Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

My dad offered to buy me a shed to store my tractor. I could use some size and feature recommendations from the experienced experts on the forum. I have a feeling the size needed is probably more than he was offering to spend meaning I'll likely be contributing to the purchase.

List of equipment to store:
Ingersoll 4016
RM48 deck setup for open chute/hydravac
MF248 (RM48) deck setup for mulching
Hydravac bagger system
SB48 snowcaster, 52" wide with extension wings
Berco 44" snowblower
Wheel weights and chains
Rear weight box, I think Ariens? It's a 15-18" cube.
CB34 soft tractor cab, disassembled
Brinley tow behind spreader, 200+lb variety
Tow behind dethatcher, 40" wide?
1990's Craftsman slice aerator, 40" wide? Back when they were still built decent...
Couple boxes and buckets of tractor parts...
Johnny bucket and lift mule, 40" wide?
3.5kW inverter generator

Other requirements:
Tractor needs to fit through the door... With the RM48 and hydravac its probably 60-62" wide. I don't have the hydravac mounted, so I don't know the exact width.
I wouldn't mind the ability to get and RM60 deck in and out someday... Those are probably 72" wide with the chute.
Ability to support the above equipment
Storage for my yard tool collection

Nice to have:
Workbench
Storage in the loft
I can dream right?

I don’t know that I would call myself an expert, but, having done this for awhile a few things come to mind.

I would say what ever size you land on it will never be big enough, ask me how I know!

Keep in mind the items you listed are what you want to store now. You will likely have more things you’d like to put in there in the future. I’m my case I have no control, things just keep finding their way home with me. You may be more disciplined than I am though.

You may have already done this, but if not don’t forget to check if you have any restrictions from an HOA or your town. It would be a shame to find out someone out there doesn’t want you to have a shed on your own property.

I think it would be a good idea to grab a tape measure and head over to your local big box store. Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc. they usually have a good supply of out buildings on display on their lots, good place to take measurements and visualize how your items could be stored in a given space. Also sometimes they will have close out sale, you might find a bargain! If not as least you’ll get an idea of what dimension will work for you and your lot.

You may also want to think about the options of power to the building as well. It usually doesn’t take long after the building is all done before a guy wishes he had some light or a receptacle or two! Of course that could be done anytime in the future.

If you can, take us along with you! Even though we can’t be there swinging hammers we can sure throw you some support from afar.

It can't be too big. I find I'm squeezing through tight walkways at times in a 3 story bank barn that's something like 30 x 70... (that's not bragging, I'm just fighting the hording tendency)

Seriously though, you do want to get as many sq/ft as you can can the first time. If its a choice between putting in electric, and more space, get more space. You can always add electric later. Get the biggest doors you can. You don't ever want to squeeze anything through a door. You will mess up at some point if its close. I'm only 52, but getting turned around to thread a tractor in the barn basement isn't as easy as it once was... Time makes everything more difficult. Plus as mentioned, you will end up with more stuff in there, and it will creep toward your parking spot making it more of a challenge.

My previous house had a 16 x 22 interior garage. That gets beyond most "shed" sizes. However, it was in fact the perfect size for what you're talking about. I had storage for the yard stuff, a workbench, and associated mechanics tools, and just enough room to pull apart a 646BH to work on, and be able to walk around it comfortably. Most of the time I parked a full size truck in there, but it was nice to have when a tractor went down...

Like the guys have already said , It will only be big enough for 5 minutes and then you will want more room . If you can , the most economical yet secure shed is a used "Sea Can" / shipping container . You can pretty them up with paint or strap and siding as you wish . The top can be repurposed into a deck area or build more on top . A simple gravel bed and post blocks to support it . They come in many sizes and can be customised in many ways . With the cost of building material now they give more square footage for $$$ than wood and provide superior protection . I would recommend you look into a 20 footer . That 8x8 x20 long with a pair of lockable doors on the end .

I agree with what @DavidBarkey suggested - the absolute quickest, fastest form of instant gratification is to get a 20' 'New' or 'One Run' shipping container dropped into the spot of your choice... Ideally - have a bit of space around it so that you can get a second container when your storage needs grow - (Don't be like Gerry, - leave space between them... It's going to be more challenging moving a 'loaded' container sideways 10' )

And - if you leave an 8'-10' gap between them then you can put trusses across the top, and have covered storage space in between - perfect for summertime 'Drive-in' storage of a tractor with mower deck attached. You could also pre-wire the shipping container with an extension cord end - so that when you want power - just open the doors and plug in your container to an extension cord from your house... We got 2 for locked, secure storage up at our property - one for household stuff, the other is 'dirty, greasy, garage' stuff... There is lots of space inside them - inside dimensions of a 20' container is roughly - 19 feet 4 inches long, 7 feet 9 inches wide, and 7 feet 10 inches high...

I love my containers, but they are subject to condensation issues. I've seen them spray foamed to deal with that, but I don't know if it works...
You don't get that with a wood structure in the same way.

Toolslinger wrote: ↑Thu Aug 14, 2025 11:50 am I love my containers, but they are subject to condensation issues. I've seen them spray foamed to deal with that, but I don't know if it works...
You don't get that with a wood structure in the same way.

ture , but ventilation helps a lot with that .

I agree with JSinMo, check with the locals to see what they allow. In my area they wouldn’t allow the size I wanted because my property was to small. I needed 5 acres to get over the 30’ X 40’ that I settled for. I only have 3 acres, and needed to pay for a variance and go before the zoning board to get approval. Every area is different so check first. I found out after the fact that some people build what they want and when the board finds out, they fine you and you get to keep what you built. Local politics at it’s best. Harry

Harry wrote: ↑Fri Aug 15, 2025 6:05 pm I agree with JSinMo, check with the locals to see what they allow. In my area they wouldn’t allow the size I wanted because my property was to small. I needed 5 acres to get over the 30’ X 40’ that I settled for. I only have 3 acres, and needed to pay for a variance and go before the zoning board to get approval. Every area is different so check first. I found out after the fact that some people build what they want and when the board finds out, they fine you and you get to keep what you built. Local politics at it’s best. Harry

I learned dealing with gravel pit owned by multi-billinon $$ corporation , sometimes you are better off to beg forgiveness than ask permission .

I appreciate the input guys. Seems like everyone agrees, get as much space as you can. My apologies for posting and never responding. Its been a busy week.

I'm trying to get some projects done this fall including getting a shed. I've been using PTO for half day Fridays at work which allows me a few extra hours for projects.

I've picked out a lofted barn style shed with 8x7 garage door (could go 9x7... but it looks funny on a 12' wide shed). I was planning a 12'x20' shed with lofts but when planning where things would go I got worried about having enough space to work on stuff. Probably going with 12'x24'. After seeing the standard work bench and shed options, I decided to build my own. I'd like them bigger and stronger to hold my tractor stuff. This will also give more time to plan where things will go. I've also seen some neat DIY hoist/track setups for sheds/barns. Floor thickness, joist and truss upgrades will all be purchased (upgrade cost is minimal).

TBD on the site prep. Crusher run stone and limestone mix was recommended. I may do it with the Johnny bucket. Lead time is 7-9 weeks.

One area of concern is shed security... also need to pull a shed permit.

I'm open to suggestions from the experienced guys

Front Side garage entrance Lofts Floor plan

Are you going to run hydro to it ? If yes , motion lights on outside and inside with real or fake cameras is a good deturant . Locks only keep out amature thieves . Use a man door for entrance and put locks on inside out of sight . If no hydro solar , solar lights and real or fake wifi cameras are available . Have the ramp on the inside made to fold out on hinge or perminate outside from patio slabs on built up earth .
Use large 1/2" plywood gussets on both sides on the trusses at peak and mid joint . Use collar ties at centre of mid joint on trusses and use the gussets to fasten them . This will give you a high ceiling point to attach lighting ect and dramatically increase snow load capacity.

The shed dealer recommended the metal roof since snow should slide right off it. Actually looks decent with a regular door.

Floor to Ceiling height, if necessary only in one end, allows you to use Pallet Racking to store things vertically. Mower Desks can go on pallet racking, as can snowcasters, etc.

I would spend the $$ for steel siding and roof off the bat, then you don't have to repaint it every 7 years. I would agree you need to push for as much square footage as possible. Leave out interior walls and the ceiling, etc. Also compacted re-cycled asphalt millings will make a really nice floor, that 5 years from now is a perfect base to pour a cement floor on top of.

The shed's base is made up of a pair of 4"x6" skids that run length wise and in my case I opted for the 2"x6" joists on 12" centers with 3/4" flooring. Standard option is Joists on 16" centers with 5/8" flooring. The upgrade wasn't a whole lot more money. Recommend base for the shed is "crusher run" which is basically a crushed stone/stone dust mix that compacts hard and drains well. The shed guys recommended somebody to build the base locally for around $1700. I'm likely going to dig the base out with my johnny bucket and order the 3/4" processed gravel/stone dust mix locally. Its $52/yard delivered. I'll likely target the gravel base being 4-6" deep and extend the gravel about a foot beyond the shed. I'm also going to build the ramp to the garage door and put gravel under the ramp. That's my plan for now and as usual I'm open to ideas.

Ideally, you want to strip any topsoil off before you start laying your base. Depending on your specific location, it might be more than the 6". If you had to go further, you could start with small gravel before you go to crusher run to give it a little more ability to drain. Probably just as easy to stick to all crush though, it's not like you're putting in a skyscraper.

Crusher will also build, and pack fine on its own for the ramp. No real need for anything beyond that unless you want something like pavers on top.

Lock it all together with a plate compactor and it will stay there just about forever.

I am assuming the floor joist are pressure treated or some other rot resistant lumber . Consider this for the floor , instead of wood lay patio stones on the joist . You do need to plan ahead as the joints must land on the joists . I did this for my shed at the old place in Barrie to avoid permits and worked fabulously. Never ware or rot . Critters can not chew through it , drains through the joints . I wood put joist guard membrane on top of the joist first and use blocking to keep the joist centre from twisting or shifting . This was done in an 8x12 shed with 8 foot ceiling and brick veneer on front . It sat on a dozen deck blocks and gravel . This it at the old place in Barrie.

Our baby barn is 24 years old. The floor up to the time of the shop build was 2 x 2 pavers and the shed sat on them.The base of the shed is treated 4×4's and now sits on gravel. The original intent was to cut an access door above the roll-up door for attic storage. The attic is still used for storage but accessed from inside the shed. The shed footprint is 10 x10. The hight was partially due to being a shed for forklift storage.The 646L with 3 point hitch just fits with a few inches to spare.

I laid out where my shed is going this weekend. I decided to rotate it 45 degrees so that it faces my house. This also leaves some storage space out behind the shed. While it looks pretty flat, the ground level changes 5.5" over about 35'.
I wasted quite a bit of Friday afternoon and Saturday afternoon figuring out property lines, where to put the shed and making it reasonably square. I also discovered the neighbors behind me built their hedge on my property. It's close in the back corner but out at the road 250 feet away its 30' over the property line. Added bonus their 2nd shed is also over the property line. This is about 3700 square feet of land. That neighbor is off to the left in the 1st photo.

The hedge in the 1st photo is on the line but out front they are also 12' over the property line. This is a different neighbor. I'm on a corner of two streets.

Stuff build on your land by a neighbor can be a sticky situation if been there a long time uncontested . Our Municipality where I am has interactive Sat. maps available to all online that show property lines , terrain lines ect on the Satellite images . I found them to be accurate to with inches of the survey . Close enough that when the Pit next door was locating for a new fence they were off by 4 feet onto my property and proved it with theses maps . Sure enough when they had survey teem come out I was right to within inches .

I've got 3 different sources showing the neighbors are on my property.

I've used the neighborhood plot plans to measure my lot from my property markers. These measurements show the neighbors are about 30' over the property line by the road.

My septic as built drawing shows the distance to the center of the lot line which is 17' beyond the hedge.

I also found we have interactive GIS maps where I can measure and overlay satellite imagery. These maps confirm the above measurements. I'll see if I can do a screenshot without any address info.

My backyard is on the right. This is my other lot line. My yard is on the bottom right. The neighbor behind me is presently having a dispute with the neighbor on top in the image above. When the neighbor above bought the house 18 months ago, it was discovered that the previous neighbor built their pool house and part of the patio on the neighbor behinds property.