Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Seal All Glue resists oil and gasoline. I fixed a aluminum block oil leak on my MF7 years ago. The oil was seeping through the block. No leak since.
My father showed me this stuff 50 or so years ago.


Noel

propane1 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 11:58 am Seal All Glue resists oil and gasoline. I fixed a aluminum block oil leak on my MF7 years ago. The oil was seeping through the block. No leak since.
My father showed me this stuff 50 or so years ago.


Noel

Have you ever fixed a fuel tank with it ?

I did. But it was 35 or so years ago. On a Subaru Brat. Was on the bottom of the tank. And it was rusty. I think from what I can remember it fixed it for a while. But I don’t remember what I did to fix it permanently.

Noel

I was able to do some research today and I have a bit of a convoluted tale to tell. When you get into a project it really doesn’t matter if it’s an old tractor, or vehicle, or whatever it seems it’s not only about turning wrenches, but also about investigating! So down the rabbit hole we go!

If you remember when I started this I said the engine was a 292 and the previous owner Mr. Gamm corrected me and said it was a 272. Well I called Chuck at Chuck’s Truck and picked his brain. He confirmed what I had looked up when I started Ford stopped using the 272 engine by 1961 and only used the 292 in trucks. But the PO is correct because he put the 272 in years ago. That’s why my carburetor kit was wrong. I bought a kit for an Autolight 2100 but a later version. I need a kit for an early 2100 from the 1950’s! This also explains why the auxiliary throttle cable is laying there. The mounting bracket and linkage left with the 292 engine and carburetor when they did the engine swap. I guess they didn’t need it. Why they put an older engine in I have no idea, probably what was available at the time. So does any of this really matter? As far as getting the right parts the first time, yes. But other than that I guess not really. It matters to me because it’s another interesting layer in the history of the truck, and it clears things up in my mind.

Now I have the correct carburetor kit, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and points ordered and on the way!

This just leaves one mystery on the engine tune up at this point….

My research showed the float should look like this.
The float in my carburetor looks like this.
I have no idea why.
You have to find a new old stock float to replace it and they aren’t readily available.
So I’m going to follow the method @Gordy
explained in his post and see if I can find the hole in mine and fix it. Certainly would be more satisfying to repair what I have rather than replace it.
@propane1 Noel if you say Seal All works I definitely believe you, but I’m just scared to use something like that on a part that will be submerged in gas. I’m going to try and solder it up and maybe keep Seal All as a back up.

Sorry for the long ramble, I guess I’m just excited to be putting the pieces together!
I really enjoy sharing this project with you all, and learning from you! Thanks for coming along for the ride!

Gordy wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 9:53 am

I did find a couple pictures of the throttle cable set up, but on a f700 and a different / holley carb I'll look some more It may be helpful to get a better side shot picture of your carb linkage.


Gordy

Thank you for looking. I’d like to see what you found. I’m sure it will help if I have to make what I need.
What did you type in to search? I haven’t found any good pictures yet.
I will get a couple of pictures of my linkage as soon as I can.
Thank you!

I fixed a 96 chevy cavalier steel tank with Seal All. Was leaking at the seam bad. Smeared it on and sealed it up. That stuff is awesome. Resists gas well. I have some on the shelf now.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

JSinMO wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 8:46 pm

Gordy wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 9:53 am

I did find a couple pictures of the throttle cable set up, but on a f700 and a different / holley carb I'll look some more It may be helpful to get a better side shot picture of your carb linkage.


Gordy

Thank you for looking. I’d like to see what you found. I’m sure it will help if I have to make what I need.
What did you type in to search? I haven’t found any good pictures yet.
I will get a couple of pictures of my linkage as soon as I can.
Thank you!

I was starting to wonder about a carb or engine swap I entered "1961 ford f500 carburetor linkage" in a google search then clicked on "images" under the search box. Here's the links to the pictures there is a visit site button you might be interested in for "Ford Truck Enthusiast Forums"


https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=ht ... B0AAAAAEBs

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=ht ... egUIARD1AQ


Gordy

Jancoe wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 11:24 pm I fixed a 96 chevy cavalier steel tank with Seal All. Was leaking at the seam bad. Smeared it on and sealed it up. That stuff is awesome. Resists gas well. I have some on the shelf now.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I always have some around. Just not for sealing liquids. Good adhesive too.

Noel

Well I have turned, twisted, and shook this float in every conceivable way I can think of. I followed Gordy’s instructions
too, and I’ll be darned if I can find the hole!
I can clearly hear liquid inside of it. There’s not much liquid inside of it and it still floats, so I guess the question is what the heck do I do with it?

A) Drill a small hole in the top, drain it, reseal the hole and try to add some solder to the seams too.

B) Leave the liquid in it and just add some solder around the seams.

C) Do nothing to it, slap it back in the carburetor and see how long it floats.

D) Try some other ideas you are thinking of.


What do you guys think?


Also here’s a couple of pictures of the linkage I said I would post.

One thing is. You don’t want to add to much weight no matter which method you use to seal the hole. It may add to much and the float may not float properly.
I would try drying it well, take a big black marker and blacken the whole float. Then turn it around so the liquid gets to all parts inside. The leak will be easier to see on the black than on the tin. Just a thought.

Noel