Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

If anyone cares to check it out, I'm filming a series on building and adding a loader to a Case GT. (late model 4020PS)

I currently have 3 of the what will be either 5 or 6 videos completed. The next video will cover the actual steel structure, and I expect to have that work done later this week, so that video out in a couple weeks or thereabout.

Questions/comments are welcome here, especially as the YouTube viewers are mostly unfamiliar with CCI.

Bob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZLoPwk ... TKYswXu40K

Thank you Bob for joining our little place and for sharing! I will watch with interest!

Welcome Bob, good to have you here. Watched a few minutes of your first video, can't wait to sit and watch them when I have time to enjoy. nice 4020.
Tim

I've almost finished part one and am enjoying it. Your attention to detail and the ability to explain it all is quite astounding.

One question, What is the reason for using the bronze bushing? - are they superior in this application to other solutions?

Bob - I've only been able to watch a little of part 1, but very much looking forward to watching more! Thanks for bringing us along.

Chad

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Jul 28, 2021 12:39 pm I've almost finished part one and am enjoying it. Your attention to detail and the ability to explain it all is quite astounding.

One question, What is the reason for using the bronze bushing? - are they superior in this application to other solutions?

Great question!

Of the available options (bare steel on steel, some kind of bushing, or full-on cone or roller bearing) I figured that the bushing was the best option.

The bearings can carry heavier load and last longer, but the cost and hassle and physical size just rules them out.

Bushings should wear better than bare steel on steel, and more importantly they're easily replaceable down the road when they do wear out.

Believe it or not, I used Ebay for research. I simply typed in "tractor steering spindle bearings bushings" and found that oil impregnated bronze were used in this application by several manufacturers.

I figure if it works for them, it should work for me.

Bob

Great practical way of doing it. I did a little research this afternoon and indeed it's the better choice. Nicely done!

Chad wrote: ↑Wed Jul 28, 2021 7:03 pm Bob - I've only been able to watch a little of part 1, but very much looking forward to watching more! Thanks for bringing us along.

Chad

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Thanks Chad!

ÀH guy wrote: ↑Mon Jul 26, 2021 10:24 pm Welcome Bob, good to have you here. Watched a few minutes of your first video, can't wait to sit and watch them when I have time to enjoy. nice 4020.
Tim

Thanks Tim!

Working on video part 4 now (loader structure build) Here's a sneek peak for all you insiders:

Final steps will be hydraulics hookup (valve, lines, and reservoir mods if necessary) and after that modifying the attachments (bucket and forks) to fit the detachable adapter on the front of the loader. Maybe one big video, or two smaller ones, hard to say from here.

As you can see in the photos, the loader itself is detachable and will "hang" from what is essentially an oversized steel sawhorse when not in use. Drive under the sawhorse, attach the back of the loader to the sawhorse, pull two pins, undo 4 hydraulic disconnects, and back out from under the loader. Installation will be the reverse.

I'm getting pretty pumped, the closer it gets.

I'll go ahead and answer the obvious question: There are several holes in the flat bar straps that are reinforcing the bend in the loader arms. Those holes serve no purpose: the repurposed steel flat bars that I had on hand had some pre-punched holes in them. There was no structural benefit to filling the holes in, so I just left them there. Now that I look at them with fresh eyes they look cheesy. I may go back and fill them in just for aesthetics.

I'll follow up with more comments but one thing I'm thinking right now is why make it detachable when you're this serious about a loader.

Must feel great to have progress and seeing the project on its last mile. Given the amount of detail you think of and describe I have to admit I wish you also had it as a write up like the blog page I posted on my Kohler rebuild. Much easier to digest and take time going through it. Not saying videos are bad, because there are things that you can best show with a clip. I think a combination would be ideal.

I'll try to make it a point to go through and do that. It's not too hard to pull a pictorial write-up out of videos. But it's impossible to go the other way!

Eugen wrote: ↑Mon Aug 30, 2021 10:53 pm ...why make it detachable when you're this serious about a loader?

Great question.

It did take a lot of extra thinking and work to go the detachable route. But I only have room for a single tractor, and its primary job will always be "lawnmower."

So I didn't want to make my lawnmower permanently heavier, harder to maneuver, harder to store, etc. (My shed is just deep enough to close the door behind the tractor as it is. If I add a front bucket, I can no longer close and lock the shed door. And that's a bad plan around here. So I'll store the tractor itself in the secure shed, and leave the loader under a tarp. No one is going to steal a random loader assembly.

And I didn't have the luxury of just "making this one a loader" and then picking up something else to be the mower. As I say, I only have room for one, so that one has to do double duty.

Due to the extra work, I'll admit it was very tempting to just build it as non-detachable and then go back and make it detachable later "if I really felt like it." But the more I analyzed it, the more I realized that it's much more difficult to make it one way and then go cut out half your work and re-make it another way. Too much work, too demoralizing. The time to do it is on the front end. The more I thought about it, it was either build it detachable, or don't build it at all. So detachable it was.

It took eternity, but the Phase 4 video is FINALLY out:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p5dVRWHrzo

If nothing else, it'll cure insomnia!

I have watched and enjoyed your videos. Wish you had something like a blog/journal because it's hard to navigate a video to minute x:20 to find that particular something you're talking about. But the videos are enjoyable nonetheless. Looking forward to finding the time now to watch this next installment. Thank you for sharing Bob!

Actually stumbled across the video's the other night and watched them. I left a comment on the latest one, to which you replied. Anyway figured I'd stop in here and see if you weren't a member before I shared the video links here myself, sure enough you are.

Great build, keep them coming.

@thebuildist Are you going to have pedal on it? I'm very curious how you'll do that.

Eugen wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 11:34 am @thebuildist Are you going to have pedal on it? I'm very curious how you'll do that.

Do you mean foot-based travel control? If so, I've thought about it, but I don't currently have it officially planned.

thebuildist wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 12:15 pm
Do you mean foot-based travel control? If so, I've thought about it, but I don't currently have it officially planned.

Yes sir, that's what I meant

Very curious how you'll do that. After working with my 644 I would change all my tractors to that if I could.

thebuildist wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 12:15 pm

Eugen wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 11:34 am @thebuildist Are you going to have pedal on it? I'm very curious how you'll do that.

Do you mean foot-based travel control? If so, I've thought about it, but I don't currently have it officially planned.

Somewhere I have pic.s of how I did it on Frankie . Kept the handle but made it removable so I can still use it when needed and do still often . I will see if I can find them . I can tell you with a loader on without foot controls you will need 4 hands too run all the controls at once .
Dave

You know how I'd like it to be, now that I thought about it for a bit? Currently the 2xx and 4xx use the lever on the left for travel control, and the further from middle position the higher the speed. Well, I'd like to keep the lever on the left, but instead of controlling the speed, I'd like it to just set the max speed, both forward and reverse. Sort of like dial in a speed. Then when you depress the pedal the tractor would start moving, in the direction the lever is set, and up to the speed the lever has set.

Of course, it would be nice to be a simple mechanism that is easy to maintain and last forever.

foot control pic.s Dave

foot control pics . Dave

I had that thought. I figure once I've got the loader itself working I'll revisit the travel foot control. If I do it, I'll do it the way Grummy did on his data-cut.com webpage back in the day. That webpage is gone, but I remember how he did it.

Bob

I just saw your pics. I'm going to look them over carefully, wrap my brain around what you've done. I've never seen it done that way, I think I might like it.

@DavidBarkey Thank you! But I don't understand how you change forward/reverse. Lever?

He has two pedals, push one to go forward, push the other to go backward

Bob

Ah thank you!



Here's an example of a tractor have, that someone else modified. Yet another way of doing it. I can't say I'm a big fan of this. I think that wanting to come to a rest from forward is easy to go past neutral and into reverse, making it less safe than other methods. But here it is, for completeness and maybe for something to avoid.

thebuildist wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 3:58 pm He has two pedals, push one to go forward, push the other to go backward

Bob

Yes , Sorry I felt it would be easier for me to answer questions , If you magnify the pic. you will see that the reverse (round pedal ) moves the forward ( long skinny one ) up through slotted linkage . The forward pedal depressed down move you forward . The forward pedal bolt on to the cross shaft which is supported by UHMP ( white plastic bearing blocks ) at each end machined on an angle to match the tower .

Dave

Foot controls . Looking at above pic you will see the lower half of the original lever and the cross link connected with hiem ends . The linkage down to the valve was also upgraded . I attached at the brake spring return bracket on the control lever . Depending on the the control valve your tractor has the detente will need to be modified to a self centring( that is what I did on mine ). others will need the neutral safety switch insulator modified . The important thing is that it returns to neutral when released automatically. retaining the original control lever shaft kept the neutral safety switch .

Dave

Thanks @DavidBarkey, now I understand