Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Posted: **Mon May 24, 2021 8:13 pm**

Funny the other day in a thread I made the remark that I could probably count on one hand how many 400 series tractors I’ve seen come up for sale in NS, and how they were quite uncommon. Wouldn’t luck have it that this beauty pops up for sale literally 15 minutes from my house in the nearest town to us LOL.

She’s a 1977 444, a bit rough around the edges, seems like it’s had decent maintenance done over the years, the paint job leaves a bit to be desired but I’ve seen worse. It seems to run well, has a new battery in it. Came with tire chains, a front blade (the narrower 200 series), and a mower deck, not sure the size but it’s smaller than the 4ft deck I have now.

The bad part is, it doesn’t move. You move the lever back and forth it doesn’t do anything, just the slightest shudder occasionally. The PO said he had taken the pump and TCV to a local hydraulic shop here and they said both were fine. He did say he was using a thin oil in it for hydraulic oil. Hope to get a look at it next rainy day and see if I can find something simple wrong with it.

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Posted: **Mon May 24, 2021 8:14 pm**

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Posted: **Mon May 24, 2021 8:15 pm**

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Posted: **Mon May 24, 2021 9:02 pm**

Does it move in high or low range?

Posted: **Mon May 24, 2021 9:05 pm**

I only tried it in low when I was at the PO's place, I'll try it in high tomorrow when I take it off the truck.

Posted: **Mon May 24, 2021 11:08 pm**

See, when the planets align it all works out. Good project.

So if the TCV and motor are ok, what's left? Transmission. You might have to have a look in there. Keep us posted! :creeper:

Posted: **Tue May 25, 2021 7:04 am**

My guess is that the bolts holding the ring gear to differential are snapped off. They are not a big job to change and it is a good time to clean out the housing. It will probably have a lot of water and oil sludge in it.

Spike

Posted: **Wed May 26, 2021 5:28 am**

Got it off the truck yesterday, tried it in both high and low and it’s the same. It’s a bit hard to describe but it just barely starts to move there is no abnormal sounds or changes to load on the engine. It acts like travel lever is way out of adjustment and it’s not actually actuating the spool on the TCV. Maybe tonight I will have a better look at it, I want to change the fluids anyway and I already started stripping paint off it haha

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Posted: **Wed May 26, 2021 8:36 am**

Another quick update, just after milking this morning I stopped in the shop. The hydraulic lift on it is extremely slow also, to the point of not functioning either. I suspect the problem is going to be either with the TCV or pump, both of which were already taken off and supposedly inspected by a competent hydraulic repair shop. I guess the first thing will be to change out the oil for 15w40 and go from there.

Paint stripping is going as expected, just can’t buy decent stripper anymore.

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Posted: **Wed May 26, 2021 10:22 am**

Right, I always change all fluids on anything I get, you never know what the PO did. Let's hope that's all there is, but still, should not be a big deal to fix if it's something else.

How's the engine running?

Posted: **Wed May 26, 2021 10:28 am**

Eugen wrote:Right, I always change all fluids on anything I get, you never know what the PO did. Let's hope that's all there is, but still, should not be a big deal to fix if it's something else.

How's the engine running?

It runs like a top but it’s definitely a little harder to get it going than my other 444 is. I can look into that later i don’t think it’s anything too serious.

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Posted: **Wed May 26, 2021 10:41 am**

That's good. You're just in for some carb cleaning and adjusting. You're also lucky to get another 444. I tend to like the 444 more than the 446 mainly because the cost of rebuilding the Onan. The k321 is definitely cheaper to rebuild. Not sure if the 2HP makes a real difference anyway.

I got a 446 and a spare Onan 16HP engine for it, although the guy who sold it to me said " it turns but might burn some oil"

oh yeah, that doesn't sound good at all.

Posted: **Wed May 26, 2021 12:12 pm**

If your up for a road trip, this 444 popped up on CL yesterday. Massachusetts/New Hampshire boarder near Maine.
https://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/grd/d ... 14424.html

Good luck getting it fixed. Would be nice if it was something simple like adjusting the pressure reliefs in the TCV.

Posted: **Wed May 26, 2021 6:20 pm**

MattA wrote:If your up for a road trip, this 444 popped up on CL yesterday. Massachusetts/New Hampshire boarder near Maine.
https://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/grd/d ... 14424.html

Good luck getting it fixed. Would be nice if it was something simple like adjusting the pressure reliefs in the TCV.

I couldn’t even get there if I wanted to, we are on lockdown they won’t even let us out of our county let alone province or even country LOL

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Posted: **Wed May 26, 2021 6:23 pm**

Well I’m back with a report. Changed the oil to 20w50 and it certainly helped. It now actually does move some, but is extremely weak, barely moves in low will not move at all in high. The travel on the TCV is out of whack but I’m getting full travel in at least one direction, forward. I’m thinking that this hydraulic pump is bad, the thicker oil helped it but not enough. What do you guys think? I made a little video of it I’ll try to upload it when I get in.

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Posted: **Wed May 26, 2021 8:38 pm**

Been thinking on it some. I need to put a gauge on it and see what it's doing for pressure before I drop the coin on a new pump or make any other hasty decisions.

Posted: **Wed May 26, 2021 10:43 pm**

Yeah, at this point everything's on the table. So, what you know for sure is that the engine runs, but does it turn the pump? If the pump turn as fast as the engine shaft, you need to check the pressure. I got a liquid filled 3000psi gauge, a 1/4 inch npt hydraulic hose, and a couple of hydraulic angle connectors from Princess Auto. Everything was less than about $40 CAD. Plugs right into the bottom of your TCV, you'll find the Allen key 1/4" plug.

In your case there won't be much pressure even with a good pump, if you test with the forward/backward drive. If the hydraulic motor's bad the oil goes right through it. You might want to see what pressure you get at the ends of your lift, when the pressure relief valve usually gets bypassed.

If you don't hear that squealing sound at the ends of your lift, tighten the pressure relief valve. It's under a cap on one end of the TCV. Both the lift and the travel have these valves.

I don't have much experience with the TCV, but could it somehow have an internal leak so bad that you end up with such symptoms?

One thing, if both the lift and the drive are weak, that really points to the pump. Or the coupling between the pump and the engine.

Posted: **Thu May 27, 2021 7:37 am**

I should probably check the connection between the pump and engine, the PO had the pump off I can see the new bolts around the engine mounts and pump mounting bracket.
When I drained the hydraulic fluid it had no trouble pumping it out of that test port on the TCV, seemed quite normal in terms of flow. But then again it’s not really creating any pressure like that so the pump could still be bypassing internally somehow under pressure.
I have not yet heard any sign of the relief valve opening. Unless they are opening at such a low pressure they aren’t making the noise in accustomed to on my other 444, or the pump isn’t building any real pressure.
At this point I suspect the pump is toast but I just want to rule out the TCV first.

Ordered some fittings, hose, and a gauge from PA so well test it whenever that comes. I have enough projects on the go right now I can leave this one sit for a week or so lol.

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Posted: **Thu Jun 10, 2021 5:22 am**

Tested hydraulic pressure at port on the TCV, lucky to make 200 PSI at most.

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Posted: **Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:12 am**

mac102004 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 5:22 am Tested hydraulic pressure at port on the TCV, lucky to make 200 PSI at most.

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At rest? Did you try pushing into anything like a tree?

Aldo, did you make sure that the pump is turning as fast as the engine? Just in case the po didn't couple them right.

Posted: **Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:17 am**

Eugen wrote:
mac102004 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 5:22 am Tested hydraulic pressure at port on the TCV, lucky to make 200 PSI at most.

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At rest? Did you try pushing into anything like a tree?

Aldo, did you make sure that the pump is turning as fast as the engine? Just in case the po didn't couple them right.

No need to push against a tree I can hold the tractor Back with one hand while I hold the gauge in the other LOL 250psi wide open throttle, forward backward high low, full stops on the lift cylinder. That’s all I can get out of it. Next step is to check the pump coupling, no matter what I have to
Go in there anyway, it has to be either the pump or the coupling.

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Posted: **Fri Jun 11, 2021 7:32 pm**

A few pics of the pump.

This pump has a 9/16" shaft, so to fit the replacement pump with 1/2" shaft I need the correct coupler. Is there a cheaper alernative to OEM? I looked it up the other day seemed like it wasn't far off from the price of the pump, $200 or more.

Posted: **Sat Jun 12, 2021 12:38 am**

mac102004 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 11, 2021 7:32 pm A few pics of the pump.

This pump has a 9/16" shaft, so to fit the replacement pump with 1/2" shaft I need the correct coupler. Is there a cheaper alernative to OEM? I looked it up the other day seemed like it wasn't far off from the price of the pump, $200 or more.

About two years ago I too was looking for lovejoy couplers. Found some cheap on amazon, eBay, and pa. I didn't buy any so I can't say anything about how good a fit they might be.

Posted: **Sat Jun 12, 2021 6:49 am**

Eugen wrote: ↑Sat Jun 12, 2021 12:38 am
mac102004 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 11, 2021 7:32 pm A few pics of the pump.

This pump has a 9/16" shaft, so to fit the replacement pump with 1/2" shaft I need the correct coupler. Is there a cheaper alernative to OEM? I looked it up the other day seemed like it wasn't far off from the price of the pump, $200 or more.
About two years ago I too was looking for lovejoy couplers. Found some cheap on amazon, eBay, and pa. I didn't buy any so I can't say anything about how good a fit they might be.

I have been running a PA. coupler and spider on Frankie for about 5 years now between a 20 hp onan and a 16 gallon PA. pump. havent had a problem so far .
Dave

Posted: **Sat Jun 12, 2021 7:59 pm**

Yeah it wasn’t so much the quality I was concerned about I thought maybe the Case/Ingersoll coupler might have been made to “special” dimensions or something. But if it’s just standard I’ll just order one from PA, I need to get a seat anyway, nothing in this flyer though unfortunately lol.

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Posted: **Sun Jun 13, 2021 6:30 am**

mac102004 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 12, 2021 7:59 pm Yeah it wasn’t so much the quality I was concerned about I thought maybe the Case/Ingersoll coupler might have been made to “special” dimensions or something. But if it’s just standard I’ll just order one from PA, I need to get a seat anyway, nothing in this flyer though unfortunately lol.

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They do come in couple of different sizes , ie the out side diameter match that and select your bore size . Get the matching spider . They come in different grades .
Dave

Posted: **Sun Jun 13, 2021 8:45 am**

You might want to check with this guy for a used pump. I recall from his adds years ago that he has bins full of parts in addition to tons of tractors and attachments. AFAIK he was a member of the old site.

https://nmi.craigslist.org/grd/d/rapid- ... 09793.html

Posted: **Sun Jun 13, 2021 11:47 am**

mac102004 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 12, 2021 7:59 pm Yeah it wasn’t so much the quality I was concerned about I thought maybe the Case/Ingersoll coupler might have been made to “special” dimensions or something. But if it’s just standard I’ll just order one from PA, I need to get a seat anyway, nothing in this flyer though unfortunately lol.

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The Case/Ingersoll coupling is not a standard Love Joy coupling. If you look at your original the two halves are not the same length, the pump half has been machined to fit within the confines of the housing. You can shorten a standard coupling to match the C17300 but will also then have to relocate the set screw holes.

Bob

Posted: **Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:41 am**

Well I ended up ordering the new pump "kit" as well as the correct C17300 coupling half, it was more money than generic but at least it should be "right". Ordered a new air filter, carb kit, and some other misc parts. The PTO clutch seems to be not functioning either so I guess I get to dig into that for the first time. Ordered a seat from PA they actually are on sale. Just a waiting game for parts now.

I should have turned this thing into a parts tractor, but I just can't seem to do that LOL

Posted: **Sat Jul 03, 2021 4:11 pm**

Still making progress on the 444, slow and steady. Still waiting on all the parts I ordered although I did get the seat lol. Been cleaning things up and getting ready for paint. Had a chance to power wash it all today. Wheels will have to come off before I paint and be cleaned up. What a mess 47 layers of paint makes. The hood and fenders are almost ready for paint. I hit them with primer yesterday and have been using trying to smooth them out today, lots of sanding.

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Posted: **Sat Jul 03, 2021 4:52 pm**

Good progress! Sandblasting, priming and painting is something I'm not set up for, but would like to. I've see a painting tent at Lee valley, as I don't have a proper shop.

Where do you get the paint from?

Posted: **Sat Jul 03, 2021 5:11 pm**

The power red is right from Case I just happen to have a quarts and aerosols around. The wheels I’ll just paint with a couple duplicolour rattle cans from Canadian tire, gloss white. I’m all out of power white paint. Same with the engine just a low gloss black engine paint from Canadian tire.

This is not a full resto by any means just a tidy up and respray so it’s presentable. I’m trying to hold myself back a little I tend to get out of control on restorations, as can be seen with my 1394 project lol.

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Posted: **Thu Jul 08, 2021 9:46 pm**

back on the 444 today, things feeling like they are going in the wrong direction but oh well. I have the hood and fenders in primer, sprayed bedliner on the inside of the fenders, I may do a little more body work on the hood yet I'm not sure I'm 100% satisfied with it yet but it's close.
I had power washed the tractor the other day and I was doing a little sanding on that, I noticed there was a few rust holes in the top cover on the trans axle. Thought about slapping JB weld over them in place, but of course I couldn't bring myself to do it. So out the rear end comes, took the cover off and cleaned it up. Put JB weld on it, I think it will be OK like that can't see there being any issues. I'll sleep on it tonight may order another cover in the AM lol. Going to have to clean out the transaxle good, oil is pretty milky. For a tractor I'm not doing a restoration on it's getting awful close to looking like a restoration job. *sigh*

Posted: **Fri Jul 09, 2021 11:39 am**

Oh yeah, that's some rust pitting there. The JB weld is amazing stuff, I once stuck a spark plug back into the head of a Crown Vic using JB weld, after it got blown out, someone before me blew the threads by over tightening it, and drove like that for a couple of weeks.

But I'd suggest before you fill in all those rust holes to give it a treatment with a good rust disolving product. The best I could find in Canada is the Krud Kutter Must for Rust Gel. You can find it at PA, Canadian Tire, Walmart. It's not super expensive and it treats quite a lot of surface. Costs about $17 per liter. It contains phosphoric acid and it's pretty much the only product that does, in Canada, as you can't get Ospho (lucky :usa:

). It's a squirt bottle, and I squirt it on a brush and then put a layer on. You leave it for a while, it literally converts rust to a primed surface, so you can just wipe the excess and paint over. In your case you'd apply the JB weld. If you leave it for a while it ends up as a white powdery surface, which you can brush off and directly paint over if you want. I found that stuff amazing. Anything else and as soon as you're done wire brushing or whatever, in a few minutes surface rust is back on. Not with this stuff. Anyway, I don't have any affiliation with the Krud Kutter product, just that I looked for somethig like this for a long time, and this is the only one that I found that works really well.

Posted: **Fri Jul 09, 2021 1:04 pm**

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Posted: **Fri Jul 09, 2021 1:59 pm**

nowhere to find it in Ontario. Lucky man you!

Posted: **Fri Jul 09, 2021 2:11 pm**

Eugen wrote: nowhere to find it in Ontario. Lucky man you!

Check out emerald coatings in Palmerston, I think it’s north of listowell area, they ship also.

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Posted: **Fri Jul 09, 2021 3:22 pm**

I did already, comes up to $83 after you add tax and shipping.

more $$ than the one I can get locally. Palmerston is more than 2h away. oh well...

Posted: **Fri Jul 09, 2021 3:49 pm**

Yep wasn’t cheap, wanted to try it. Works good. Not sure if it’s any better than regular Krud cutter, it’s pretty similar stuff. Not the gel but the regular bottle.

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Posted: **Fri Jul 09, 2021 4:25 pm**

I can tell you this that I was also looking for the ospho, because people talk so much about it on the net. But got the Krud Kutter as an impulse when I saw it on the shelf, and didn't even know that it contains phosphoric acid. Though, the SDS sheet says 19% for Krud Kutter and 45% for Ospho.

So, if you were to take the content of acid as what you pay for, then Ospho is probably cheaper. But I've been really amazed how well the Krud Kutter gell works. I applied it and after about 20 minutes I wiped it off. Now, with Ospho you could dilute it, in theory.

Tomatoe tomato you already have Ospho and I think you should use it on that rusty plate. Othewise you're bound to get some rust forming under the JB weld me thinks.

Glad you're making progress. I've been meaning to change the oil in the transfer case of both my 644 and 446. Not looking forward to what I'll find there. Probably milky stuff.

Posted: **Fri Jul 09, 2021 6:11 pm**

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Jul 09, 2021 4:25 pm I can tell you this that I was also looking for the ospho, because people talk so much about it on the net. But got the Krud Kutter as an impulse when I saw it on the shelf, and didn't even know that it contains phosphoric acid. Though, the SDS sheet says 19% for Krud Kutter and 45% for Ospho.

So, if you were to take the content of acid as what you pay for, then Ospho is probably cheaper. But I've been really amazed how well the Krud Kutter gell works. I applied it and after about 20 minutes I wiped it off. Now, with Ospho you could dilute it, in theory.

Tomatoe tomato you already have Ospho and I think you should use it on that rusty plate. Othewise you're bound to get some rust forming under the JB weld me thinks.

Glad you're making progress. I've been meaning to change the oil in the transfer case of both my 644 and 446. Not looking forward to what I'll find there. Probably milky stuff.

Miratic acid is easier to find and with a little work will give you similar results ( doesn't just work on concrete ) . Like with anything caustic caution must be observed .

Dave

Posted: **Fri Jul 09, 2021 6:16 pm**

DavidBarkey wrote:
Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Jul 09, 2021 4:25 pm I can tell you this that I was also looking for the ospho, because people talk so much about it on the net. But got the Krud Kutter as an impulse when I saw it on the shelf, and didn't even know that it contains phosphoric acid. Though, the SDS sheet says 19% for Krud Kutter and 45% for Ospho.

So, if you were to take the content of acid as what you pay for, then Ospho is probably cheaper. But I've been really amazed how well the Krud Kutter gell works. I applied it and after about 20 minutes I wiped it off. Now, with Ospho you could dilute it, in theory.

Tomatoe tomato you already have Ospho and I think you should use it on that rusty plate. Othewise you're bound to get some rust forming under the JB weld me thinks.

Glad you're making progress. I've been meaning to change the oil in the transfer case of both my 644 and 446. Not looking forward to what I'll find there. Probably milky stuff.
Miratic acid is easier to find and with a little work will give you similar results ( doesn't just work on concrete ) . Like with anything caustic caution must be observed .

Dave

Muriatic acid is pretty nasty stuff I try to stay away from that if I can. But yes I have used it and yes it does work.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 13, 2021 8:23 am**

Sprayed some paint.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 13, 2021 12:38 pm**

that looks sooo nice! I'm envious!

great job!

Posted: **Tue Jul 13, 2021 2:14 pm**

Eugen wrote: that looks sooo nice! I'm envious! great job!

It turned out alright. They were in tough shape, I did what I could with them and gave them some fresh paint. If a person wanted to do a real resto they’d be better off finding replacements.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 13, 2021 6:44 pm**

Your making that little tractor look great again

it should be a good working tractor.
Soooo, is this a warm up for restoring the Golden Demo, or did you sell it?

Here's a little inspiration

Tim

Posted: **Tue Jul 13, 2021 6:51 pm**

ÀH guy wrote:Your making that little tractor look great again it should be a good working tractor.
Soooo, is this a warm up for restoring the Golden Demo, or did you sell it?
Here's a little inspiration
Screenshot_20210713-172355.png

Tim

The demo is still here, oddly enough it’s a pretty limited market at $4500

it will sell eventually, or not. I will never restore that one but it may get a mechanical refresh and a minor engine overhaul. Tractors are only original once and even though I guess to some it may look a little rough I really like the patina it has. The most I’d do it clean up the rust and shoot matte clear on it.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 13, 2021 10:08 pm**

mac102004 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 13, 2021 6:51 pm
ÀH guy wrote:Your making that little tractor look great again it should be a good working tractor.
Soooo, is this a warm up for restoring the Golden Demo, or did you sell it?
Here's a little inspiration
Screenshot_20210713-172355.png

Tim
The demo is still here, oddly enough it’s a pretty limited market at $4500 it will sell eventually, or not. I will never restore that one but it may get a mechanical refresh and a minor engine overhaul. Tractors are only original once and even though I guess to some it may look a little rough I really like the patina it has. The most I’d do it clean up the rust and shoot matte clear on it.

I'm sure you're location has a little to do with it too. it's a cool tractor. I don't know what I would do with it, but I wouldn't park it as a show tractor.
I thought the paint on the hood was wore through to the metal. Didn't realize it was the decal.

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Posted: **Wed Jul 14, 2021 5:23 am**

ÀH guy wrote:
mac102004 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 13, 2021 6:51 pm
ÀH guy wrote:Your making that little tractor look great again it should be a good working tractor.
Soooo, is this a warm up for restoring the Golden Demo, or did you sell it?
Here's a little inspiration
Screenshot_20210713-172355.png

Tim
The demo is still here, oddly enough it’s a pretty limited market at $4500 it will sell eventually, or not. I will never restore that one but it may get a mechanical refresh and a minor engine overhaul. Tractors are only original once and even though I guess to some it may look a little rough I really like the patina it has. The most I’d do it clean up the rust and shoot matte clear on it.

I'm sure you're location has a little to do with it too. it's a cool tractor. I don't know what I would do with it, but I wouldn't park it as a show tractor.
I thought the paint on the hood was wore through to the metal. Didn't realize it was the decal.

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LOL yeah just a big decal. It’s an interesting tractor, I always used it I don’t keep them around to just look at them, haha.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2021 3:13 pm**

New pivot pin made, same idea as the ones on eBay that cost $40 US plus $28 shipping. The pin is 1045 I have no idea what the thick washer was made out of HSS didn’t like it much only ended up making one. Just welded a standard washer on the other end we’ll see how that works, if I can find some scrap around a bit softer I’ll make another thick washer.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2021 3:59 pm**

Is this the pin on the front axle? Why did you need to make a new one?

Man I'm so jealous how well finished your parts turn out on your lathes guys! On my Myford ML7 I cannot get them so well finished. They come out with cutting lines.

Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2021 4:06 pm**

Eugen wrote:Is this the pin on the front axle? Why did you need to make a new one?

Man I'm so jealous how well finished your parts turn out on your lathes guys! On my Myford ML7 I cannot get them so well finished. They come out with cutting lines.

Yes front axle pivot. Fair bit of slop in it just want to tighten it up some, this will squeeze the plates that hold the pin in place a bit and hopefully eliminate some of the slop. There isn’t much wear on the bore of the axle but the PO must of had the original pin fall out at one time, the keeper on the front was broke and the pin had been welded to the frame.

To be fair the finish on that wasn’t great I ran out of carbide inserts and was reduced to using a carbide tipped boring bar mounted in the cross slide to cut it. It did the job but took a fair amount of Emory cloth and sand paper to clean up lol.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2021 8:00 pm**

One of the spindles on the front axle was pretty tight, turned out to be more dry than anything. I decided I might as well remove both clean them up, grease them, and install poor mans power steering mod, I was on the fence about doing it but I had the parts here anyway.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2021 8:01 pm**

New pivot pin installed tightened it right up made a HUGE difference.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2021 8:05 pm**

mac102004 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 20, 2021 8:00 pm One of the spindles on the front axle was pretty tight, turned out to be more dry than anything. I decided I might as well remove both clean them up, grease them, and install poor mans power steering mod, I was on the fence about doing it but I had the parts here anyway.

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Nice! I want to do it asap. Why were you on the fence about doing it?

Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2021 8:07 pm**

Eugen wrote:
mac102004 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 20, 2021 8:00 pm One of the spindles on the front axle was pretty tight, turned out to be more dry than anything. I decided I might as well remove both clean them up, grease them, and install poor mans power steering mod, I was on the fence about doing it but I had the parts here anyway.

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Nice! I want to do it asap. Why were you on the fence about doing it?

I don’t plan on keeping the tractor, so just added expense really.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 20, 2021 10:23 pm**

mac102004 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 20, 2021 8:07 pm I don’t plan on keeping the tractor, so just added expense really.
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I bet you're curious if it makes a difference and couldn't help yourself!

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 5:44 am**

Eugen wrote:
mac102004 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 20, 2021 8:07 pm I don’t plan on keeping the tractor, so just added expense really.
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I bet you're curious if it makes a difference and couldn't help yourself!

Pretty much

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Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 6:30 am**

Re-zinc plated the snap fast pins, didn’t dip them far enough in the tank but I guess it would wear off that end quick anyway. Painted the springs black, reinstall after the frame is painted. I need to find 2 new roll pins, somewhere in my shop there is a couple of kits from PA, but where is the real question lol.

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Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 7:04 am**

What do you use for a plating tank ? Where do you get your supplies ?

Dave

Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 7:10 am**

DavidBarkey wrote:What do you use for a plating tank ? Where do you get your supplies ?

Dave

It’s a kit from Caswell, the tank is a 3 gallon bucket. It wasn’t cheap but I bought it to plate some stuff for another project. I can do them in silver or the yellow chromate like is common on bolts

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Posted: **Thu Jul 22, 2021 8:47 am**

For what it's worth I used a piece of zinc and electrolysis in a bath of water with a little baking soda plus a little washing soda. Worked well too.

I use an old 12V power supply from a computer, capable of supplying a lot of amps (maybe 24 or so). Got a roll of zinc that people use on the roof, from home hardware. It was the only source I could find of a more reasonable price. It's recommended that one uses distilled water. There are several "salts" that one could use to make the bath, the idea is that the water conducts ions if salts are added. A little bit of detergent like washing soda helps to have a finer deposit for the plating. I also tried epsom salt too. The receiver item should be really well clean of grease or oil, and dirt, of course. Many like the receiver item dipped in muriartic acid (hycrochloric acid). That'll clean most rust too. The plating is simply hanging the piece of zinc in the bath, I try to hang it so that the tape of zinc goes all the way around the receiver piece. Zinc goes on the + (positive) lead of the power supply, and the receiver on the - (negative).

The more proper way is to get the right zinc sulfate from caswel, but what I'm trying to say is that I got a good coating using my method too. In fact I experimented with copper coating of tools too. Now that way I got a nice looking coppery pair of pliers.

When I was rebuilding the carb on my old boat I silver coated the inner parts of the carb using an old silver chain I had around as donor. And it worked, using the same idea as above. Of course to do it more professionally you get silver in a salt powder of sorts, tends to be expensive.

Posted: **Fri Jul 23, 2021 6:49 pm**

I plan on getting the copper coating supplies from them, I’m having issues getting a nice shiney finish without polishing the metal afterwards so I want to try plating with copper first then zinc on top of that. Anyway, it’s fun to try, looks like I have a meth lab in my shop

Had some good weather so went at the painting hard, pretty tired now this evening lol.

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Posted: **Fri Jul 23, 2021 6:50 pm**

The big project got some epoxy primer, hopefully top coat in the next couple days.

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Posted: **Fri Jul 23, 2021 8:38 pm**

What's the big project?

Posted: **Fri Jul 23, 2021 8:43 pm**

It’s a Case of course, 1394. Full size farm tractor, about 65hp, 4wd. Bought it a year ago with a con rod hanging out of the block.

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Posted: **Fri Jul 23, 2021 8:48 pm**

mac102004 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 8:43 pm It’s a Case of course, 1394. Full size farm tractor, about 65hp, 4wd. Bought it a year ago with a con rod hanging out of the block.

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Nice! I think a lot of us would enjoy if you take us on that trip as you fix it up. If you feel like starting a thread on it we have a "My other tractor is..." subforum.

Posted: **Sat Jul 24, 2021 10:39 am**

Did some wet sand blasting on the rear wheels. Ran out of sand, can finish up with wire wheel later

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Posted: **Sat Jul 24, 2021 3:39 pm**

mac102004 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 6:49 pm I plan on getting the copper coating supplies from them, I’m having issues getting a nice shiney finish without polishing the metal afterwards so I want to try plating with copper first then zinc on top of that. Anyway, it’s fun to try, looks like I have a meth lab in my shop

Had some good weather so went at the painting hard, pretty tired now this evening lol.

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That new paint looks great!

I totally hear you about the fun with plating stuff. I too always got a dull finish with all plating I tried. I thought that was normal so a little polishing didn't bother me. Curious about your outcome when you'll do it.

Posted: **Sat Jul 24, 2021 6:55 pm**

Primed the rear wheels with high build primer. Not sure if I’m just going to top coat them or try and smooth it out some. I got the rust off but it’s still a bit ugly after the PO had brush painted them what seems like yearly, for the entire life of the tractor. To really do it right they’d need to be completely stripped and I don’t want to get into that. I think we’ll have to not let perfection get in the way of good enough in this case. May have to look for some thicker white paint though, what I have is quite thin. Doesn’t hide much. Also forgot to tape a valve stem lol oops.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 27, 2021 6:04 pm**

Since the last post I finished painting the rear wheels and installed them, along with the fronts back on the tractor. The steering linkages were installed again for good now. I put the dash decal on as well.

Tonight I put the decals on the hood and tossed it on for a pic. Looks pretty good. Still a lot of work to do yet but going on vacation for a couple days, probably won’t be back at it until next week.

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Posted: **Tue Jul 27, 2021 10:02 pm**

It's beginning to look really good!

Posted: **Wed Jul 28, 2021 7:00 pm**

I agree - looks great so far! Getting me inspired to start one of mine..

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Posted: **Wed Jul 28, 2021 8:14 pm**

Chad wrote:I agree - looks great so far! Getting me inspired to start one of mine..

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Get started haha it goes pretty quick. Only been a little better than 2 months? since I bought this one. It’s no full blown sand blast everything new stainless bolts all over the place no bolt left unturned resto but she’s cleaning up nice

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Posted: **Wed Jul 28, 2021 9:16 pm**

mac102004 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 27, 2021 6:04 pm Since the last post I finished painting the rear wheels and installed them, along with the fronts back on the tractor. The steering linkages were installed again for good now. I put the dash decal on as well.

Tonight I put the decals on the hood and tossed it on for a pic. Looks pretty good. Still a lot of work to do yet but going on vacation for a couple days, probably won’t be back at it until next week.

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That's shaping up to be a great looking tractor.

Bob

Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

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