Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Got a little time to start getting the 4118 ready for winter. Some of this stuff should have been done a while ago, but just got done with mowing/leaf clean up last weekend. bagger and vac are off, 3pt back on, lift plate for blade on, list of items to order from Bob, list of things to get done now and over winter. Blower and blade ready to go.
I've had an increasing oil leak, so today I dropped the belly pan to get a look. Ingy is a dirty mess. Found the problem, Just the return hose coming off the filter is loose, so loose I can't believe it just dripped. Can't get at the hose clamp to tighten without removing the cross member. Another thing to get done when I have the hydraulic system drained.
Didn't realize I had this much to do till I made a list. And I almost bought a project tractor last week.

Wow tight fit in there . I have not had a chance to work on the newer ones . What the rest of it like to work on ?
Dave

Fortunately, or unfortunately, I didn't need the 444 for anything this summer, so the blower I put on just before the snow ended last season is still in place. Tractor started up just fine a couple weeks ago, so I'm good there. Most of the snow work is done by the Ford 8N, and JD300 industrial, which both got their chains 2 weeks ago. Only failing this year at the farm is I haven't gotten to the leaves due to a bunch of family medical crap...

Believe I'm ready at my house... Walk behind started no problem a month ago. Shovels are ready, and I've got 150# of CaCl on hand.

My folks house will be covered as well... JD 140 wears the blower all the time, and is always reliable. Need to check tire pressures, and move it to the front of the garage. Trying to get that place ready for sale now, so that machine will be moving either to my house, or PA once that's gone...

Both 646's are good to go. The BH is out in PA, so is way outclassed by the other machines, and is highly unlikely to see snow this season. The second is at my house wearing forks currently. May need that at my folks to clean out/move things, so it may not be available for snow, but I'll have to see how the season progresses. When I need a loader at my house, I really need it...

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 2021 6:18 am Wow tight fit in there . I have not had a chance to work on the newer ones . What the rest of it like to work on ?
Dave

@DavidBarkey on the All Hydraulic tractors they put the filter to front between the frame. That cross member is the one that the mid lift cylinder anchors too. (Didn't know if you could tell from that pic). On the other 4 digit series they put the filter in the tower.

The filter up there puts a couple of extra hoses and tubes in a tight spot. The rest of the tractor is pretty similar to the rest.
I think I'm going to try to just put a hose clamp on the end of the hose I can get at before I take the cross member loose.

Knocked a few things off the list tonight. Figured I better get a little done while it's warm.
Oil change done.
Got a hose clamp on the leaker, we'll see how it goes, but can tell it's helping. Sure hope it's good, just getting it fished around and reconnected was fun.
Replaced both hydraulic hoses to the 3pt. Believe it or not, my local Advanced Auto had the Jic-5 fittings in stock and made them up in minutes.
Tim

Good progress there @Timj . Always a good feeling to be surprised by the local sources. My 644 gas a tiny leak on one hose right at the pto where the fitting is clamped on the hose. The fitting has a long 90F degree elbow. Note it's not Celsius! Bothers me a little, this leak.

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Nov 17, 2021 10:30 pm Good progress there @Timj . Always a good feeling to be surprised by the local sources. My 644 gas a tiny leak on one hose right at the pto where the fitting is clamped on the hose. The fitting has a long 90F degree elbow. Note it's not Celsius! Bothers me a little, this leak.

It may go for a long time just leaking a little bit, but I think I would get it on the fix list. Blowing it in the garden will be a mess and will happen when you really need it.
Those guys are always my go-to for hydraulic hose repair. If they don't have a fitting they usually have it the next day. Was just surprised by the jic 5, it's really rare and odd. $12.00 an end. so I had $80 in the two hoses, but gotta have them.

Timj wrote: ↑Wed Nov 17, 2021 11:07 pm It may go for a long time just leaking a little bit, but I think I would get it on the fix list. Blowing it in the garden will be a mess and will happen when you really need it.
Those guys are always my go-to for hydraulic hose repair. If they don't have a fitting they usually have it the next day. Was just surprised by the jic 5, it's really rare and odd. $12.00 an end. so I had $80 in the two hoses, but gotta have them.

When my lift cylinder burst while plowing the garden some oil obviously leaked out, before it burst. The bigger burst happened just as I wanted to lift the plow at the end of the row. I went back and got all the soil that had drips of oil from the garden, and dug quite a large area of about 3x3 feet on the turf where it burst. Nasty stuff for sure. Yeah, I'll start looking for a replacement hose before the Spring.

Oh wow, pricy hoses, but you'll be good for many many years now!

Started mounting the new to me ahsb48 on the 4118. I say started, because, of course, there has to be an issue. Should be a 5 minute job, not
See the issue? The lift arm does not clear the hydraulic cooler support. Cutting the chute rotating rod support and moving it will not be a big deal but I don't think the lift will clear either.
Kind of a the blower came off of a 4120.

Is there enough on the front of the lift to reposition the lift rod to the right ? What do you need , about an inch ? Maybe have to add a little to the end and "adjust the angle " at the bend a bit. Never simple is it .

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 6:26 am Is there enough on the front of the lift to reposition the lift rod to the right ? What do you need , about an inch ? Maybe have to add a little to the end and "adjust the angle " at the bend a bit. Never simple is it .

Dave

That was my thought, there's not enough rod, so I'll have to weld a little on. Hopefully it is the same dimensions as 3/4" pipe.

That should do it @Timj , but too bad, this complication was not what you needed. I haven't fired up the snow caster yet, though we got a couple inches of snow. Maybe I try today, hope there are no issues

Edit: actually, if you wanted a quick fix, cut the rod in the middle and unite the two halves with a sleeve pipe that goes over, hopefully you'd find a pipe that's not loose over it. Then either a couple of spot welds or a couple of bolts?

Eugen wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 8:50 am That should do it @Timj , but too bad, this complication was not what you needed. I haven't fired up the snow caster yet, though we got a couple inches of snow. Maybe I try today, hope there are no issues

No snow here, and nothing serious in the forecast, so I a have a little time. I could throw the blade on if I had to.
It was just one of them surprise things, had a few minutes and thought perfect, will just slap it on.

Went back through the buy and sell posts and found a picture of the 4120 it came off. The cooler support is cut off or removed.
download/file.php?id=229&mode=view
I don't really want to do that.

Maybe it is the angle the picture was taken from, but is the arm going to clear the oil filter? It looks like you have too long of a filter on the engine.


Gordy

What if you just put more bend in the lift arm? Would that clear the frame bracket enough? Just another reason I don't want a 4100 series. Lol jk...hope you figure it out.

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Gordy It's the angle of the photo. I run the longer filter quite often. I have a longer filter on right now with my caster. There is plenty of room for the lift arm. If you look close enough right where the chute rotator tab is welded on the lift arm you can see the 4100 series have a bracket attatched to the top of the frame. That's where his issue is.

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Jancoe wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 10:30 am Gordy It's the angle of the photo. I run the longer filter quite often. I have a longer filter on right now with my caster. There is plenty of room for the lift arm. If you look close enough right where the chute rotator tab is welded on the lift arm you can see the 4100 series have a bracket attatched to the top of the frame. That's where his issue is.

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The OP was written well enough to figure out what he was talking about I was just wondering if the filter was going to be another issue


Gordy

Been thinking about it on and off today at work. Checked it out tonight. I think I'm going to straighten the bend out enough to get the clearance I need. (1) Then cut at (2) and weld in a short angle piece to get back to the lift plate. If I slide the lift arm to the right and bend it tighter to the left, it still will need to be lengthened at (2).

The angle of the pics make it look close to the oil filter, but it's about 3" above the lift arm. Always have ran the longer filter, easier to get ahold of to get off, and can just put 2quarts of oil in.

As we all know there's nothing that brute force, the torch, and the welder can't fix. Winter is coming Tim!

Wasn't too cold tonight, and it's been bugging me. So I brought the Onan powered Bobcat home and with a little help from the sawzall and grinder, I got the lift arm to clear. I bent the arm out away from the tractor, cut the arm, made a offset, and welded it up. All it needs is a little paint. Now back to the list, up next, new shoes on the caster and hydraulic oil change.

You guys are so crafty, behold those good looking welds!

Ingy is about as ready for snow as it's going to get. Had a good afternoon. After moving some potted plants and hauling a load of wood in.
Put new shoes on the blower and touched up the cutting edge with a grinder.
Changed the hydraulic oil and filter. Got the relief valve return line put back the way it should be. ( No more oil jug wired to the tower, Seabee )
Tower screens back on.
Chains on.
New front wheel bearings installed. I'm not really ready for snow, but the tractor is. Going to be my first winter without a plow truck since 1990.

Looking good Tim.
Are you running your font tires are the recommended 14PSI?

MattA wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 9:43 pm Looking good Tim.
Are you running your font tires are the recommended 14PSI?

Haven't checked them yet. It was time for a

Timj wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 9:54 pm

MattA wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 9:43 pm Looking good Tim.
Are you running your font tires are the recommended 14PSI?

Haven't checked them yet. It was time for a

I run the recommended 7psi rear and 14psi front. I've also got rear plastic wheel weights + 3x 42lb suitcase weights on my hydravac mounting bracket.

Nice job getting the machine in shape for the snow! Tim, are the front wheel bearings some standard size?

Eugen wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 10:36 pm Nice job getting the machine in shape for the snow! Tim, are the front wheel bearings some standard size?

Yes, the same as most of the tractors use.

MattA wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 10:05 pm

Timj wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 9:54 pm

MattA wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 9:43 pm Looking good Tim.
Are you running your font tires are the recommended 14PSI?

Haven't checked them yet. It was time for a

I run the recommended 7psi rear and 14psi front. I've also got rear plastic wheel weights + 3x 42lb suitcase weights on my hydravac mounting bracket.

I'm going to have to figure out how much weight I want/need to put on the rear. That gives me a good start point. Thanks Matt
Also been contemplating running a blade on the 3pt. That would give me extra weight, but be something I'd have to watch hanging out back there. That will force me to get a selector valve plumbed in sooner than later.

Timj wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 10:43 pm
Yes, the same as most of the tractors use.

I need not replace the front wheel bearings on any of tractors, but I gotta keep up with the Johns, in this Case with the Tims!




6003-RS? But they do have a flange. Seem to need more grease too. As you can see they are Made in the PRC. Is that the Populist Republic of Canada?! don't shoot!

The inners were getting a little sloppy, the outers could have went a while. Didn't want to end up with damaging the wheel so just changed all, kept the 2 outers for spare.
It didn't seem like the original ones lasted very long, but I think the second set lasted till now. I don't know if the dealer ever changed them.
Well, you'll be prepared when you notice one of your wheels getting sloppy. If you get one too far gone it looks like David has the fix for that too.

Eugen wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 10:36 pm Nice job getting the machine in shape for the snow! Tim, are the front wheel bearings some standard size?

Front wheel bearings have a lip . Use only the hd one the standard duty one won't take the wait of Case.

Dave

Eugen wrote: ↑Sun Dec 05, 2021 8:57 pm

Timj wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 10:43 pm
Yes, the same as most of the tractors use.

I need not replace the front wheel bearings on any of tractors, but I gotta keep up with the Johns, in this Case with the Tims!



95D40AE2-BEB0-4CB5-99C1-11C02A88F9E9.jpeg



F6AB2549-3A46-4C7A-8459-D20B9BF9E775.jpeg


6003-RS? But they do have a flange. Seem to need more grease too. As you can see they are Made in the PRC. Is that the Populist Republic of Canada?! don't shoot!

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Mon Dec 06, 2021 7:50 am
Front wheel bearings have a lip . Use only the hd one the standard duty one won't take the wait of Case.

Dave

These that just got do have a lip/flange. According to the spec they're fine up to 900 lbs. But is it 900 lbs of feathers or 900 lbs of steel?! I doubt they'll see even 500 lbs ever, on my tractors.

Ya Eugen those are the Hd. ones , the regular ones are stamped steel outer . They need no less that .005 " press fit, I prefer .010". Should be built in the Od. of the bearing . Measure the Od of the bearing should be oversized and then the Id of the wheel should be on size. The inside one take the most abuse . Your rims should be grease-able which mean you need to remove the inner seal. On some applications I will just remove the inner seal "lip" and leave the seal in there . That way the grease can get to there but reduces the force on the seal potentially popping the seal out . This is done mostly on grease-able spindles . That is why some manufactures leave in the seals on some grease-able spindles.
Ps. if you don't have enough press fit , you can put a small bead of weld around the outside of the bearing area in the rim . When the weld cools it will contract a little and tighten things up a few thou. " Just light bead will do ,not too hot as you are just having it act like a clamp .

Dave

Timj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 05, 2021 10:05 am

MattA wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 10:05 pm

Timj wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 9:54 pm

Haven't checked them yet. It was time for a

I run the recommended 7psi rear and 14psi front. I've also got rear plastic wheel weights + 3x 42lb suitcase weights on my hydravac mounting bracket.

I'm going to have to figure out how much weight I want/need to put on the rear. That gives me a good start point. Thanks Matt
Also been contemplating running a blade on the 3pt. That would give me extra weight, but be something I'd have to watch hanging out back there. That will force me to get a selector valve plumbed in sooner than later.

In addition to adding weights, replacing the inline link between the travel control lever and the travel control valve helped with my tractors jumpy operation with the snowcaster (and wheelies while mowing with the hydravac loaded). My tractor had a tendency to not want to move when pushing into a heavy wet snow bank and then it would surge forward bogging down the engine in the process. Travel operation is a lot smoother now but still not great.

MattA wrote: ↑Tue Dec 07, 2021 11:08 pm

Timj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 05, 2021 10:05 am

MattA wrote: ↑Sat Dec 04, 2021 10:05 pm
I run the recommended 7psi rear and 14psi front. I've also got rear plastic wheel weights + 3x 42lb suitcase weights on my hydravac mounting bracket.

I'm going to have to figure out how much weight I want/need to put on the rear. That gives me a good start point. Thanks Matt
Also been contemplating running a blade on the 3pt. That would give me extra weight, but be something I'd have to watch hanging out back there. That will force me to get a selector valve plumbed in sooner than later.

In addition to adding weights, replacing the inline link between the travel control lever and the travel control valve helped with my tractors jumpy operation with the snowcaster (and wheelies while mowing with the hydravac loaded). My tractor had a tendency to not want to move when pushing into a heavy wet snow bank and then it would surge forward bogging down the engine in the process. Travel operation is a lot smoother now but still not great.

Along with the linkage I have found that the bushing at the top and the bushing (washer) of the control lever ware and contribute to the issue . The last one I did, I made the "washer " out Brass and made it double thick . I have seen steel, brass, on the control and nylon use on the lift lever.

Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Dec 08, 2021 6:51 am

MattA wrote: ↑Tue Dec 07, 2021 11:08 pm

Timj wrote: ↑Sun Dec 05, 2021 10:05 am
I'm going to have to figure out how much weight I want/need to put on the rear. That gives me a good start point. Thanks Matt
Also been contemplating running a blade on the 3pt. That would give me extra weight, but be something I'd have to watch hanging out back there. That will force me to get a selector valve plumbed in sooner than later.

In addition to adding weights, replacing the inline link between the travel control lever and the travel control valve helped with my tractors jumpy operation with the snowcaster (and wheelies while mowing with the hydravac loaded). My tractor had a tendency to not want to move when pushing into a heavy wet snow bank and then it would surge forward bogging down the engine in the process. Travel operation is a lot smoother now but still not great.

Along with the linkage I have found that the bushing at the top and the bushing (washer) of the control lever ware and contribute to the issue . The last one I did, I made the "washer " out Brass and made it double thick . I have seen steel, brass, on the control and nylon use on the lift lever.

Dave

Thanks Dave. I forgot to mention the brass washers. I found my washers had only worn about 0.01" out of round but I replaced them anyways since I had already bought new ones.

The factory inline link runs in the $20 range AFAIK. For around $40? ssmewing provides an aftermarket setup that is supposed to help end jumpy acceleration. For the extra $20, I'd give it a try next time.

MattA .
Did you check for wear on the controll lever where the washer rides ? and where the linkage hooks to the lever?
I was repairing my today, will post pic.s tomorrow .

Dave

Before , this will allow a lot of movement of the lever before the linkage is moved even with a new washer bushing . After weld and careful grinding, file and polish . Clear coated to keep rust away. paint the bottom where the spring contacts and the tip that contact the neutral safety switch. Dave

Dave - Its been 2 years since I replaced the inline link and bushings. I don't recall seeing much wear like your levers had. My tractor only had 100-250 hours on it when I did the repair. I think where the linkage hooks into the lever may have had some designed in clearance? Anyways good work on the travel lever fix.

Tim - Sorry for the thread hijack

MattA wrote: ↑Fri Dec 10, 2021 11:08 am Dave - Its been 2 years since I replaced the inline link and bushings. I don't recall seeing much wear like your levers had. My tractor only had 100-250 hours on it when I did the repair. I think where the linkage hooks into the lever may have had some designed in clearance? Anyways good work on the travel lever fix.

Tim - Sorry for the thread hijack

@MattA that's quite alright, we're all getting ready for something.
Besides I'll return the favor some day.

Getting snow caster apart. Some heat and some repurposing of tools . a couple of hits whit hammer and punch and the outer race shattered . Now it is easier to finish in the vise . Now to make a parts list and do some ordering .

Dave

Looks like a little nightmare Dave!

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Dec 15, 2021 9:16 pm Looks like a little nightmare Dave!

Fortunatly for me , I do not live on Elm St. . So all is good

Dave