Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

@thebuildist I don’t know of a way to keep the smell off of your clothes.

The gloves are a good idea. And maybe look into some of these Tyvek coveralls. Just throw them away after your done.
I’ve used them before and they work pretty well but they are hot to wear.

I agree with the tyvek suit idea. I use them for thevery dirty jobs. I also use to use them back in the day whenI only had a walk behind snowblower. It kept me warm and dry at the same time. Harry

Nitrile gloves and the Tyvek suit are pretty fool proof (but warm)

if it's just the diesel fumes on your clothes a dedicated pair of regular cloth coveralls might be enough protection. My laundry protocol with really oily / stinky clothes was presoak for a day in a bucket full of simple green / water mixture followed by one or two runs through the washing machine with extra laundry soap and a half cup of borax powder to kill the smell of the simple green... works ok for "work clothes" and if they weren't "work clothes" before, they probably will be afterwards...

Sounds like great advice.

I already have a tyvek coveralls that I bought a while back and just stuck in the trunk of the wife's car in case I ever need to change a tire and I'm not dressed for it.

So I'll get those out and give it a shot. I don't like working in gloves. And I'm pretty sure I'm not going to like working in coveralls. But if it'll help, it'll be well worth it!

And@DavidBarkey I'm sure you're right. The molybdenum in gear oil smells overpowering when it's not burnt. I can only imagine what it must be like after it's burnt.

Bob

I wrote a fairly long reply and lost it when the browser page got refreshed somehow .

Anywho, from my limited experience with small diesel engines, these things need attention for starting: fuel shutoff valve needs 12v continuously, short battery cable bolted directly as opposed to jumper cables, and 20 seconds of juice to the glow plugs before cranking. Pump not necessary if diesel comes from above the engine. One of my diesels would not start with jumper cables, periid. Looking forward to seeing it running!

I too dislike strongly the smell of all fuels, and engine oil, and exhaust fumes.

If your looking for relief from breathing the exhaust fumes, I found my 3M paint respirator worked great while I was attempting to tune my vanguards carb and governor.

I got my new electric fuel pump and combo fuel filter/separator installed. While I was at it, I ordered some 1/4" steel line and a double flaring tool, so that they're piped together properly.

Fuel priming up to the point of the injector pump wend quickly and easily.

Hooked up the battery, turned it over 4 or 5 cycles, and still no fuel up to the injectors.

So I took off the cover that contains the engine shutoff lever, to confirm that the throttle/shutoff rack slides freely. (Thanks, YouTube!) and: it's locked solid. So I'll have to pull the injector pump and see if I can free it up.

But, one step at a time, steady as she goes. Unless I hit "a wall", I figure I'll have it running in a couple weeks or so.

Bob

Well, now I've had the privilege of tearing down and (hopefully) re-assembling an injector pump.

I didn't enjoy it. My British friends would call it "fiddly." Very fiddly.

I couldn't find precisely the correct manual or video for it, but I watched a couple that were consistent enough that I was able to apply the knowledge to this one.

It turns out that each of the 3 "pumping units" are actually small (5/32" or so) precision ground pins reciprocating inside precision honed sleeves. The pin is the piston, and the sleeve is the cylinder.
The pin has a vertical slot (think keyway) and the sleeve has a hole in its "cylinder wall" near its midpoint. So if the pin is rotated to a certain position in the sleeve, then the "keyway" slot can draw fuel through the cylinder wall hole, and with each stroke a bit of that fuel will be "pushed" upward to the injector. But if it's rotated to a different position, then the keyway is away from the hole in the cylinder wall, and no fuel is pumped.

So the volume of fuel is controlled by rotating that pin.

The pin is indexed inside a gear-toothed collar.
And moving the control rack rotates that collar.
So sliding the rack rotates the pins, which causes them to pumpeither a little or a lot of fuel.



But those 1 inch long pins sitting in those 1 inch long sleeves, with maybe a thousandth of clearance were very solidly glued in place. They couldn't move up or down, they couldn't rotate. So the geared collars couldn't rotate, so the rack couldn't slide.

I had to drive the pins down out of the sleeves with a punch. (Delicately). Cleaned everything up, washed it in gasoline, lubed it all up with wd-40, and reassembled everything. Now the pins reciprocate and/or rotate freely. Rack slides effortlessly.

It'll probably be Thursday before I can put it all back together and confirm it pumps when the engine turns over.

Assuming it does, I expect to have a runner!

Bob

Congratulations on your first Injection pump rebuild...

As a side note before you give it it's first start up make sure you have something you can use to cover the air intake to smother the engine - just in case there any issues with the fuel rack getting stuck at full throttle, every diesel shop I've worked in has a story of a rebuilt injection pump with a stuck fuel rack that couldn't be shut down because it was instantly locked at full throttle once it started...