Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

I have a potential buyer for the green machine. I dragged it into the shop today with the 644 lbh. It didn’t even put up a fight! Examination today was not a pretty picture. Immediately I noticed oil dripping from oil cooler. Closer examination showed some kind of caulk on a end tube. Brake band mia and battery is charging, condition to be determined. Starter generator hanging on by one bolt. There was some motor oil in oil tank instead of hydraulic fluid that’s good. Oil also leaking from hydraulic drive motor. The list goes on and on. I think I need to fix what needs to be fixed to get it running and move it. It has green lipstick on this pig not even worth changing the lipstick color before selling. I’m not sure what size the Kohler is. PO told me 10hp but it looks very similar to a K321 that is on the 644 lbh and the 444. No ID that I have found on the engine or the GT. Enjoy the pics or not, I don’t want to make anyone puke. Harry

Cleaning up GT to get ready to sell. Can’t figure out model or engine ho, no ID located. Fenders look different with a flair. Anyone have any ideas? Harry

@Harry My guess is that they had chains on it at one point and that was done to the original fenders so they would not catch . I have had similar thoughts before .

Good observation David, that could very well be the answer. I searched the manuals to look at pics of the fenders and found none that were flared. I like the look but this machine is going out of here soon as I get it running. Harry

One thing is for sure Harry. It’s not a 16 hp k341. That engine only has 9 head bolts. That I can see. If you take the air cleaner off. Look in at the Venturi, at the top is a number. 26, or 28, or 30. If it’s a 26, it’s a 10 hp or 12 hp. If it’s a 28 it’s a 14 hp. 30 was only used on a 16 hp. But hard to say if the carburetor is original. This is only what I think I know, don’t take it to the bank

Thank you so much Noel. I didn’t know that about the Kohler engines. I will investigate and let you all know. I was trying to figure out the model number of the GT. 10 hp 220, 12 hp 222 and 14 hp 224. Harry

Cleaned the oil cooler today in my parts washer. A lot of grease and dirt were removed and caulk that was over the leak. Harry

propane1 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 07, 2024 2:49 pm One thing is for sure Harry. It’s not a 16 hp k341. That engine only has 9 head bolts. That I can see. If you take the air cleaner off. Look in at the Venturi, at the top is a number. 26, or 28, or 30. If it’s a 26, it’s a 10 hp or 12 hp. If it’s a 28 it’s a 14 hp. 30 was only used on a 16 hp. But hard to say if the carburetor is original. This is only what I think I know, don’t take it to the bank

Noel looks like #26 in the carburetor. Harry

Ya, so it’s a 10hp or a 12hp. If the carb is original.
If it didn’t have hydraulic deck lift it would be a 220, if it did it would be a 222. Just a thought.

Noel

propane1 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 4:03 am Ya, so it’s a 10hp or a 12hp. If the carb is original.
If it didn’t have hydraulic deck lift it would be a 220, if it did it would be a 222. Just a thought.

Noel

Noel, that’s what I was thinking. I was looking at manuals and since it was not a hydraulic lift model, I was thinking it was a 210 which has the 10 hp Kohler. It also does not have the EZ adjust clutch. I’m not sure what year they started producing the EZ put this one would be earlier. Thanks for your input Noel. Harry

propane1 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 4:03 am Ya, so it’s a 10hp or a 12hp. If the carb is original.
If it didn’t have hydraulic deck lift it would be a 220, if it did it would be a 222. Just a thought.

Noel

Both the 220 and the 222 could be ordered either with manual or hydraulic lift, the only difference was the horsepower. All 224's were built with hydraulic lift standard.

Bob

Harry wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 6:30 am

propane1 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 4:03 am Ya, so it’s a 10hp or a 12hp. If the carb is original.
If it didn’t have hydraulic deck lift it would be a 220, if it did it would be a 222. Just a thought.

Noel

Noel, that’s what I was thinking. I was looking at manuals and since it was not a hydraulic lift model, I was thinking it was a 210 which has the 10 hp Kohler. It also does not have the EZ adjust clutch. I’m not sure what year they started producing the EZ put this one would be earlier. Thanks for your input Noel. Harry

The 210 is not hydraulic drive, it has a 2300 series Peerless transaxle so this is likely a 220 or 222. The ez adjust clutch was first introduced on the 1978 production tractors.

Bob

I posted on CL that I was looking for a hood for the 200 series GT. Today someone contacted me saying he had two. This person had 6 200 series GT’s. Two he uses and four were parts tractors. I purchased one of the hoods for $20 which I thought was a deal. The worst was driving there and back in traffic. Harry

Harry wrote: ↑Tue Jun 11, 2024 8:17 pm I posted on CL that I was looking for a hood for the 200 series GT. Today someone contacted me saying he had two. This person had 6 200 series GT’s. Two he uses and four were parts tractors. I purchased one of the hoods for $20 which I thought was a deal. The worst was driving there and back in traffic. Harry

Nice score, Harry!

Nice score for sure . Looks in good shape and the head lights are still there.

That looks like a really nice hood for the price !
I'm right with you on the headaches of driving in traffic... We live to the west of Toronto and dread driving there. Our place up north is on the other side of Toronto and we'll get up at 4am and be out the door before 5 just so we can avoid morning rush hour and all the on the highway

Nice looking bonnet Harry.

Noel

Fan came in so I installed it today. I fixed the oil cooler and need to test it for leaks before installation. Harry

It rained this afternoon so I got a little shop time. Reworked the hydraulic line running between front loader lift cylinders. The original configuration prevented the hood from opening and closing. Put the hood on just to check the fit. Then removed the weight box and rear fenders to fix seat support that was bent. Also will be removing the tvc which seems to possibly have a broken spring in the spool. More work than I expected but I can’t sell it until it works right. That’s just the way I roll. Harry

Put some after dinner hours on this project. Sometimes you have to plan gather parts and then marathon it. Fixed the oil cooler leak a few weeks ago so mounted it and connected the hoses. Parts for exhaust were purchased so mounted muffler and made bracket to hold it. Started to get rid of some of that awlful green color. Still have to fix a few welds that were sub par and hopefully try to fire this Kohler up. Harry

@Harry Your getting it back into shape! Be careful though, once you get it done you won’t want to sell it!

Yes, I know how that goes. I own 2 600 series loaders so selling this one won’t be a problem. More work than I first expected, but I can’t sell it if it doesn’t work like it should. Heres a pic of the muffler. Harry

Looks like its coming along good Harry

I’m spending more time on the GT than I wanted, but I can’t help trying to make it better for who ever I sell it too. Pulled the head today and there is a little carbon build up. Removed the generator starter and coil. Added some welds where needed and repaired a few poor ones. But I’m not going to replace them all. Drained the oil from tcv and oil lines, getting ready to remove tcv. I can see in some areas who ever built it did a good job but others they did not. I’m slowly painting over the ugly green paint with rustoleum truck bed paint. It seems to hide a lot of the ugly welds. Mostly get it operational and get rid of the puke green. Harry

Your breathing new life into this one for sure!
This is going to be a nice tractor for the new owner!

I was thinking about this generator missing a bolt last night. So I took a look when I was in the shop this morning. Sure enough a broken bolt in the bracket. Harry

I think that’s one of the better heads Harry. High compression and the dip in it to send the explosion at the spark plug over the piston to give more push on the piston and less pressure at the valves.

Noel

A little update on GT, slowly getting a few things taken care of. This is the spark plug that was in it, I’ve never seen one like this. Has anyone else seen a spark plug like this? Almost all black where it was green. I’ll accent it with some flambeau to make it look more like a Case GT. Tcv is next, it’s been so humid I wasn’t looking forward to crawling under it. Rain is on its way so shop day is in order. Harry

Looks great @Harry - Is that copper anti-seize you've put on the gasket surfaces?

RoamingGnome wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2024 10:06 am Looks great @Harry - Is that copper anti-seize you've put on the gasket surfaces?

It’s a copper head gasket sealer made by permatex. I usually just spray the gasket, but this time I also applied it too the head and block surfaces. Harry

looking a lot better Harry . As for the E3 spark plugs , it is just a gimmick . A spark will only jump from the point of least resistance . As the resistance changes so will the location , but it is still only one spark .

Looks a lot better in black.

Harry wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2024 10:52 am

RoamingGnome wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2024 10:06 am Looks great @Harry - Is that copper anti-seize you've put on the gasket surfaces?

It’s a copper head gasket sealer made by permatex. I usually just spray the gasket, but this time I also applied it too the head and block surfaces. Harry

Are you re-installing a used head gasket and that's the reason for the sealer?

Bob

Bob, I have been using the sealer on head gaskets for a while now. Yes it is the old head gasket. I didn’t have a new one on hand so I reused the old one. Harry

Just a quick update on the not much green left machine. To be honest with you I’m starting to get attached to this little GT. I’m slowly starting to put parts back on it. Picked up some new gas line and drained the rear trans axle. I didn’t find any metal filings in the oil, but I’ll probably pull the gas tank and check inside. Works progresses but slower than expected. Harry

Is there a shield for between the engine and battery Harry. ?
She’s looking good, I kinda figured you begin to like the tractor.

Noel

Noel, no shield but I could make one like I’ve made before. The decision to keep or save will be made after it’s running and I see how it operates. I don’t believe I would have any problem selling it. Harry

I had to make a heat shield for my 224 when I got it. Battery and other things would be some hot. If no shield.


Noel

I was trying to get my grass cut, but we keep getting pop up showers. Yesterday was the same so I parked my grass cutting LT and crawled under the mostly black GT and removed the TCV. David like you said by removing the nuts from under the floor it came off with no problem. I also removed the gas tank to find many acorns. Now I should remove the cover on the top of the trans axle. Harry

Harry,

As close as you are I would get the cover off and check the diff bolts, if none are broken/bent then retorqued and go with it.

Bob

myerslawnandgarden wrote: ↑Thu Jul 25, 2024 10:22 pm Harry,

As close as you are I would get the cover off and check the diff bolts, if none are broken/bent then retorqued and go with it.

Bob

Agreed , Make a new gasket and put sealer on the through bolts. I beleave that's how the water gets into the diffs. I done that on everyone of mine and never had water get in like I have seen in some .

Had a few minutes today so I took the carb off for cleaning and service. Just one more thing that needed to be checked out. Harry

TGFR, thank God for Rain. I’ve been so busy lately I have not worked on this GT until today. Carburetor was installed with throttle and choke cables and air cleaner. Then the elephant in the shop was starring me in the face. The transaxle was removed from the GT, cover removed, oil was previously drained. Gears checked for wear, end play and of course bolts inspected for torque. All in good order but there was some spooge in the bottom but telescopic magnet found no filings. Propped up transaxle on floor jack with drain plug out and pan under it. Poured some diesel fuel into transaxle and used cleaning brush inside to remove spooge. Drain hole didn’t remove all spooge so had to elevate transaxle with drain hole down to remove dirty fuel. It wasn’t going in the bucket so I turned it then all hell broke loose. I lost my grip on it and it fell on the cardboard I put under the cleaning operation. Diesel fuel all over the floor and many old t-shirts to clean up the mess. Then took it outside and blew it off and out with compressed air. That’s all for today guy’s, stay turned for more accomplishments soon.

As I slowly check this GT over I can see it was painted power red or flambeau originally. Some parts like the transaxle it was yellow over that then red over the yellow and then green over the red and now black. If every owner painted it that would make me the fifth owner. Harry

Rained here today which we needed badly. Things were getting very dry and some leaves are already falling. Was in the shop putting the tcv back into the GT. Everything was going well until the last hydraulic hard line. I just couldn’t get the threads to start, what a PITA. I had to remove some of the previously installed hard lines and loosen the mounting bolts for the tcv. Finally caught and the fitting started. The last bolts for the hard lines to the drive motor now were difficult screw in but I persevered after a few magic four letter words. I must of crawled under and back out from under the GT numerous times, each time slower and slower. I’m glad that’s done so I can move on to reassemble the gas tank, fuel line, rear fenders and tires. It’s slowly getting back together. Harry

Great to see your progress @Harry . The tcv on my 444 was slightly damaged going past the indent for the attachment float, but I delayed replacing it because it was still functional. In retrospect I should have done it, but it was hard to find the time. Therefore I'm enjoying seeing you doing similar work.

Little by little I’m slowly getting 200 series loader together. I was trying to figure out if I was going to paint the hood. I figured I’ve put thus much time and effort into it, I may as well. Here are dome pics to show you where I’m at. Harry

Sure is looking a lot better than it was when you found it!

@Harry That's a very respectable little loader you've been putting back into operation

Progress on this little guy has been slow. To many irons in the fire and two vacations slowed work to a crawl. But I keep pushing through and it’s come down to a punch list of little things that add up to more time. Here are the latest pics that show not a perfect little GT, but a lot better than the fist pics I posted. Harry

Looking good Harry

look so much better Harry . I am sure there is a hobby farmer that would love that .

Great looking and will be very handy for someone. Nice job Harry.

Noel

It is looking great Harry. How is the lift cylinder diameter effecting the lift speed?

Spike I have not got that far but close. I remember you mentioned that when you were here. I had the engine running but only by squirting gas in the carb. Gas tank was cleaned, new fuel line, new fuel filter but no gas to fuel pump. Probably a bad diaphragm and news a rebuild kit. I’ll post results of cylinder lift time when I get that far. Harry

Anyone , have any idea what those lift cylinders are off of ? They look to me something like a large plow rotation cylinders . I don't think they will make the lift as slow as you would expect see as they are short and chocked up on the the loader arms . No down pressure with no weight in the bucket might stress a man patients especially when oil is cold . But the proof will be in the test drive , it might perform better than expected .

Great observation Dave. I did not catch the cylinder mounting leverage. The stroke length was abvious, but I didn't clue in.

I got the Mini GT running today after a few minor adjustments. The loader arms went up and down quite rapidly but it was not steadily moving, kind of jumpy. I moved the travel control and drove out of the shop but then I moved it to reverse and it didn’t move. Went to forward and it didn’t move. Changed to low on the rear differential and it went forward and back but kind of jerky not smoothly. Could be something with the pump because both the loader arm cylinders and the hydrive doesn’t seem to work right. Any ideas guys? Harry

check the hydra oil
level and for foaming .

Oil level was good David. I kept looking for air bubbles thinking the system was drained and new oil added. I saw no air bubbles or foaming. Still thinking about this. Maybe I should check the lovejoy connection to the oil pump. Harry

Been working on the mini loader a bit. I removed tge lovejoy coupler from the engine crank. It was securely in place so no problem there. The pump is another story. It appears that the engine has to be moved forward to give me enough room to get my hands on the coupler half. Many things had to be taken off to move the engine forward. Engine oil drain pipe goes through frame so draining engine oil. It just takes time to make it happen. Harry

I removed the drain pipe from the engine and got the engine to move forward. This has left room to work on the pump lovejoy coupling. I tried yesterday to put a puller on the coupling under the pump support but not enough room to get puller around coupling. Then I tried to put a larger puller around the pump support and slide the coupler and the pump support off together. No luck puller arms were to short to fit around pump support. I was trying to get this off without draining the oil and removing the pump. If the pump is bad I’ll have to remove it anyways. Any suggestions on removing the coupling off the pump shaft? Harry

@Harry pulling the pump is not a pleasant job but you are almost there. The pump condition is suspect given the symptoms you described. I would pull it and bench test it at this point. Looking back on the first 646 restoration, it would have paid a lot of peace of mind after the fact. I didn't dig deep enough and am left wondering if I have pump or motor issues.

Spike, thanks for the suggestion bench testing the pump. I don’t have the equipment for doing that and maybe just replace the pump. Harry

Harry, even just opening up the gear pump and looking for excessive wear would be a good use of time Gear Pumps are a pretty basic design with not too many moving parts - looking for wear and/or cavitation should be pretty straightforward...

I’ve never taken one of these gear pimps apart to look inside, but this one will be my first to do so.
Harry

When I got the Case 224 the pump was bad. So I got another pump and put it on. Luckly for me it worked and lucky for me it’s still working after two mishaps with the pto lever. , any way, I took the non working pump apart. All chewed up inside. So no good.

Noel

propane1 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 21, 2024 9:27 am When I got the Case 224 the pump was bad. So I got another pump and put it on. Luckly for me it worked and lucky for me it’s still working after two mishaps with the pto lever. , any way, I took the non working pump apart. All chewed up inside. So no good.

Noel

Thanks for your insight Noel. I’ve had a few gear oil pumps apart that were on V8 Chevy’s but not any GT ones. It will be a learning experience for me. Harry

Jumped into the dirty work today. Removed parts I didn’t want to but had to remove the pump. Lovejoy was secure on pump shaft, so it appears I’ll take it apart to check for wear. Harry

Lots of fun Harry.

Noel

Pulled the pump apart this morning after a bath in the parts washer. Looks good with limited wear on the gears and pump body. Guess I’ll put it all together and pay close attention to the lovejoy connection. Still not sure why the drive motor and loader lift arms would intermittently work. Harry

@Harry is there wear on the end plates and a bit of pitting on them?

I’ve had a couple of gear pumps apart but they were both obviously bad. One was one my Case 830 and luckily I was able to have it repaired as they are hard to find. The other one is still in pieces in a box somewhere on a shelf in the shop! Not sure why I kept it!

There should be a procedure to check tolerance on that while you have it apart. I’m hoping someone on here can let us know what the tolerances should be and the process.

I’m interested in what you find, you’re making great progress on this tractor!

Harry,

Most worn pumps do not exhibit the intermittent operation that you mention unless there is a problem with the lovejoy coupling. Based on your documentation, the coupling halves look good. The most worn out pump that you will ever find still provides the rated flow (which is the cubic inch displacement between each gear cavity x the rpm of the input) until a load is applied which causes the output flow to drop, slowing the movement of the tractor, lift etc. Not intermittent flow, just slower flow.

My suggestion would be to check for a restriction on the suction side of the pump, possibly a suction hose which is delaminating on the inside. Also, most of the hydraulic reservoirs had a baffle inside to keep oil at the reservoir outlet during hard turns. I have seen the spot welds securing the baffle break letting the baffle float around and block the reservoir outlet.

Just a thought,

Bob

Spike188 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 23, 2024 5:40 pm @Harry is there wear on the end plates and a bit of pitting on them?

They are actually just dirty. The hydraulic oil I removed from the system was very nasty. Harry

myerslawnandgarden wrote: ↑Sat Nov 23, 2024 10:41 pm Harry,

Most worn pumps do not exhibit the intermittent operation that you mention unless there is a problem with the lovejoy coupling. Based on your documentation, the coupling halves look good. The most worn out pump that you will ever find still provides the rated flow (which is the cubic inch displacement between each gear cavity x the rpm of the input) until a load is applied which causes the output flow to drop, slowing the movement of the tractor, lift etc. Not intermittent flow, just slower flow.

My suggestion would be to check for a restriction on the suction side of the pump, possibly a suction hose which is delaminating on the inside. Also, most of the hydraulic reservoirs had a baffle inside to keep oil at the reservoir outlet during hard turns. I have seen the spot welds securing the baffle break letting the baffle float around and block the reservoir outlet.

Just a thought,

Bob

Thanks for the input Bob, I will certainly check the hose and tank for the baffle. I do know the suction hose is a double hose with wire braid inside. It was very hard to get off the pump and cut my hand from the wire. Tank side was not so difficult to remove. A few days off of this project and I’ll dive back in. Harry

It’s getting closer to fired this little GT up again. The throttle and choke cables never worked correctly so I found some time to fix the situation yesterday. I had a throttle choke cable laying around from some old machine. So I used that and now seems to be working smoothly. Harry

Today I put the battery back in connected the cables turned the key, nothing. Pulled the battery and started checking wires and found one from the positive side of ammeter not connected. Checked a few other wires from relay, voltage regulator according to a wiring diagram and these are all messed up. Before I got into the hydraulic pump and lovejoy this GT started and ran. So I pulled all the wires off the switch, relay and voltage regulator. Started to rewire according to the diagram and color code. This is not what I expected, but I will know that it is correct when done. Harry

That’s sorta strange Harry, could be Gremlins.


Noel

The ignition switch has been rewired and it runs fine. I think it’s time to step away from this project and concentrate on the 646 cab. Installed the hood with light wiring done, took a few pics and switched places with the 646. Musical GT’s yesterday moving three out if shop, then two from lean to into shop. All went well it just took awhile getting them all started and jockeying them around. Harry

That is looking really good @Harry - Hard to remember what it looked like when you first started on it

Break time. Looking good Harry. Did you get the hydraulics working the way you want. Or did I miss that some how. ?

Noel

propane1 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 16, 2025 5:31 am Break time. Looking good Harry. Did you get the hydraulics working the way you want. Or did I miss that some how. ?

Noel

I was still having a issue with the hydraulics and decided thats a fight for another day. Harry

I pushed the little loader in the shop a week ago. I did a few improvements on it like a seat slider for driver comfort. Tried to start it and could only get it to pop. Fuel filter is full of gas, spark at plug, compression in cylinder. Still a conundrum but not willing to give up considering it ran fine when parked last fall. Harry

@Harry is it low compression issues?

I put my finger in the spark plug hole while cranking and it pushed my finger out. So the valve is not sticking. I’ll have to put a gauge on it. Harry

Harry , drain the fuel out of the carb bowl and let fresh fuel from the tank in . Try again .
Check the spark strength with an old plug with the ground tap cut off . It should be able to jump from centre to outer ring . If not , clean point and possibly replace condenser . A leaky condenser will drag down the out put voltage .