Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

I wouldn't consider anything less than the 500#.
I have a 500# backhoe counterweight on the back of one of my 646's. There was at least 1 occasion where I could pick up the load (just), but the rears couldn't pull me back. This was on fairly heavy clay soil, with the floatation tires from the BH machines (sort of a fine ag tread) I added a couple hundred # extra on the wheels, and was able to get moving again.

I believe I may have been ok with a more floaty front tire, rather than the pizza cutters the 646 has. This was also an odd load. It wasn't really in the bucket, but a screening rig that hooked on the bucket, and stuck a good 4' forward, so there was some odd leverage going on. I can't imagine being able to put a material load in the bucket that would outclass the 500# weight.

Toolslinger wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 1:02 pm I wouldn't consider anything less than the 500#.

I'm with @Toolslinger, 500 lbs seems to be a good magic number. Take dry gravel, which is about 2500 lbs per cubic yard. Your bucket full of such gravel would bea about 5.2 / 27 * 2500 = 481 lbs.

thebuildist wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 1:00 pm It's a 48" bucket with 5.15 cubic feet volume. Its shape is less than ideal, as it has a lot of rear projection, which leaves the bucket mounted farther forward from the loader arms than I'd like it to be.

I'm considering modifying the bucket to cut off some of its rear projection, so that I can move the load backward towards the arms.

I haven't decided yet if it's worth the hassle/work to do it.
What are your thoughts about that?

Bob

I think the distance the load moves backwards is so small that the effect on balance weight is insignificant; if the bucket's done already, IMHO it's not worth the effort. Also, you already have more volume than the 6xx bucket, so do you really want to further increase the volume?

But if it's going to nag at you forever, maybe you should do it sometimes such little things can be a source of endless thought nagging.

Bob, are considering running wheel weights and/or loaded tires?
I have run wheel weights on my 4118 all the time since new. Seems like a good balance for general duty and lawn care.
Just a thought, maybe a supplement to the counter weight.

Timj wrote: ↑Tue Oct 19, 2021 8:08 am Bob, are considering running wheel weights and/or loaded tires?
I have run wheel weights on my 4118 all the time since new. Seems like a good balance for general duty and lawn care.
Just a thought, maybe a supplement to the counter weight.

I run both on Frankie . Loaded tires all the time and counter weight off 3 pt. when useing the loader . That way not all the weight is pushing down or pulling up on the axles shafts when loader is / not being used .

Dave

That sounds like good advice. I'll give it a try.

Just straight windshield washer fluid, right? How much weight will the fluid add to each rear tire?

Should amount to between 85 and 95 lbs per tire. You probably don't have to worry about getting the type that goes down to -50 Celsius like us

Eugen wrote: ↑Tue Oct 19, 2021 3:12 pm Should amount to between 85 and 95 lbs per tire. You probably don't have to worry about getting the type that goes down to -50 Celsius like us

You're right. There's not THAT many days below +50 Fahrenheit!

As a Northern Illinois boy, with fond memories of sledding and snowmobiling, it just doesn't seem like winter around here. I've never been out in -50C, but I have been out in -30C, and that was... Nippy.

I don't think I ever experienced -40C but we do tend to overdo things!

thebuildist wrote: ↑Tue Oct 19, 2021 3:00 pm That sounds like good advice. I'll give it a try.

Just straight windshield washer fluid, right? How much weight will the fluid add to each rear tire?

I have both sets (turf with chains and agg lugs ) loaded with calcium . I had them done at my local tire shop that specializing in farm and construction tires . They have the special tubes and weigh in at 300lbs each plus an extra 50 lbs weights each for the lugs .

I have used WWF and Plumbers / RV anti-freeze in tractors . WWF is toxic like automotive antifreeze . Plumbers/ RV antifreeze is not toxic unless in large amounts and weighs in more pure gallon . If you can get "beet Juice " down there that would be your best choise . I can't get it near me so I go with Plumber/ RV antifreeze now with great results .

Dave