Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

Sometimes that is the right thing to do! Rather than having to tear into it again, do it right the first time! That sometimes is a hard reality. Only the second time do you realize to look for more, the first time!

LOL! Good luck!

Bill

It was an easy diagnosis once the cooling sidecover was removed. The return hose from the rad had worked loose. The issue now is the return connection port has collapsed.

Is it a combination of, high oil temperature, tank age, and improper clamping?

Will a hair drier warm the tank enough for gently reshaping the port?

You might need a heat gun to get the temp high enough. If needed you could preheat the tank in the oven to help soften it up before using the hair dryer or heat gun. Just raise the temp a little at a time. Another option is to pick up a used tank. I recall this being discussed on the old forum a while back.

Spike188 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2024 8:54 pm 20240715_204559.jpg

It was an easy diagnosis once the cooling sidecover was removed. The return hose from the rad had worked loose.
20240715_204614.jpg
The issue now is the return connection port has collapsed.

Is it a combination of, high oil temperature, tank age, and improper clamping?

Will a hair drier worm the tank enough for gently reshaping the port?

Eugene,

It looks like high oil temperature to me, do you use any hydraulic attachments and is the belly pan in place? Looks like an early tank without the metal inserts in the inlet and outlet nipples, but can't tell for sure from your pictures. Yes, the tanks can be warmed with a heat gun or a propane torch used sparingly, if you can get it reasonably close to original, be sure to find a piece of thin wall tubing about the correct size to give you something to clamp the hoses to or it will happen again.

The replacement tank (C33180) is not terribly expensive at around $210 USD, but I understand the currency conversion and shipping costs can add quite a bit to that.

Bob

@myerslawnandgarden Bob, you confirmed my suspicions about heat being the culprit. This tank does not have the metal inserts. Even though I did not know that later tanks used inserts, my plan was to add them to the tank before reassembling.

I have to take some of the blame for the tank melt down.
As I mentioned in another thread recently, my neighbors Husqvarna hydrostatic drive lasted 4 years. I had just finished mowing his hillside in high range. The engine would lug down, dropping hundreds of rpm and the tractor would almost stall before reaching the hill crest.
Feeling like 3 hours of seat time was packing to much in, all of my 1 acre front yard was completed in high range. Asian there were several spots were engine rpm would drop due to the grade. The last section to be mowed is to steep to side mow. Parts of it require mowing to the top of the bank, then reversing to the bottom and repeating the process.

This particular day was the first time mowing in high range had ever been attempted. It is understood that high speed mowing is very hard on the mule drive and deck. Mowing that speed will not be repeated.

This was the what it looked like. The first area gently heated and pulled back. The tube warmed and enlarged with a screwdriver, then 3/8 bolt, followed by a drill bit. All with the help of a roofing EPDM heat gun. It took longer to find a replacement cord cap than warming and forming the tank. Next step is finding a metal insert for the plastic ripple.

|When you find one ,rough it up on the outside .Heat it up and press it in so it will lock into place . I have had to do that to coolant bottles in cars.

@Spike188 - If you don't have anything laying around, let me know the size you need - I might have something to fit - I've got a stash of different sized small bits of tube accumulated over the years of working on hydraulic stuff...

Looks good Eugene. Maybe consider adding a second hydraulic cooler? AFAIK the plastic belly pan is no longer available. My 2001 4016 doesn't have one.

After listening to the cheering section at CCIGT, I decided that removing the suction hose and checking the tank suction tube connection would be a wise idea. That tube was also distorted. and on closer inspection, the suction tube had sucked up into the tank and plugged. It plugged because it drew up aganst the anti cavitation baffle. The tank cap was put back on, a bolt was used to plug the cooler return port, a piece of pipe was screwed into the suction port through wich a very, very low air pressure was applied. When the heated area began to flex, the air pressure was reduced to just the right amout to give the tank it's proper shape. The heat source was removed and air pressure maintained until the tank was cooled. The air pressure was controlled by inserting an air nozzle into the pipe with a bit of paper jammed around the nozzle.