Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

I thought the same thing the first time I saw one, that they used the pin to hold the bottom plate in. very simple design, low pressure so they could build themselves. And it lasted 50 years.
Make sure there's no burs on inside of cylinders.
Tim

Shoot some pictures when you take the hydraulic cylinders apart.

Not hard to take them both apart. Just like the saying "your rod will say a lot about the life you lived" here we go. The parts one
Pitting inside the cylinder, but not much scraping.
The one from my tractor
No pitting on the rod or cylinder interior, but quite a bit of scraping.
Interesting fact, the o-rings on the used one are a little flat compared to the parts one. But if I could find them easily I'd like to put new ones.

I guess the moral of this story is: use your rod and keep it lubricated, and keep water away from it.

Now that I know the bottom of the cylinder was not ripped like I thought, I'll just drill the old one across, perhaps replace the o-rings and get back to plowing.

Great pics Eugen . If you had a cylinder hone maybe you could polish up your parts cylinder. Your rod looks to be in great shape. A hydraulic shop might have o rings locally.
Definitely have some options.
Still amazed just how simple it is.
Tim

I have a cylinder hone for brake cylinders but I think it'll end up too rough. I think I should buff it like with felt and paste, like they put the finish shine on knives. But I don't have a felt wheel of this diameter. Maybe with a dremel tool.

I have a question for you guys. How concerned should I be for air left on the hoses and cylinder? I'm thinking to fill the cylinder through the bottom hole or top, with the rod at one end. But the hoses are hanging down so the pilot must be gone out of them. Open the lever until some oil pours out and then connect it to the cylinder?

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Jun 18, 2021 12:21 am I have a cylinder hone for brake cylinders but I think it'll end up too rough. I think I should buff it like with felt and paste, like they put the finish shine on knives. But I don't have a felt wheel of this diameter. Maybe with a dremel tool.

I have a question for you guys. How concerned should I be for air left on the hoses and cylinder? I'm thinking to fill the cylinder through the bottom hole or top, with the rod at one end. But the hoses are hanging down so the pilot must be gone out of them. Open the lever until some oil pours out and then connect it to the cylinder?

Brake hone will do just fine . I prefer to chamfer the edges first .
I personally like to put what ever oil I can into the cylinder , top is probably easier . When together and system full start up and bring to low idle cycle once in both directions and shut engine off . The air you displaced will be beat to a froth by the pump if left running . Let sit until air has dissipated from the oil . Repeat a couple of more times .
My 2 cents worth , you may keep the change .
Dave

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri Jun 18, 2021 7:24 am
Brake hone will do just fine . I prefer to chamfer the edges first .

the cylinder edges? or the hone stones edges?

I personally like to put what ever oil I can into the cylinder , top is probably easier . When together and system full start up and bring to low idle cycle once in both directions and shut engine off . The air you displaced will be beat to a froth by the pump if left running . Let sit until air has dissipated from the oil . Repeat a couple of more times .
My 2 cents worth , you may keep the change .
Dave

makes sense Dave, thanks! I'm lucky to get good advice and I appreciate it!

Eugen wrote: ↑Fri Jun 18, 2021 11:47 am

DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Fri Jun 18, 2021 7:24 am
Brake hone will do just fine . I prefer to chamfer the edges first .

the cylinder edges? or the hone stones edges?

I personally like to put what ever oil I can into the cylinder , top is probably easier . When together and system full start up and bring to low idle cycle once in both directions and shut engine off . The air you displaced will be beat to a froth by the pump if left running . Let sit until air has dissipated from the oil . Repeat a couple of more times .
My 2 cents worth , you may keep the change .
Dave

makes sense Dave, thanks! I'm lucky to get good advice and I appreciate it!

cylinder edges . NP. Happy to help When I can .
Dave

ALso check the holes the mounting pin goes through, they can get mushroomed and sharp enough to damage the O ring during assembly. On the other group someone also mentioned sliding in the header/end plate and removing the paint from the inside of the cylinder to make it easier to disassemble and reassemble.


Gordy

Gordy wrote: ↑Fri Jun 18, 2021 10:25 pm ALso check the holes the mounting pin goes through, they can get mushroomed and sharp enough to damage the O ring during assembly. On the other group someone also mentioned sliding in the header/end plate and removing the paint from the inside of the cylinder to make it easier to disassemble and reassemble.


Gordy

Both items checked, thanks Gordy! After drilling the new mounting holes 90 degrees to the original (some of you already see what's coming ) I smoothed the interior and also removed the paint using a dremel tool. Also beveled the edges of the new holes. Washed everything in mild dish soapy water and blew it dry.
Well, what do you know, now the upper oil port is right against the rod bracket! So there's no way the hydraulic line gets there! Yeah, should've thought this out a little better.

The new holes really need to be as close as possible to the old ones, such that the upper hydraulic line just clears the cylinder rod mounting bracket.

And so plowing gets another delay.