Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

@Eugen I'll be looking forward to your review of the torque adapter, that seems like a good solution for the torque you need, often the problem with torque multipliers is where to anchor the reaction arm.
Nothing more exciting than having the reaction arm slip when its under a lot of load.
The automatic ones (pneumatic, hydraulic or electrical) are nice in a production setting, but so expen$ive that you can almost see the supervisor cry when they are abused

To be honest, if money was not and issue there would be a torque multiplier in the shop too. The digital torque adapter arrived today and I used it to tighten the main bearing bolts to 155 ft lbs. Like people described, you need to go slowly or else you can over tighten. The device has intermittent beeping just before getting to the target torque, and changes to continuous beeping when you hit the target.

Last night I ground the valve seats on head number 2 and installed the valves. Here's one of the valves to bore you a little.


https://vimeo.com/850415902

I’ll have to keep that digital torque wrench in mind. So far I haven’t had the need. Good work. I didn’t find the video boring!

Eugen nice valve installation and video. Harry

Each sleeve must needs to not be raised above the block surface more than 0.006 inches. That a what the manual say.
I've been thinking about how to measure this for some time, as I don't have what they call a bridge micrometer. This is the contraption I came with last night.
A dial capable of 0.01 mm, on a flat powerful magnet on the block. Rotating the magnet on the surface will drop the dial tip from the edge of the sleeve to the block. As it is metric the deviation between the sleeve edge top and block will have to be below 0.152 mm. I tested this with a feeler gauge. It tends to measure a little more than the thickness of the feeler gauge, but I think I can work with this.

Eugen, your method will work. The variation you are seeing on the mic could be from the 0.01 mm gradation. A micrometer with a 0.001 mm gradation has a small plus/minus variation. I use both depending on the application. Another test is place the 0.006" feeler gauge against the sleeve. If it catches the lip of the sleeve then the sleeve is protruding above 0.000". Drag your fingernail across the sleeve to the gauge. If it catches on the feeler gauge, then the sleeve is below 0.006". Going the other way, if the fingernail catches on the sleeve then the sleeve is to high.
This is a simple cheat when there is a lack of tools or a mistrust of the tool in hand.

That is a really nice trick, haven't thought of it myself.

The sleeves are in. I suppose being the old sleeves, and they all use 0.005 shims, they fit nicely right in. The manual calls for petroleum jelly on the lower o-ring seals. Now that's something I didn't have and I tasked my to buy some from the drug store. They required a decent amount of pressing down but nothing exaggerated.
On to the pistons and rods. Not sure I get time today though...

Was able to get those pistons in. The rod caps are not torqued yet, next week. These will have been the biggest pistons I ever worked on.

It’s looking good! Excellent progress! I’m sure you’ll be happy when you get the engine buttoned up.

I might be happy and terrified at the same time. Terrified to turn it on

So now I got the oil pump to deal with. When I took it off some thin washers fell off. At the time I didn't pay much attention to it. Turns out they are important.