Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

I am trying to get the 4118 back together so I can sell it one of these days! I have the choke and the throttle hooked up, but wow, They go all over the place. I have a 4020 that has essentially the same engine, so it should probably be the same, correct? But there are a bunch of baffles between here and the compared to the 4020.

Does any one have a picture that shows the cable routing for this 4118, or 4116, or 4120?

Even my personal email should work if it is easier to post a picture.

Thanks!

Bill Moyer

Seabee wrote: ↑Thu Aug 26, 2021 8:50 pm I am trying to get the 4118 back together so I can sell it one of these days! I have the choke and the throttle hooked up, but wow, They go all over the place. I have a 4020 that has essentially the same engine, so it should probably be the same, correct? But there are a bunch of baffles between here and the compared to the 4020.

Does any one have a picture that shows the cable routing for this 4118, or 4116, or 4120?

Even my personal email should work if it is easier to post a picture.

Thanks!

Bill Moyer
seabee@hotmail.com

Bill, I'll see what I can do about getting some pics of mine tomorrow.

Bill, didn't have time to remove the air cleaner housing, but I think I should be able to get you there without removing it.

On my 4118 the cables run from the control levers down the right rear tower support, then up the right front tower support. They then come up under the hydraulic oil tank The choke cable then goes through the center of the shield and to the carb The throttle cable runs behind shield to left rear of the motor.
Hope this helps.
Tim

Thank You Tim,

That looks so much neater than the way I have it hooked up. Mine works but it looks like heck! I had fire in the hole earlier tonight! Now I can go ahead and finish the tractor and run the cables to where it makes sense.

I must have gotten the valves just right because as soon as I applied fuel to it it fired.

Thanks again.

Bill Moyer

Sounds like you're getting close, Bill. Hope to see some pics when it's finished.
Tim

Seabee wrote: ↑Fri Aug 27, 2021 9:33 pm I must have gotten the valves just right because as soon as I applied fuel to it it fired.

It's a good feeling when the engine comes to life after an overhaul!

It is a good feeling when you get things back together and they come to life.We had checked all the safeties 2-3 times depending on which stage the job was in. When it fire so well last night I was a bit surprised. I figured there would be at least one safety we would have to chase down. On that AH tractor it is a nightmare of safeties. But as of last night, we got all the safeties set correctly, apparently!

Since the engine hadn't run prior to me buying it, I was good to hear it go off like that. Seller had offered to go direct and start it by jumping it, so I assumed it was possible. I don't know yet how much oil is in the Hydraulic system, but I poured most of a gallon and half to prime the system before trying to start, and there is still room in the tank for some more. Maybe tomorrow I will let it run a bit more to get the air out of the system, try the power steering, etc.

Anyway I am excited to finish it now!

Thanks Guys!

Bill Moyer

This is actually an update. I added gas to the tank today so it would run through the carb I had just rebuilt and cleaned. It started from the tank very quickly and we ran it for a short bit before we discovered a leak at the back axle. Loose hydraulic connectors from the axle to the TCV. Tightened them up and no leak there. Had one hose clamp under the dash that was slightly loose and it slowly leaked some oil. Saw no further leaks as we ran it slowly for about 5 minutes. While it was running I had the rear axle in neutral and moved the Travel from forward to backward to help flush air out of system, and the power steering was working well. It seems as though it is going to be back together soon.

One issue we are looking at is that the Hydraulic pump bracket isn't sitting on the rubber damper. While running I can actually put my little finger under it. It makes a bit of chatter when running, but if I push the bracket down, the noise goes away. How to relieve that are so the bracket rides on the bumper is my issue right now.

We are getting a lot of tin work back on the tractor so it looks like it is going to live!!!!!!!

Bill Moyer

How do I upload pictures to the site? Got some pictures of the 4118 running.

Yesterday when we had it running there was a rattle seemed to be coming from the pump mechanism. Pump bracket wasn't on the rubber bumper. With it running you could put your finger between the pump bracket and the rubber bumper. When you pushed down on the bracket with it running the rattle went away. So today we had things apart to relax some of the hoses.

We got it back together and started it. The bracket and bumper are running where they are supposed be running, and when I speed it up a bit the rattle comes back, but not as loud as it did yesterday.

Any Ideas?

Thanks!

Bill

Bill see these pictures below on how to upload pictures

Give each picture enough time to upload. It will show up in a list below the text you are typing. There will also be a button named "Place inline" which will insert the picture at the place in text where your typing cursor is.

Seabee wrote: ↑Wed Sep 01, 2021 3:38 pm How do I upload pictures to the site? Got some pictures of the 4118 running.

Yesterday when we had it running there was a rattle seemed to be coming from the pump mechanism. Pump bracket wasn't on the rubber bumper. With it running you could put your finger between the pump bracket and the rubber bumper. When you pushed down on the bracket with it running the rattle went away. So today we had things apart to relax some of the hoses.

We got it back together and started it. The bracket and bumper are running where they are supposed be running, and when I speed it up a bit the rattle comes back, but not as loud as it did yesterday.

Any Ideas?

Thanks!

Bill

If any of the steel lines is near anything it can touch it when it vibrates.

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Sep 01, 2021 4:21 pm

Seabee wrote: ↑Wed Sep 01, 2021 3:38 pm How do I upload pictures to the site? Got some pictures of the 4118 running.

Yesterday when we had it running there was a rattle seemed to be coming from the pump mechanism. Pump bracket wasn't on the rubber bumper. With it running you could put your finger between the pump bracket and the rubber bumper. When you pushed down on the bracket with it running the rattle went away. So today we had things apart to relax some of the hoses.

We got it back together and started it. The bracket and bumper are running where they are supposed be running, and when I speed it up a bit the rattle comes back, but not as loud as it did yesterday.

Any Ideas?

Thanks!

Bill

If any of the steel lines is near anything it can touch it when it vibrates.

Eugen,

I appreciate your suggestion. I have been under that tractor looking at those lines and I would agree with you on that. Didn't see anything but it certainly would warrant another look.

The pictures on the bottom are the earlier pictures here. The top 2 pictures are with it running yesterday! Making some progress!

Bill

I also appreciate your listing "How to Post pictures" It is so small I can't read it. How do I get to the Options? I see that button right beside where you are going with it. I am trying to understand! I found it!

That's awesome progress Bill. I'm positive you'll find the source of the rattle. This is where a mechanic stethoscope would help!

Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Sep 01, 2021 7:17 pm That's awesome progress Bill. I'm positive you'll find the source of the rattle. This is where a mechanic stethoscope would help!

An old trick Wrap your fist around one end of a breaker bar, long screwdriver or whatever. Place your fist against your ear, and the other end against what you think is making the noise, move it around to find the loudest spot. Note, the tool does NOT touch your ear, only your fist does.

And with the steel lines, make sure nothing rubs against them. I found one steel line worn about half way through from a choke or throttle cable rubbing


Gordy

Since I am still pretending to have a real job, I haven't been after the 4118 much this past week. I did take a break from it enough to get the 4020 so my wife could use it again!

Early spring when I was tilling gardens I put the tiller on the 448, and the deck on the 4020. We noticed that the steering was getting a bit funky on the 4020, and told ourselves "we will take care of that when we get the 60" done and switch them out". Well the big deck is still where I took it last spring to be welded. Butch has a fulltime job as well as farming. Not a lot of time. So the other day when my wife was mowing it got to the point where it was real hard for her to steer, and occasionally the steering would jump a gear.

Time to address the steering on the 4020! I hate that sector gear steering. It is no wonder Ingersoll finally started using Power Steering. What took so long? Anyway, sore shoulder and all, I dropped the deck, laid on my LH sore shoulder, and using my right hand fixed the steering. Wow! What a difference! My wife is happy again! Actually, I probably shouldn't have been doing that stuff yet. Then to test it out, I took it out to mow to be sure it was working properly, and up and down the hill I went. 3/4 of an acre later I let my wife finish the last 1/2 acre. Don't tell her my shoulder is sore!

Oh well Tylenol and ice to the rescue!

Bill

PS

Lawn looks nice!

Happy wife, happy life Bill! keep on mowing, before the rains are coming.

We got a beautiful day today, maybe I'll do that too if only I can get a few spare minutes!

Back to the 4118:

When I took the motor out last winter I had a broken foot on the front (I believe RH side). Anyway with the help of Ray from St Louis, MI area, I had a good one for a very reasonable price. When I put the motor back in I decided to put rubber pucks under the front mounts like the earlier Case 200/400 tractors which had them under the frame, and the bolt up thru the pucks, and thru the frame and motor mounts. I couldn't put them under the back mounts because the bolts are welded into the frame.

The engine still sets level on top of the frame, but the front of the engine has the pucks below the frame, giving the engine the ability to flex some in case of uneven ground and such!

Any body ever done this on a 4000 series? And what are the chances that flex gives it the ability to vibrate more than if it was tied down tight on the frame? Just looking for ideas.

Thanks!

Bill

I think not having the engine rigidly connected to frame is pretty standard. Can't be good if the entire tractor vibrates with the engine.

All of my 3000/4000 machines have been rigidly connected to the frame. The back of the engine is held by bolts welded into the frame at the factory. And the front just had bolts through up thru the frame and Claw and tied fast. The parts books don't even show the pucks like the 200/400 series. When I found the claw broken that is why I decided to try that.

That is why I thought maybe the pucks allowed too much flex and that might be the cause of my rattle (the flexing)??

Bill