Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Nice work Bob @thebuildist . Here is a trick I use to recondition the seat of a releaf valve . The same would have worked here . Take drill bit the size in question . With carbide cutter turn required angle on the tail end of bit . Put bit in drill backwards and with some lapping compound , lapp the seat true again . Works like charm every time . The cheap extra long bits are even better as you can cut off the cutting end, or the stem of an old valve . Anything that is harder than what you are working on .

Nice tip! That's what I'll do next time. What angle do you generally use? Google tells me different things, 45 degrees seems to be most common.

Here's another question for you: I need to cap off my current lift circuit relief in my TCV. I thought about replacing the relief spring with a solid stud, as I'm afraid if I leave the relief spring clamped too tightly it'll just snap.

But I'm thinking that the solid stud will have problems as well, since with heat-related expansion/contraction, I think it'll eventually work the sealing ball loose in its seat.

So now I'm thinking I should build a 3/16 plug with an o-ring groove, and let the o-ring do the sealing and eliminate the check ball altogether.
How would you approach it?


Bob

thebuildist wrote: ↑Sun Jun 12, 2022 9:55 am Nice tip! That's what I'll do next time. What angle do you generally use? Google tells me different things, 45 degrees seems to be most common.

Here's another question for you: I need to cap off my current lift circuit relief in my TCV. I thought about replacing the relief spring with a solid stud, as I'm afraid if I leave the relief spring clamped too tightly it'll just snap.

But I'm thinking that the solid stud will have problems as well, since with heat-related expansion/contraction, I think it'll eventually work the sealing ball loose in its seat.

So now I'm thinking I should build a 3/16 plug with an o-ring groove, and let the o-ring do the sealing and eliminate the check ball altogether.

2022-06-11 17_18_01-DeltaCad - [COMBINATION CHECK AND PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE.DC].png

How would you approach it?


Bob

I start with about 45deg. and paint the tip with a marker to adjust contact patch . 45- 60 degree , but 45 ish seems to be the most commend.
Plug with o ring would be my choise .

The SAE by JIC adapters came in, so I've got it all assembled and painted. I went ahead and stamped the various ports for the next guy down the road. But I labeled them incorrectly! Well duh. So I went back and fixed them, but the picture is before it was fixed.

I've just finished installing my new multi function relief valve.

I made a mounting plate for it and bolted that plate up to the right hand frame rail, right behind the place where the loader cross-member will bolt in, and detached the power steering valve's return-to-tank hose from where it used to attach to the return-to-tank manifold right near the hydro oil filter, and routed that hose down and attached it to the new multi-function relief valve. Then I created a new 3/8 hard line that runs from the new multi-function valve up to the now open port on the return-to-tank manifold.

Next I made the plug that's needed to seal off the accessory lift relief valve inside the TCV. The inner hole where the relief spring fits is 3/8". So I made the plug a few thousandths less than that, and gave it an o-ring groove, and put a 3/8" o-ring in the groove.
I decided I wanted the plug to be somewhat "captive" to the 7/16-20 threaded outer plug. So I made a new outer plug on the lathe and drilled a 3/6" hole about halfway into its depth. Then I turned a 3/16 journal on the end of the 3/8" inner plug that slides up into that hole. That way everything stays in straight alignment as you push/screw it in. I used a bandsaw to cut flat-tipped screwdriver slot in the end of the threaded outer plug.
Everything screwed in without any drama, though it was fairly tight. I'm not certain, but the o-ring may have hung up on internal obstacles and gotten cut. Time will tell when I pressure test it. The steel of the plug itself is also screwed tight into the beveled seat, so the o-ring may not really matter that much anyway. As long as I can get full 2000 psi+ at the point of my new spool valve, I'm happy.

Meanwhile, I needed to install two new tees to connect from the work ports on the accessory lift over to the new relief valve. I put the first tee into the line that currently has a single output line, a line that leads up to the selector valve. That tee went in without too much drama, though I had to do some creative bending to get the 3/8" hard lines bent/squeezed/looped in the tight space. 5/16" tubing is a lot easier to work with, but JIC 5 fittings are expensive and hard to find, so I just went with JIC6 and 3/8" tube.


The second tee goes into the the other work port line, and that already has one tee installed, since it's connected to both the mid lift cylinder and the 3 pt. cylinder.

But when I put a tee on there that situation goes from unwieldy to ridiculous. Converting from JIC 5 to 6, converting from JIC to NPT, it's just not the way I want to leave it.


So I chucked up some 1" round bar and turned into a 4-way tee/mini manifold. It's just simple drilling and tapping.
After it's installed, it's not amazing looking, but it's better than it would have been otherwise. I had to make a full-on s-tube to get it joined. I'm sure it could be routed better and cleaner, but it's not obvious how, at least to me.
You may notice I use teflon tape on these NPT fitting, and I know that's somewhat controversial. I am very careful to never wrap the teflon on the very tip of the fitting, so that no teflon can ever squeeze down into the flow chamber itself. All the tape remains within the space between the threads.

Next I fill it all back up and do pressure testing and adjusting. But that'll probably be tomorrow.

Bob

Ok, a Poll: Be honest with yourself and answer before you keep reading:

Question: Did the new Dual Isolated-port Pressure Relief Valve with Integrated Outflow Tee work as intended?
(The three point and deck lift still work normally, and there is now high pressure (2000+ PSI) at the point of the new spool valve, and there are no leaks anywhere)

1. Yes. Everything worked perfectly, first time through. Manufacturing and installing your own hydraulic components is apparently so simple even a complete dummy can do it.

2. Kinda. It worked, but there were a few issues/leaks that had to be addressed before everything came together properly.

3. No. It doesn't work the way I thought.

Well...






































The answer is, 1. "Yes. It worked the first time through!"

I don't have an easy way to test the pressure on the new relief valve, but you can hear it crack when the deck lift or 3 pt. reaches end of travel. It doesn't bog the engine down hardly at all, and it's plenty strong enough to lift my weight on the 3 pt arms. I'm guessing it's relieving at about 500 psi.

As for the new line coming out of the new power beyond port, it's now cracking at about 2400 psi. I can't tell if it's the relief in the TCV that's cracking or the relief in the new spool valve. Either way, so long as 2400 is sufficient, then I'm not concerned. It's not too high, so I'll only adjust it upward if I have to.
There were no leaks to be found anywhere in the system. No one is more shocked at that than I am.

Bob

Knowing you are very particular and what a pain hydraulic leaks can be, I would have guessed "2". Nice job, lots of planning pays off.

Amazing! Great job Bob!!! Nice to see it coming together like this!


Do be careful for a while though, please, until it proves to be safely used for a while and it holds.

Awesome. I'm glad you pursued the power beyond and didn't abandon it with the obstacles you came into. You now have a perfect setup where everything will have its own relief and full control of each valve. Now that you have it done what would you have done differently, anything you didn't like? Like a selector valve for the 3 point and mid lift? Or did I miss that and you already have that?
Wish I had the time to build a hydraulic setup like yours. I don't need a loader on my 4020 because of my 2 6018's but would like a power beyond so I can add accessory ports and make more hydraulic attachments.
Fun stuff. Glad you shared your build here.

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