Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Tue Mar 28, 2023 8:36 am Bob , how much counter weight do you need ?
That being said , if the down riggers were on an angle back wards a few degrees instead of 180 degrees apart then that would help take some of the front rear load off . I am thinking about 15 per side . Then the amount of counter balance would be more for steering . Food for thought . enjoy your breakfast .

I was just musing over that yesterday. I saw that some companies do that, and I didn't see exactly what it accomplished. But you're right, it moves the balance point backward when you're digging, which lessens the need for front counterweight. Very cool!

I'll incorporate that in. The D100 uses that big spur gear arrangement for swinging, which gives it substantially more swing than most modern hoes. I'll just mount the outriggers at whatever backward angle puts them just forward out of striking range from the boom when it's fully swung.

Thanks!

Bob

I don't see the backhoe bucket teeth in the parts manual.

Anybody know what type/size/nomenclature/brand I'm after? I have two intact teeth and one well-worn tooth mount. I'm guessing I need to replace at least that tooth mount, so I either need to find a set of 3 mounts and teeth, or find one that's very similar in size to what's on there.

Bob

@thebuildist Davis D100 parts are still available through a distributor in Toronto. I have received next day shipment on bushings, pins, and bumpers. I am on service calls the next 2 days and will try to get you the info tonight.

Spike188 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 28, 2023 11:54 am @thebuildist Davis D100 parts are still available through a distributor in Toronto. I have received next day shipment on bushings, pins, and bumpers. I am on service calls the next 2 days and will try to get you the info tonight.

Please share this info with myself as well.
Thank you in advance!

thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Mar 28, 2023 10:35 am I don't see the backhoe bucket teeth in the parts manual.

Anybody know what type/size/nomenclature/brand I'm after? I have two intact teeth and one well-worn tooth mount. I'm guessing I need to replace at least that tooth mount, so I either need to find a set of 3 mounts and teeth, or find one that's very similar in size to what's on there.

Bob

Can you build up the mount with weld ??

Yes. I did some digging (no pun intended) and it's a crimp on style. Based on its width and angle I think it must be an "H&L" size 2a. So I've ordered one of those from eBay, and that tooth is either going to fit easy or by persuasion. One or the other.

Bob

thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Mar 28, 2023 2:09 pm Yes. I did some digging (no pun intended) and it's a crimp on style. Based on its width and angle I think it must be an "H&L" size 2a. So I've ordered one of those from eBay, and that tooth is either going to fit easy or by persuasion. One or the other.

Bob

Remember , never force it . Get a BIGGER . And both hands on the handle .

the latest design drawings for anyone interested. It shows in a little more detail the concept I'm working on.


I'm hoping to do this work without removing the rear end. You may be curious how I intend to turn the OD of the outer axle tube boss, with it still on the machine.

Simple: I'm going to fabricate a cutter head that bolts to the wheel hub. Remove the wheel, install the cutter, start her up and run the machine to spin the cutter in perfect concentric circles around the OD of that boss. It'll be fiddly, but I think it should work.

The other pure prep that I need to do is modify my 3pt hitch. I built it to accomodate a cylinder that has about 8.5 inches of stroke, which is way more than strictly necessary. But the extra doesn't hurt, except that to make the too-long cylinder fit in place, I had to have the butt end of the cylinder hanging well down below the bottom of the differential housing. And that was fine, but now I need to slide this crossmember through that space as I back up to the hoe assembly. So I need to pull that cylinder off and shorten the housing. I think it'll be easier to cut off the butt end and weld it back on than to cut off and re-machine the threaded gland end. I just wish I knew the original shape of the welded in plug. I'm sure it must slide in/register in the cylinder somehow, and I'd like to just machine off the weld so that I can start with the same clean/square surpfaces that the factory uses. Perhaps I can learn a bit about it on YouTube. But once the cylinder itself is shortened, it's trivial to cut off the rod to size.

Bob

Seems really well thought out Bob. Thanks for sharing the thought process and drawings - can't wait for the progress updates

I'm looking in the transaxle service manual to figure out where, exactly, the outer axle shaft bearing is located.

And I think I'm seeing that it only has a bushing. Is that correct, the rear axles are in bushings, not bearings? Do the lbh transaxles have bearings?

Bob