Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 1:31 am**

Actually a question: For traction and stability, what is the minimum weight that should always be present on the rear tires of a loader tractor? I know, "the heavier the better" but hear me out:

Once my bucket is on and working, I intend to build a concrete counterweight. I'll arrive at it's precise needed weight by deduction: The bucket's target payload is 1000#. I need enough counterweight to offset that 1000#, plus "the designated minimum rear tires weight"

I can find the precise offset for the 1000# bucket payload as follows:
First, find the bucket's payload with no counterweight by progressively loading more weight into the bucket until the back wheels of the bare tractor (with no operator) just come off the ground. For example, lets say it's 300#.

On my loader the bucket payload weight is applied at a leverage of 28" in front of the front axle. Since the target payload is 1000#, and the bare tractor counterbalances 300# by itself, then I have 700# payload downforce at 28" leverage distance.

28*700=19600 units.

On the balancing side of the equation, I have
A: Operator weight: 200# @ 48" leverage distance
MINUS B: Minimum designated rear tires weight @ 48" leverage distance (Minus because it hinders our counterbalance efforts, not helps them.)
PLUS C: Concrete counterweight X @ 62" leverage distance.

So IF my designated minimum rear tires weight were 400#, and IF my bare balance pointe were 300#, then my counterweight should be:
19600=(200*48)-(400*48)+(x*62)
19600=(-9600)+(x*62)
29200=x*62
X=471#

Now, the bare balance point of the equation I'll have to figure out by experiment.

SO THE QUESTION FOR THIS GROUP IS:

What is the minimum designated rear tires weight? Surely 100# is not enough for good traction especially on damp grass or a gentle hill.
Is 200# enough? Do I need 400#? Do I need even more than that? What number should I plan for?

I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts.

Thanks,

Bob

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 10:24 am**

Isn't that a LOADED question Bob?

These are my thoughts. Traction is a function of tire profile, surface characteristics, and finally the force between tire and surface, which is a result of the weight pressing the tire down. You go on wet grass with bald tires on a little incline and you can have 10k lbs on those tires.

One of my intended uses for the tractor has always been garden duty. So I did some searches in relation to weight and Ag tires. I first tilled my garden with a 220 and turf tires and it became very clear very quickly that Ag tires are needed. I came across an article tackling the issue of weight and farm tractors (I'm sorry I don't have the reference). From the article: too much weight on the rear is counter productive for a farm tractor, you end up with a light front. Too much weight overall and you consume more fuel than you should. Somehow the conclusion of the article was the rule of thumb that you need to weight the tractor both front and back with as much weight that should the traction tire slip, it should slip no more than over one tire lug (or the distance between two lugs on the tire).

Most anecdotal evidence around the garden tractor forums also point out that for snow duty chains are a must, besides "enough" weight.

For garden, especially moldboard plowing, I concluded for myself that Ag tires on the 446 (and now on the 644) were needed, and though I intended to use the larger combine weights (162 lbs each) on the tires, being in a hurry I installed the smaller combine weights (104 lbs each). They seemed adequate, although in some instances one of the tires did slip. I like to plow the garden much deeper than it's normally recommended, so it's especially hard for the tractor at times, and it gets stuck. Would more weight help in this situation? I'm not sure, there was some evidence that the 14 HP on the 644 gets bogged down when the plow is stuck and there is enough traction on both tires.

For snow duty I have not had problems with the 446 and turf+chains, not at all. At the time I had no tire weights.

Now, loader duty. In the last 2 weeks my 644 went through almost 13 tonnes of gravel mixed with screening. Before that I did quite a bit of wet sand. Now I have 8-16 Ag tires on the rear of the 644, with the 104 lbs each combine weights, and a weight box at the back with about 300 lbs of steel. Weight of the operator somehow does not matter in this equation

I can tell you this, that without the 300 lbs box at the back I was able to work sand, lift, and steer without much of a problem. However, with the full weight box at the back the most noticeable effect was, in my opinion, that I could push into the gravel pile further than without, and thus load the bucket with more material. Perhaps the steering was also a little easier.

For such tasks I'm not very fond of formulas, though I welcome a good discussion on it. I found it easier to put the weight that I was able to put without too much aggravation, but boy do I like those combine weights, consider myself lucky to find them. Also, for loader duty, a weight box I'd consider a priority to fabricate, if I didn't have one.

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 11:12 am**

In the owners manual for the loaders it states that you should have 500 lbs on rear to use maximum front loader lift capacity.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 11:23 am**

Jancoe wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 11:12 am In the owners manual for the loaders it states that you should have 500 lbs on rear to use maximum front loader lift capacity.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Excellent info! I did not know that before. So if I assume that my weight & balance is similar to the 64X series, then I could just put 500 lbs and call it a day.

Thanks!

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 11:24 am**

HI Guy
What tires are you running on your loader ?

If you could fide a set of D-10s for your rear rims
and if you had a 3-point out back you could hang something like this on your 3-point

also here is the weights you can hang on the bar Weight - Suitcase John Deere Click image to open expanded view Weight - Suitcase John Deere Brand: All States Ag Parts 4.4 out of 5 stars 18 ratings | 3 answered questions [attachment=0]image.png

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 11:26 am**

Eugen wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 10:24 am Isn't that a LOADED question Bob?

These are my thoughts. Traction is a function of tire profile, surface characteristics, and finally the force between tire and surface, which is a result of the weight pressing the tire down. You go on wet grass with bald tires on a little incline and you can have 10k lbs on those tires.

One of my intended uses for the tractor has always been garden duty. So I did some searches in relation to weight and Ag tires. I first tilled my garden with a 220 and turf tires and it became very clear very quickly that Ag tires are needed. I came across an article tackling the issue of weight and farm tractors (I'm sorry I don't have the reference). From the article: too much weight on the rear is counter productive for a farm tractor, you end up with a light front. Too much weight overall and you consume more fuel than you should. Somehow the conclusion of the article was the rule of thumb that you need to weight the tractor both front and back with as much weight that should the traction tire slip, it should slip no more than over one tire lug (or the distance between two lugs on the tire).

Most anecdotal evidence around the garden tractor forums also point out that for snow duty chains are a must, besides "enough" weight.

For garden, especially moldboard plowing, I concluded for myself that Ag tires on the 446 (and now on the 644) were needed, and though I intended to use the larger combine weights (162 lbs each) on the tires, being in a hurry I installed the smaller combine weights (104 lbs each). They seemed adequate, although in some instances one of the tires did slip. I like to plow the garden much deeper than it's normally recommended, so it's especially hard for the tractor at times, and it gets stuck. Would more weight help in this situation? I'm not sure, there was some evidence that the 14 HP on the 644 gets bogged down when the plow is stuck and there is enough traction on both tires.

For snow duty I have not had problems with the 446 and turf+chains, not at all. At the time I had no tire weights.

Now, loader duty. In the last 2 weeks my 644 went through almost 13 tonnes of gravel mixed with screening. Before that I did quite a bit of wet sand. Now I have 8-16 Ag tires on the rear of the 644, with the 104 lbs each combine weights, and a weight box at the back with about 300 lbs of steel. Weight of the operator somehow does not matter in this equation I can tell you this, that without the 300 lbs box at the back I was able to work sand, lift, and steer without much of a problem. However, with the full weight box at the back the most noticeable effect was, in my opinion, that I could push into the gravel pile further than without, and thus load the bucket with more material. Perhaps the steering was also a little easier.

For such tasks I'm not very fond of formulas, though I welcome a good discussion on it. I found it easier to put the weight that I was able to put without too much aggravation, but boy do I like those combine weights, consider myself lucky to find them. Also, for loader duty, a weight box I'd consider a priority to fabricate, if I didn't have one.

I appreciate the input and advice. It sounds like 500 lbs might be the consensus of overall counterweight. The only modifier being "how similar is my machine's weight and balance to a factory Case/Ingy loader?"

Bob

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 11:58 am**

I just went and looked in 644 the manual, and it calls out the payload capacity as 600 lbs. I'm guessing its actual capacity is greater than that and they're just being conservative?

Otherwise if I really want a 1000 lb payload, it looks like I'll probably need more than 500lbs on the back end.

meanwhile, if I make some assumptions, I think I can deduce the axle weight on a 600lb loaded 644

Assume: the bare tractor can pick up 150lbs with no counterweight.
full payload times 28 inches leverage equals A: Operator weight at 44 inches leverage PLUS B: 500 lbs counterweight at 50 inches leverage MINUS C: Axle weight at 44 inches
(450*28)=(200*44)+(500*50)-(X * 44)
X=481 lbs.

So a factory 64X at its full 600 lb load, with its specified 500 lb counterweight has around 481 lbs on its rear axle.

If I plug that into my formula I get 534 lbs. (less than it otherwise would have to be, becuase the counterweight is slug farther back between the 3-pt. arms, 62 inches behind the front axle.)

That's certianly reasonable. So unless I hear evidence otherwise, I think I'll use the 481 figure as my target minimum rear axle weight.

Bob

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 12:02 pm**

crazycase wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 11:24 am HI Guy
What tires are you running on your loader ?

If you could fide a set of D-10s for your rear rims
and if you had a 3-point out back you could hang something like this on your 3-point

also here is the weights you can hang on the bar

Weight - Suitcase John Deere
Click image to open expanded view
Weight - Suitcase John Deere
Brand: All States Ag Parts
4.4 out of 5 stars 18 ratings | 3 answered questions
[attachment=0]image.png

I'm running the standard Carlisle turf tires that came on the 4020. If you're afraid of getting whiplash from your rear wheels digging in and shooting you forward, then these tires are SUPER SAFE.

I do have chains for them, and I will consider them absolutely necessary for the slightest loader work on anything but concrete.

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 12:22 pm**

You gotta consider though, why all the 6xx loaders were equipped with a different type of tires than turf.

Without realizing I do have about 500 lbs of weight on the back.

Now, the bucket capacity on the 6xx is supposedly 4.7 cubic feet. What capacity will your bucket have?

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 1:00 pm**

It's a 48" bucket with 5.15 cubic feet volume. Its shape is less than ideal, as it has a lot of rear projection, which leaves the bucket mounted farther forward from the loader arms than I'd like it to be.

I'm considering modifying the bucket to cut off some of its rear projection, so that I can move the load backward towards the arms.

I haven't decided yet if it's worth the hassle/work to do it.
What are your thoughts about that?

Bob

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 1:02 pm**

I wouldn't consider anything less than the 500#.
I have a 500# backhoe counterweight on the back of one of my 646's. There was at least 1 occasion where I could pick up the load (just), but the rears couldn't pull me back. This was on fairly heavy clay soil, with the floatation tires from the BH machines (sort of a fine ag tread) I added a couple hundred # extra on the wheels, and was able to get moving again.

I believe I may have been ok with a more floaty front tire, rather than the pizza cutters the 646 has. This was also an odd load. It wasn't really in the bucket, but a screening rig that hooked on the bucket, and stuck a good 4' forward, so there was some odd leverage going on. I can't imagine being able to put a material load in the bucket that would outclass the 500# weight.

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 1:45 pm**

Toolslinger wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 1:02 pm I wouldn't consider anything less than the 500#.

I'm with @Toolslinger, 500 lbs seems to be a good magic number. Take dry gravel, which is about 2500 lbs per cubic yard. Your bucket full of such gravel would bea about 5.2 / 27 * 2500 = 481 lbs.

Posted: **Mon Oct 18, 2021 1:51 pm**

thebuildist wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 1:00 pm It's a 48" bucket with 5.15 cubic feet volume. Its shape is less than ideal, as it has a lot of rear projection, which leaves the bucket mounted farther forward from the loader arms than I'd like it to be.

I'm considering modifying the bucket to cut off some of its rear projection, so that I can move the load backward towards the arms.

I haven't decided yet if it's worth the hassle/work to do it.
What are your thoughts about that?

Bob

I think the distance the load moves backwards is so small that the effect on balance weight is insignificant; if the bucket's done already, IMHO it's not worth the effort. Also, you already have more volume than the 6xx bucket, so do you really want to further increase the volume?

But if it's going to nag at you forever, maybe you should do it

sometimes such little things can be a source of endless thought nagging.

Posted: **Tue Oct 19, 2021 8:08 am**

Bob, are considering running wheel weights and/or loaded tires?
I have run wheel weights on my 4118 all the time since new. Seems like a good balance for general duty and lawn care.
Just a thought, maybe a supplement to the counter weight.

Posted: **Tue Oct 19, 2021 8:30 am**

Timj wrote: ↑Tue Oct 19, 2021 8:08 am Bob, are considering running wheel weights and/or loaded tires?
I have run wheel weights on my 4118 all the time since new. Seems like a good balance for general duty and lawn care.
Just a thought, maybe a supplement to the counter weight.

I run both on Frankie . Loaded tires all the time and counter weight off 3 pt. when useing the loader . That way not all the weight is pushing down or pulling up on the axles shafts when loader is / not being used .

Dave

Posted: **Tue Oct 19, 2021 3:00 pm**

That sounds like good advice. I'll give it a try.

Just straight windshield washer fluid, right? How much weight will the fluid add to each rear tire?

Posted: **Tue Oct 19, 2021 3:12 pm**

Should amount to between 85 and 95 lbs per tire. You probably don't have to worry about getting the type that goes down to -50 Celsius like us

Posted: **Tue Oct 19, 2021 4:12 pm**

Eugen wrote: ↑Tue Oct 19, 2021 3:12 pm Should amount to between 85 and 95 lbs per tire. You probably don't have to worry about getting the type that goes down to -50 Celsius like us

You're right. There's not THAT many days below +50 Fahrenheit!

As a Northern Illinois boy, with fond memories of sledding and snowmobiling, it just doesn't seem like winter around here. I've never been out in -50C, but I have been out in -30C, and that was... Nippy.

Posted: **Tue Oct 19, 2021 5:35 pm**

I don't think I ever experienced -40C but we do tend to overdo things!

Posted: **Tue Oct 19, 2021 6:29 pm**

thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Oct 19, 2021 3:00 pm That sounds like good advice. I'll give it a try.

Just straight windshield washer fluid, right? How much weight will the fluid add to each rear tire?

I have both sets (turf with chains and agg lugs ) loaded with calcium . I had them done at my local tire shop that specializing in farm and construction tires . They have the special tubes and weigh in at 300lbs each plus an extra 50 lbs weights each for the lugs .

I have used WWF and Plumbers / RV anti-freeze in tractors . WWF is toxic like automotive antifreeze . Plumbers/ RV antifreeze is not toxic unless in large amounts and weighs in more pure gallon . If you can get "beet Juice " down there that would be your best choise . I can't get it near me so I go with Plumber/ RV antifreeze now with great results .

Dave

Posted: **Tue Oct 19, 2021 9:31 pm**

Other than the freeze protection alcohol which is the non drinkable type, What is toxic about WWF??? I have used it in every tire I have loaded. OK call me a tightwad, and suffered a little sticker shock when looking at other options

How much weight you get does depend on the fluid you use, but also how much you put in. Ag standard is 75% of capacity, mine are loaded 98+% thats 55 # in a 23x10.50 -12. With the air out of the tube I pumped the WWF in and hydraulically seated the tires, then removed 1/2 gallon. That put it at 5 PSI so added a little air to get 12 PSI. Been running like that for 10+ years

Gordy

Posted: **Tue Oct 19, 2021 11:00 pm**

Near as I can tell, "-50 RV Antifreeze" is around 55% propylene glycol. I can get it for 2.70 per gallon delivered. I'm going to dilute it 44% with water, which will move its freeze point to around 0 deg F, which is more than safe around here. That makes it within 5¢ per gallon of the cost of WWF. From everything I read, it does seem like either one is fine to use. But this will be a few ounces heavier, so that's the direction I'm heading.

Like Gordy I'm shooting for as near full as I can get, hopefully 95 lbs per tire

Posted: **Wed Oct 20, 2021 8:35 am**

thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Oct 19, 2021 11:00 pm Near as I can tell, "-50 RV Antifreeze" is around 55% propylene glycol. I can get it for 2.70 per gallon delivered. I'm going to dilute it 44% with water, which will move its freeze point to around 0 deg F, which is more than safe around here. That makes it within 5¢ per gallon of the cost of WWF. From everything I read, it does seem like either one is fine to use. But this will be a few ounces heavier, so that's the direction I'm heading.

Like Gordy I'm shooting for as near full as I can get, hopefully 95 lbs per tire

Don't dilute to much as you lose corrosion perfection qualities as well . I break the bead on the valve side , push it open and pore in as much as I can get then put a few pounds of air in it to get the bead to seat. Usually easy because it is wet and full .
Dave

Posted: **Wed Oct 20, 2021 8:49 am**

Gordy wrote: ↑Tue Oct 19, 2021 9:31 pm Other than the freeze protection alcohol which is the non drinkable type, What is toxic about WWF??? I have used it in every tire I have loaded. OK call me a tightwad, and suffered a little sticker shock when looking at other options

How much weight you get does depend on the fluid you use, but also how much you put in. Ag standard is 75% of capacity, mine are loaded 98+% thats 55 # in a 23x10.50 -12. With the air out of the tube I pumped the WWF in and hydraulically seated the tires, then removed 1/2 gallon. That put it at 5 PSI so added a little air to get 12 PSI. Been running like that for 10+ years

Gordy

Ya type of alcohol and lack of corrosion protection , plus the weight adds up if you really need it .

Dave

Posted: **Wed Oct 20, 2021 10:00 am**

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Wed Oct 20, 2021 8:35 am
thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Oct 19, 2021 11:00 pm Near as I can tell, "-50 RV Antifreeze" is around 55% propylene glycol. I can get it for 2.70 per gallon delivered. I'm going to dilute it 44% with water, which will move its freeze point to around 0 deg F, which is more than safe around here. That makes it within 5¢ per gallon of the cost of WWF. From everything I read, it does seem like either one is fine to use. But this will be a few ounces heavier, so that's the direction I'm heading.

Like Gordy I'm shooting for as near full as I can get, hopefully 95 lbs per tire
Don't dilute to much as you lose corrosion perfection qualities as well . I break the bead on the valve side , push it open and pore in as much as I can get then put a few pounds of air in it to get the bead to seat. Usually easy because it is wet and full .
Dave

Also if max weight matters to you, don't dilute the RVA. It is heavier than water. The WWF is lighter than water, but I have plenty of cast iron WW's so it is not a big deal to me.

Gordy

Posted: **Wed Oct 20, 2021 11:40 am**

Now I don't even get to dilute it???

You guys are costing me TENS of dollars!

Posted: **Wed Oct 20, 2021 12:09 pm**

While on the subject of weights, it's worth searching for a combine wrecking place around you. Some of the JD combines used wheel weights which fit perfectly the 16" wheels of the 4xx series tractors. There are two types that fit:

Model H78062 = 104 lbs per wheel
Model H93849 = 162 lbs per wheel

I was amazingly lucky to find a set of each, but I had to go some distance to get them.

Initially I was going to fill the tires too, even got the fluid! (also tens of dollars because we don't dilute our fluid here in :canada:

). But then after I got the combine weights I lost motivation to fill the tires.

Posted: **Wed Oct 20, 2021 4:19 pm**

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Oct 20, 2021 12:09 pm While on the subject of weights, it's worth searching for a combine wrecking place around you. Some of the JD combines used wheel weights which fit perfectly the 16" wheels of the 4xx series tractors. There are two types that fit:

Model H78062 = 104 lbs per wheel
Model H93849 = 162 lbs per wheel

I was amazingly lucky to find a set of each, but I had to go some distance to get them.

Initially I was going to fill the tires too, even got the fluid! (also tens of dollars because we don't dilute our fluid here in ). But then after I got the combine weights I lost motivation to fill the tires.

I got super luck with a set of Model H78062 = 104 lbs per wheel weights.

For those that don't know these are for the inside of the rim and made of 2 halves that bolt together to fit around the spindle.

I was snooping an online auction and noticed them but didn't think much because the description sucked just "Wheel weights"

Luckily there was something else I needed to check out on inspection day. When I saw them in real life the

light went on, ran back to the truck and grabbed pen, paper and tape measure. Made notes and took off for home to measure the 448's rear rims. At the end of the auction, with tax and buyers premium I owed $20 and change for the weights

Remember JD does make good dead weight

Gordy

Posted: **Wed Oct 20, 2021 4:55 pm**

So... I ordered RV Antifreeze from Walmart.com. They would only let me order 12 of them. Shipping was free after $35, so I added some paper plates and checked out.

Earlier today I received 7 of them on my front porch. Cool. But their email said they sent me 8 of them and still owed me 4 of them. SO I clicked on "return", qty. "1" under reason "wrong quantity received". The form said they'd send me a replacement.

So just now I got a call from a DoorDash driver. I never order DoorDash. (Restaurant food delivery) He says, "Where do you want all this stuff?"
"All what stuff?"
"Some kind of... RV Fluid or something."
"Oh. Just leave it by the garage. Thanks."

So I wait a few minutes, then head out to the driveway. Did they send me the qty 4 that they originally said, or have they remembered to send me all 5 of what they owe me?

Well..... What if I told you that there are now:
TWENTY ONE one gallon bottles of RV Antifreeze in my driveway. Are you serious??? Added to the 7 they sent earlier, I now have 28 gallons!

I don't even know how to handle this. Load up all but the 12 that I ordered and drive them to my nearest Walmart and try to convince them to take them back?
There's no return option on their webpage for, "You sent me WAAAAAY too many of them!"

Ugh.

Posted: **Wed Oct 20, 2021 9:11 pm**

12 21 they both have a one and a two in them

what's the big deal, easy screw up

must have been the paper plates that threw them off, but don't worry 6000 will show up tomorrow

Posted: **Wed Oct 20, 2021 10:20 pm**

@Gordy that's a steal of a deal!

@thebuildist maybe an RV is on the way too!

You'll remember this one forever!

customer service?

Posted: **Thu Oct 21, 2021 12:19 pm**

Final update: I went outside this morning and there on my front porch is a single gallon of RV Antifreeze: my missing bottle has now been replaced.

Nicely done, Walmart! That brings the final total to 29 gallons!

Posted: **Thu Oct 21, 2021 12:58 pm**

Nice colour too! Are you going to weight the tire before and after? How do you plan to get it inside the tire?

Posted: **Thu Oct 21, 2021 2:56 pm**

I will go ahead and weigh before and after. I'll follow David Barkey's method: Break the bead near the valve core, and fill it up from there. Without using an inner tube or making some fancy fill adapter complete with an "air escape" tube, I don't think you could get them any fuller than that method.

I'll report back with my results.

Bob

Posted: **Thu Nov 04, 2021 1:28 pm**

thebuildist wrote: ↑Thu Oct 21, 2021 2:56 pm I will go ahead and weigh before and after. I'll follow David Barkey's method: Break the bead near the valve core, and fill it up from there. Without using an inner tube or making some fancy fill adapter complete with an "air escape" tube, I don't think you could get them any fuller than that method.

I'll report back with my results.

Bob

Ok, here's the results, pleasantly surprising:

The empty tire/wheel weighs 58 lbs on my scale:

I used David Barkey's method, broke the bead and poured in the RV antifreeze. I have 28 bottles in total, so I stopped after 14 of them. I could have put at least part of a 15th in there, but it was getting very near full.

It was a little hassle to get the bead to re-seat, but I managed it. Filled it up to 12PSI and weighed it again:

Almost 176 lbs, 118lbs heavier than it was. Not too shabby.

While I had the wheel off, I ran up to Ace hardware and bought some 1 1/2-20 bolts to do the bolts-to-studs conversion.
I already had the lug nuts from Amazon. I already had 1/2" lock washers. I already had Loctite 680.

The bolts that Ace had were only Grade 5, not 8. Less than perfect, but acceptable. the factory lug bolts are only grade 5.

I threaded them through, put on some Loctite 680 to make them permanent, and snugged them up. Now wheel removal/replacement will be much easier.

Posted: **Thu Nov 04, 2021 1:37 pm**

Nicely done Bob!!!

now I'm inspired to fill my tires too

Posted: **Thu Nov 04, 2021 4:20 pm**

Studs make all the difference in the world when try to install weighted wheels . IMO after 30 years in auto motive and 9 years messing around with these tractors , who ever came up with the idea of bolting on wheel should be shot and pissed on . And the jackasses that continue to do this need to drawn and quartered . IMO.

Dave

Posted: **Thu Nov 04, 2021 4:47 pm**

Posted: **Thu Nov 04, 2021 5:31 pm**

Studs do, in fact, make a big difference. I'm a big stud, And just look at the difference I've made!

Posted: **Thu Nov 04, 2021 5:45 pm**

You also seem very stud-ious!

Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Heavy rear end

Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end

Re: Heavy rear end