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Re: 646-75lbh Restoration

Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2026 9:56 am
by Harry
DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Aug 27, 2026 4:22 am anouther thought , what are the chances of building the worn area up with weld and then boring to reduce amount of material needed to be removed . it is cast steel , not iron . Harry , Eugene , what do think ?
I’m not sure David, easy enough to figure out. Grind with an angle grinder slightly. Just enough to see the spark pattern. Iron will be red and steel orange. :thumbsup:

Re: 646-75lbh Restoration

Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2026 5:39 pm
by Eugen
DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Thu Aug 27, 2026 4:22 am anouther thought , what are the chances of building the worn area up with weld and then boring to reduce amount of material needed to be removed . it is cast steel , not iron . Harry , Eugene , what do think ?
In my little experience, building up the area with weld has not worked up so well because of gaps. He who has MIG can most likely do it, bu the who has not, not so easy. Watching with interest.

Re: 646-75lbh Restoration

Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2026 10:01 am
by Spike188
My original thoughts on building up the worn area with weld was the possible interference with milling alignment and boring tools. Taking into account the ideas received here makes me thing welding is worth trying. Once the transaxle can be mounted to the mill angle plate, any weld restricting the alignment shaft insertion can be . Then the alignment tool can be reinserted. The centre line found and proper boring can be accomplished. This will allow for Oem seal and bushing to be used again. :weld1:

Re: 646-75lbh Restoration

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2026 10:35 pm
by Spike188
I have been looking at building up the housing stub with nickel rod. It has been many years since welding any thing like this. I would feel more at ease if I have a practice cast pies to weld . I have a BCS tractor broom with and ear broken off of the broom. I may give that a shot first. I really want this to be perfect as there has been a lot of time put into the total rebuild so fare.

Re: 646-75lbh Restoration

Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2026 5:06 am
by DavidBarkey
Based on all the reports of people welding up broken housing from diff bolts coming loose/braking from the different sites I am convinced the housings are cast steel . Harry , you being the resident expert welder . Could you do a spark test on a couple of your housings to set the record straight once and for all . I relalise you will need to touch up the paint afterwards .
Based on what I beleave to be true . This is from a welding site .
:weld1: :--
How to weld cast steel
Learning how to weld cast steel is less of a challenge compared to cast iron. That’s because cast steel is carbon or alloy steel that has been melted and molded into a specific shape. However, even though cast steel has similar properties to rolled steel, some differences make it harder to weld.
Although you can weld cast steel using the MIG or TIG processes, many welding experts recommend stick welding with E7018 rods for low-carbon alloys and stainless-steel rods for hard-to-weld castings.
One of the issues with welding cast steel is avoiding distortion. Here are some suggestions to help with that:

Preheat the casting: Castings can have irregular shapes, with thinner areas heating more quickly. Concentrate the heat on thicker regions.
Tack weld frequently.
Set to the lowest amperage that will produce a strong enough weld.
Use the fastest traveling speed possible.
Use fewer passes.
Slow down the cooldown by wrapping it in welding blankets or burying it in sand.
A few more tips on how to weld cast steel successfully:
Clean the edges to be welded down to the bare metal.
Preheat cast steel if it has more than 0.40% carbon or it is low-alloy steel. Preheating to 250°F prevents hydrogen in the weld.
If you weld in a cold environment, preheat low-carbon castings to 75°F.
If you are repairing a crack, drill both ends (1/8″) and remove the crack by grinding or gouging.

Re: 646-75lbh Restoration

Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2026 9:49 am
by dhitching
My go-to trick for reasonably sized cast iron is to heat it up in the oven to ~450. Pull it out of the oven, weld, and put it right in the oven when I'm done welding. Then in 30min or so set the oven heat to 400. 30min later set it to 350, an hour later set it to 300, etc.

Re: 646-75lbh Restoration

Posted: Fri Sep 11, 2026 8:46 am
by Harry
DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Sep 09, 2026 5:06 am Based on all the reports of people welding up broken housing from diff bolts coming loose/braking from the different sites I am convinced the housings are cast steel . Harry , you being the resident expert welder . Could you do a spark test on a couple of your housings to set the record straight once and for all . I relalise you will need to touch up the paint afterwards .
Based on what I beleave to be true . This is from a welding site .
:weld1: :--
How to weld cast steel
Learning how to weld cast steel is less of a challenge compared to cast iron. That’s because cast steel is carbon or alloy steel that has been melted and molded into a specific shape. However, even though cast steel has similar properties to rolled steel, some differences make it harder to weld.
Although you can weld cast steel using the MIG or TIG processes, many welding experts recommend stick welding with E7018 rods for low-carbon alloys and stainless-steel rods for hard-to-weld castings.
One of the issues with welding cast steel is avoiding distortion. Here are some suggestions to help with that:

Preheat the casting: Castings can have irregular shapes, with thinner areas heating more quickly. Concentrate the heat on thicker regions.
Tack weld frequently.
Set to the lowest amperage that will produce a strong enough weld.
Use the fastest traveling speed possible.
Use fewer passes.
Slow down the cooldown by wrapping it in welding blankets or burying it in sand.
A few more tips on how to weld cast steel successfully:
Clean the edges to be welded down to the bare metal.
Preheat cast steel if it has more than 0.40% carbon or it is low-alloy steel. Preheating to 250°F prevents hydrogen in the weld.
If you weld in a cold environment, preheat low-carbon castings to 75°F.
If you are repairing a crack, drill both ends (1/8″) and remove the crack by grinding or gouging.
I have seen in industry castings that were repaired with SS rod. Not a good idea because the chromium in the SS rod makes it hard and crack sensitive. Like dhitching mentioned preheat and post heat are essential for cast iron but also a good idea for cast steel. I checked the rear axle housing yesterday when I was installing wheel weights on the 446. It’s definitely cast steel.

Re: 646-75lbh Restoration

Posted: Fri Sep 11, 2026 10:30 am
by Spike188
Thank you @Harry So is using Nicad rod for this weld is the proper rod to use?

Re: 646-75lbh Restoration

Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2026 7:51 am
by Harry
Spike188 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 11, 2026 10:30 am Thank you @Harry So is using Nicad rod for this weld is the proper rod to use?
Spike, yes nirod does not have chrome in it, so use it for cast iron. Cast steel use a mild steel electrode like E7018.

Re: 646-75lbh Restoration

Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2026 4:59 am
by DavidBarkey
Harry wrote: ↑Sun Sep 13, 2026 7:51 am
Spike188 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 11, 2026 10:30 am Thank you @Harry So is using Nicad rod for this weld is the proper rod to use?
Spike, yes nirod does not have chrome in it, so use it for cast iron. Cast steel use a mild steel electrode like E7018.
Thanks Harry . Based on what I have read that is what I was thinking , but I am no expert so it is nice to get confirmation from a seasoned pro . :--