Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

I have not seen those. We also use these splices at work. Basically you install it on the wires and hit it with a heat gun. The splice heat shrinks, glues itself in place and then solders itself in place. I just picked a random one on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Kuject-Connector ... 126&sr=8-3#

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Aug 09, 2024 8:48 pm I have not seen those. We also use these splices at work. Basically you install it on the wires and hit it with a heat gun. The splice heat shrinks, glues itself in place and then solders itself in place. I just picked a random one on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Kuject-Connector ... 126&sr=8-3#

The Burndy BISR1/0 was nice for being able to splice different gauges of wire in the same plug - wires go in the ends and then there are set screws under the upper plugs for retaining the wires, and they are re-useable if a wire downstream needs replacing- The heat shrink solder splices are great to work with to work with, - I'm old school (and cheap) if there is enough room to work, old fashioned solder, and 2 pieces of heat shrink, - 1 the same size as insulation removed for the splice, and the second longer section to seal it all up and make it really weather proof - I'll do this for personal stuff, it's way too much fiddly work for most jobs when time = money...

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Aug 09, 2024 8:48 pm I have not seen those. We also use these splices at work. Basically you install it on the wires and hit it with a heat gun. The splice heat shrinks, glues itself in place and then solders itself in place. I just picked a random one on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Kuject-Connector ... 126&sr=8-3#

A few years back I was given a partial set of solder shrink wire ends . Seamed like a good thing . I used a bunch on Frankie when I did the last retro fit with all the guages , cab and stuff. Over the next year I had so many of them fail I cut all them out and replaced with crimp on shrink connectors and have not had another failure since . The solder connction would fail, I beleave from vibration. I think the low temp solder is to soft to be using on something like a GT.

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sat Aug 10, 2024 6:51 am
A few years back I was given a partial set of solder shrink wire ends . Seamed like a good thing . I used a bunch on Frankie when I did the last retro fit with all the guages , cab and stuff. Over the next year I had so many of them fail I cut all them out and replaced with crimp on shrink connectors and have not had another failure since . The solder connction would fail, I beleave from vibration. I think the low temp solder is to soft to be using on something like a GT.

Thanks @DavidBarkey and @MattA - that's a good point about vibration and the low temp solder shrink connectors. I'm a fan of some sort of mechanical connection - wether it's twist+solder or crimped connector with built in heat shrink

Trailer Pad update -
Went to the property Thursday afternoon, and after playing in Toronto traffic finally arrived in the dark after a 7 hour trip
(it should only take 4.5 hrs )
Forecast for Friday was supposed to be a mix of sun and clouds with rain starting in the wee hours of Saturday morning and continuing for the rest of the weekend. Good enough to try and squeeze in a solid day's work, even if the rain started early...
The mosquitoes/blackflies weren't too bad, but the No See Ums just wouldn't take no for an answer, and it didn't seem like the bug spray was stopping them at all... after the second one flew into my eyes it was back to old fashioned protective measures
Last post had the trailer pad form levelled up and waiting for more gravel.
Started at 7:30 doing the bucket thing - Eight 5 gallon pails filled with gravel and hefted into the trailer for the trip up the hill. - It's slow, but manageable when you are working by yourself and gives the opportunity to pick out all the larger stones from the pile before filling the buckets.
2nd load - neighbour Glen saw me shovelling and before he went out for the day came by to help with his Belarus tractor and scooped up a bucket full for the trailer - loads 3 thru 7 were back to using the buckets.
Finally had all the pit run gravel in place and ready for an inch or two of clean 3/4" crushed on top to make it look pretty
The red 644 loader started up ok after sitting for a few weeks... unforunately, it really needs some extra weight on the backend to be of any use. I grabbed 3 buckets of nice gravel, but was making so many little holes in the driveway spinning one of the back tires that I gave up and returned to wheelbarrow and shovel.

I'm going to exchange tires with my yellow 644 loader from the city and also add liquid ballast and some wheel weights before I take them up to the property and do the swap over, maybe try to hang some weights off the 3 point hitch too...
Rest of the gravel was wheelbarrow and shovel.
Finished pad, after driving the 644 and the Tacoma over it to try and settle the surface. I'll probably rent a plate compactor from a big box store to pack it down properly before parking the trailer on it.
It had been drizzling on and off all afternoon, shortly after I finished it really started to rain heavily and I retreated to the trailer for the night. Saturday morning was cold, grey and wet... and some of the trees are already starting to change colour The forecast was for it to stay like wet all weekend, a good excuse to head home and come back next week when it was going to be sunny again.
This picture was for
because even though she was at home for this work trip I still managed to park the truck where there would have been a big puddle for her to walk through in the morning...

That's good progress Gerry! I can confirm that using the loader without significant weight on the rear end was extremely frustrating. Once I put 200 lbs of wheel weights and loaded the weight box with another 200 lbs of suitcase weights it was night and day difference. I think the weight on the rear end is one of the most overlooked issues with these Case tractors, and with the loaders the most.

Weight is always the answer... I have a 500# BH counterweight hanging on the back of one of mine. Even that wasn't enough on one project, and I put a couple hundred pounds on the wheels. I've even come up light on a couple occasions with the BH machine. Ended up stretching out the hoe and putting whatever was handy in the BH bucket. These things are really hydraulic monsters to be able to pick up enough to require that kind of counterweight... (that said, I never checked my reliefs, and they might be running a bit hot allowing that level of chaos...)

Thanks for the comments about loaders and the need for more weight... Serious mellon scratching going on here today,
Just got back from Canadian Tire with a couple of 5 gal pails of RV antifreeze - good to -50°C (and they were on sale )

- Now to find some 15" inner tubes (the tires are looking a little cracked and weather worn)
- order a Slime 20073 fill adapter from Amazon - .
and then figure out something for additional wheel weights, FB marketplace seems a little hit and miss for something to fit a 15" rim. Might have to get creative and make something out of concrete... and look for some extra weights that will be easy to attach to the 3 point hitch.

I’ve found that putting weight on the inside or outside of the wheels and tires is best. With a hoe you can’t help putting stress on the bearings. I would think the manufacturer would engineer that into the machine. The 644 lbh has just the hoe for weight and rarely have I spun the tires. On the 646 I have combine weights on the rims with calcium in the tubes. You can never get enough weight with a loader. Harry

@RoamingGnome Gerry , did you see how I made my for the 446 blower tractor ? Portland cement and chopped up wheel weights for aggregate ?