand, you might find this helpful
3 PHASE in the shop https://monarch14.blogspot.com/2014/03/ ... -shop.html

VFD would be great on either a single machine, or one that you want the variable speed. For my application, I'd prefer a rotary phase converter. I have a 5 gorse unit that would do most of my machines. A 10 would be perfect. Kick it off, feed a small 3 phase panel, and then run out to the machines. In that case I don't need to adjust anything, or tailor it to the specific machine.

Eugen wrote: ↑Mon Jan 13, 2025 3:30 am

Spike188 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2024 7:55 pm @Toolslinger your generator project realy tweets my interest. A phasequest unit that converts 208/240 volt to 3 phase with computer grade power on all thee legs is part of my tool box. It will handle a 5 horsepower 3 phase moter plus a bit more. When the new shop is complete a 3 phase generator is on the wish list. During the winter the generator engine heat could be captured for shop heat while powering an engine lathe, mill, compressor, and plasma cutter. 3 phase industrial equipment cast offs are cheap compared to single phase unites. Typical 3 phase equipment will have greater capabilities and options. Finding a suitable genset with clean windings and control wiring is one criteria that is high priority. Searching for browned wires is something to add to a checklist. After purchase checking that all connections are tight is a must.

I admire your tenacity and trouble shooting skills.

Funny you should mention the 3 phase issue. I just got this device delivered as many devices around here are 3 phase but currently have only one phase . I've yet to test it. I got the 2.2kW unit.

Screenshot 2025-01-13 at 10.27.29.png

I put one on our lathe and my neighbours car hoist 10yrs ago. At that time it wasn't well known that they could convert 1ph to 3ph. There was no instructions on how to do it. The lathe unit failed, but my neighbours car hoist is still working and he loves it. It was like magic to him. We switch the lathe to 1ph motor and I haven't needed one since, but I bought a newer one that boasts the conversion so I can switch lathe back to 3ph.

Had great weather yesterday...

Stripped that chains off the 8N, 444, and Gator. Back blade off the 8N too. Didn't drop the blower off the 444 as I didn't want to move things around enough to get it to it's storage spot. No hurry there, it doesn't have work assigned until the fall leaf season.

Next was fire up the Walker. It was a little cranky after its long winter nap. Low pressure in tires makes a zero turn real unhappy, so up the hill to the barn, and aired them up. Nowhere near needing to mow, but it's now sitting in front of the 8N for when it get the call. Will probably do the annual fluid change and greasing in a couple weeks. It's mostly good for a whole season after that other than a litle grease in some of the low hour fittings.

I decided to play with the new JD backhoe a little... I had it stashed over in my uncles field for the winter. I ran it over there when things were frozen so I wouldn't make a mess in the spring mud. The plan was/is to pull apart the boulder storage pile and pick some nice ones to line the road to keep folks from running in to my barn. Didn't get to that, but I did get disgusted with some of the dead ash trees that keep dropping along the field edge. I was able to push a few over in to the woods, and several more I was able to just snap off a few feet up. It is a sloppy old hoe, but it apparently can get the job done. I do think I should pull all the circuit relief valves, and rebuild them. Feels like they are bypassing a little. Cylinders could use rebuilds too, but they're not weeping, just a little internal bypass on some. Guess it could be either, or both... Should make that winter work when I don't need the hoe, but who wants to mess with that in the cold.

Also managed to rebuild the carb on a Husky 435 chainsaw. That's a miserable thing to get out of the body... Rebuild was fine. Couldn't get the screw out that holds the needle valve, so it just got all the diaphragms, and gaskets. Kinda disappointed I could do the needle, but that's life I guess. Saw fired up ok. Didn't have enough time left to go cut anything, but it will need a little adjustment on the carb by the sound of it. Close, but not quite right.

Pulled the Caster off the 446 and move the suitcase weights to the front bracket . Hooked up a trailer and gathered up saws to do a little clean up of downed limbs . That lasted about an hour until the cold winds took the wind out of my sails .

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Tue Apr 01, 2025 6:40 am That lasted about an hour until the cold winds took the wind out of my sails .

Hang in there... The good weather is coming... We're playing the game of 80 degrees one day, and 40 the next, and then back to 70... Too early for that heat, and kinda late for 40... Mother nature has gone off her meds again.

New rope finally.

Should have really inspected the wedge beforehand. The socket and wedge are ok if old/rusty, but the pin end it beat bad... New one on the way, but this one will do for finishing up, and keeping some weight on the line to keep things straight in the myriad of sheaves.

New wedge is going to screw up my overhaul weight. This one is cast to fit over the existing, and that isn't going to work with the new style Crosby sells where the clamp runs through the wedge. Will have to come up with a below wedge ball or some such.

Still need to do the rotation cable, and the equalizer, but the lift rope was the one that wouldn't let me consider using the unit.
Clam is right about 2000#. Book tells me to put some weight on the system after new cable, before putting it in service... Left that hanging for a few hours.

I have to say that getting inside that gantry to rethread the rope is less than pleasant. I'm no bigger than I was 20 or 30 years ago, but the flexibility ain't the same. Glad that's done.

The upper power plant has been a bit cranky. I don't blame it, since I've been neglecting the project for some time. It's actually a Ford 223. All my paperwork indicates 240's, and I never actually looked until the heater delete plugs started leaking, and led to doing all the coolant lines. Seems to possibly have a fuel pickup issue in the tank too. Shut down with no fuel in the filter when there was a bunch in the tank. Guess it could be a weak pump, but will have to keep an eye on it. Have a pump, but don't want to mess with it if not needed. Put 5 gal in the tank, and didn't have any issues getting fuel. Guess it could be a collapsing line too, I would say that's due for replacement too.

Can't get the truck to fire off... Fires on ether, so compression, and ignition are workable. Knew the carb needed work before, so ordered the rebuild kit, and I'll start there. I desperately hope it ain't the pump, because while I can see it, I can't figure out quite how to get to it. No access from the top without taking the PS system apart, and from below, likely the oil filter housing would have to come off first. Truck is a 361. While I was under the hood and covered with coolant anyhow from the upper, I bypassed the heater core that drips, and got rid of a coolant line that was sitting on top of the air compressor trying to melt...

I'm pleasantly surprised that the bypass on hydraulics has calmed down. Guess things needed a little exercise to lube seals, and moving parts. It's not perfect, but way better than a few years ago when I last played with it.

Also managed to get a line on a jib... Do I need another 20'? No, not a chance. I do like to have options though, of course. It's the same guy I got the crane from... Guess he forgot he had it until now... Waiting to hear back. Guessing it will be a bear to mount if needed, but that's why I have loaders... That would put the total at 55' of stick. Chart falls way off with the jib, but that's ok. The only thing I could imagine it doing for me is give me radius to drop some light equipment across my stream/pond. Can't get a generator or such over there easily. It's got 500# at 55' radius which certainly covers my 100# generator.

This is leading up to repairing my deck... I want to pull off the drawbridges, since they're not rotted due to getting to dry out up in the air. Plan is to unbolt it, lift it off whole, rebuild the structural underneath, and then swing it back up in place. This sits around 10' above the ground on piers. These are the problem one lives with when a bit of a crazy engineer built the house... The whole deck is redwood, so not rebuilding the drawbridges is a significant amount of money saved. More than enough to offset having to replace the cable on the crane and do some mechanical troubleshooting, or honestly, buying the crane in the first place....

I'll throw one in there that turned out to be a nice little project. We have a small old farm barn on the property and getting anything up into the "haymow" is a PITA for my 64 year old back. Or should that be PITB ??

I finally figured out that if I got a hold of a "cordless" winch - hoist I could pull things up to the upper level with ease. After some Facebook marketplace surfing I picked this up from a guy for $25, which made the project inexpensive to accomplish. I had previously had to remove the trolley track and trolley when we jacked the roof up and trussed it up, so I reinstalled the old track and trolley below the trusses and attached my "cordless hoist" to the trolley.

This is a 1 ton rated unit (the trolley and track might handle 200 - 300 pounds) so this is more to move bulky stuff, Not going to be lifting any tractors with this.. This particular used chain hoist already had control chains and a lift chain on it that are long enough to allow me to operate it while standing on the 1st floor of the barn. (most new ones I saw for $$$ only had 8 foot control chains, this units about twice that long.)
The son and I are working on storing our various CCI tractor parts in the haymow so we can see our "inventory" and find stuff.

It would very nice if my barn still had the track for the hay fork. Getting things in and out of the lofts is always a pain. A track, and chain fall would be a massive improvement in convenience, and safety...

The 750 continues to elude me...
Rebuilt the carb. That's a complex assembly. The carb proper isn't horrible, but there's bonus parts on this one like a governor on one side, and I'm not sure what on the other... Regardless, I was able to do almost all of it. Couldn't get the choke plate mounting screws off, so couldn't do the shaft seals. Not really a big issue. It could stand some replacement parts in the linkages... The accelerator pump linkage is seriously sloppy... It'll be fine for my application, but I expect it would be a pain to get it all running smoothly.

All that said, I was pretty sure the carb wasn't the issue as soon as I opened it up. Everything was bone dry. Dusty, filthy, and needed a cleaning for sure, but it hadn't seen a drop of fuel in a while.

Well the there isn't much else... I got under there, and amazingly managed to get the fuel filter bowl to come off, and changed the filter. There was a little fuel in the bowl, and the filter was well past its prime, so I was hopeful. I even ran the crane engine to make sure there was fuel up in the line out of the tank. No luck starting, and no fuel in the carb. So it's either the pump, or fuel line. This all happened Friday. Friday afternoon, I ordered a new pump. Saturday was a rain washout again... But the pump came in, so perhaps I will be able to work on it again today...

Well, I had the time, and it dried out enough. Managed to pull the original pump. It may well be the original as it's still a bolt together housing. I then managed to get the replacement mounted (and that took over an hour, in a really uncomfortable position). It was then that I discovered I had messed up the in and out fittings... There was no way I was taking that pump off again, so I swapped the fittings in place. After that, it wasn't too bad getting the 2 lines put back.

Skys were getting kinda dark cloudy, temp was dropping, and the wind was picking up...

Cranked it for 20 seconds, and nothing. Not shocking yet... Another 20 seconds, and nothing... Starting to worry. Once more, and I heard a pop... Feeling a lot better, 'cause that means fuel!... Once more and it fired off. Didn't want to stay running, but it would run for a few seconds playing with the choke...

Decided that was enough. Don't push my luck. I've got fuel again, and fire... So now it should just be a matter of getting the carb set better. The fuel is old at this point, so it doesn't shock me it isn't thrilled, but the upper 223 runs ok on it, so the 361 should, even if it isn't perfect...

Calling it a win for the day. Probably try again tomorrow to see if I can get it to run...

Well I tried the next day.
It fired up with choke. It requires almost full choke to run. So I started looking for vacuum leaks.

I didn't find anything, and what's weirder, is I pulled the PCV valve, and someone has completely plugged it, so it ought to be running rich, not lean. It's gotta be getting air in somewhere. Sprayed carb cleaner around the unit, and didn't note a change to indicate a leaking gasket someplace.

All that said, I have never had this engine run without lots of choke. So it's not like there's been a change. While I will pick at it a little when I can, the goal was to get it running so I can move the crane to where I need it. So mission accomplished as far as that goes. I am not going to mess with it much beyond diagnosis so I don't screw it up enough not to run...

In unrelated antique truck news... I managed to adapt a current production 6v blower motor to work in the Diamond T's heater unit. While I don't think I'll be running around in the cold, that box also provides defogging, and that I absolutly need based on memory. Small cab seems to equal foggy windshield if the windows are closed. The heater core is at a shop for recoreing. It's all bypassed currently, but should be a pretty simple reinstall when it comes back.

@Toolslinger Does that thing have a vacuum booster or vacuum wipers????

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Tue Jun 03, 2025 6:11 pm @Toolslinger Does that thing have a vacuum booster or vacuum wipers????

That’s a good thought. I bet it has a hydrovac brake booster under the cab. A stuck check valve would sure do it.

My first thought was maybe it’s not getting enough fuel. I’m wondering if a fuel line is partially blocked.

JSinMO wrote: ↑Tue Jun 03, 2025 8:03 pm

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Tue Jun 03, 2025 6:11 pm @Toolslinger Does that thing have a vacuum booster or vacuum wipers????

That’s a good thought. I bet it has a hydrovac brake booster under the cab. A stuck check valve would sure do it.

My first thought was maybe it’s not getting enough fuel. I’m wondering if a fuel line is partially blocked.

Pull and block the booster port and see what happens.

Good thoughts on the booster, but nope. It's got air brakes, and air wipers, both of which leak, but not enough to be a problem creaping around the farm.

Fuel quality is for sure on the table. It's old fuel at this point. Probably 15 or 20 gal still in the tank, and that's from a few years ago, other than 5 I put in this year. The crane's 223 runs it ok, so I'd think the 361 would do ok as well, but that's assuming they're both in the same condition. (other than dirty, and old)

Most of the fuel lines are steel. I haven't traced all the way from the tank to the fuel pump, but it leaves the tank in steel, runs to a tee in the frame to split to the crane, and at some point it goes to a soft line that supplies the 361's fuel pump. It's all thread fittings, or I would have changed the soft section, because it feels really soft at this point (as does the crane's fuel line). I have to see what fitting I need back at the tee to go to all barbed, or I have to come up with the correct crimped hose. The carb is filling to the right level, so I'm less concerned about this though.

I guess it wouldn't hurt to siphon off the fuel, and burn that up in the 8N cutting the fields. Fresh go juice would at least eliminate that question, and I'm going to chew up the fuel either way. Doing a basic ignition tuneup probably wouldn't hurt either to give me a little info about cylinder conditions. I've read some less than pleasant posts elsewhere about changing plugs on this particular engine... It wouldn't help me at all to go and snap off a plug.

for diag. reasons .

Pull the fuel line off and block off it at the pump. Using a short hose and small augsilery fuel tank , give it a new fuel source and see if it changes or not .
If yes , you know something is wrong between the "tee" and the pump . If no then try adding propane gas down the carb and see if it helps or not.
You mentioned before that the PCV is plugged by someone prier to you . That makes me beleave that there is an intake leak to the crank case . If you block the fresh air side of the pcv it should richen up and not need so much choke . The intake gasket and or a flaw in the intake it self is bleading non metered air below the carb is what I suspect .
Have fun .

That leaking intake manifold is kinda my fear, but I'll hope for something less obnoxious. The carb cleaner all around the base of the carb didn't show any change, so I don't think it's just the carb base gasket...

If it's the intake manifold, it's just going to live like it is for the forseeable future. No way am I going to try to remove those bolts until I can park the whole unit for a while, because odds are good that will end up with the heads pulled due to broken bolts.