Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

My 1972, 444 needs a bushing at the top of steering shaft. It came with a incorrect wheel and after removing that, I find a odd bushing(or something)! I do not think this piece is normal ?? It is tight, if it's a bushing or it could thread on to the original shaft. Any ideas ??? Thanks
UPDATED: below is a picture of the steering wheel that came on this tractor..

I think that is the steel part which the steering wheel plastic was molded on. Clean it with a wheel brush and make sure there's no pin going through it. I do not think it's threaded on the shaft. My choice of getting that off would be to heat it up with a propane plumber's torch first. One of my parts tractors has that exact thing on the shaft, but I haven't tried to take it off.

@ckainMich That is the metal insert that the plastic was molded to . If the hub of the wheel is not cracked , you should be able to heat weld it back in after you get it off the shaft . Clean the top of the bushing/insert off real well and you will see a key way . Get some pentrant on there to help loosen it up . carefully add a little heat to help draw the penitrant down the shaft/bushing . See if you can pull it up enough to get the jaws of a puller under it . If not , with a nut to protect the treads try tapping the shaft down a little . The shaft will only go so far before the key will bottom out , but that will give you enough room to use a puller/heat and penitrant oil . to get it off . If the wheel is cracked where it goes , you need another wheel .

OK Thanks,,, I did not think that it might be the hub from original wheel. The wheel that came with the tractor is definitely incorrect, It's bigger and sits over the treaded shaft with a big nut holding it on. IT does work but the shaft really needs the upper bushing.

ckainMich wrote: ↑Mon Jun 26, 2023 6:27 pm OK Thanks,,, I did not think that it might be the hub from original wheel. The wheel that came with the tractor is definitely incorrect, It's bigger and sits over the treaded shaft with a big nut holding it on. IT does work but the shaft really needs the upper bushing.

do you have a pic. of the steering wheel ?

@ckainMich That is definitely not the right wheel . Looks like 70s small car wheel. The correct wheels are getting hard to find . If you can not find the right one . Some have made adapters to accept generic tractor steering wheels.

I can get by with this wheel. What I would like to do is replace the upper bushing...

If your current wheel sits on here and can be tightened down with a nut, what kind of bushing are you looking for?

What current shortcoming would the bushing solve?

I'm not making a statement. I'm not at all saying you "should" or "shouldn't" want to replace the bushing.

I'm genuinely asking: what is your goal with the bushing, what would you like to accomplish?

Maybe we can help guide you to it.

Bob

thebuildist wrote: ↑Thu Jul 06, 2023 11:31 pm I'm not making a statement. I'm not at all saying you "should" or "shouldn't" want to replace the bushing.

I'm genuinely asking: what is your goal with the bushing, what would you like to accomplish?

Maybe we can help guide you to it.

Bob

I took it to mean the he wishes to replace the plastic flange bushing in the top of the steering column, which would require removal of the center hub of the original steering wheel that is still in place.

Bob

Oh, OK. I get it now.

In that case, I'm with David Barkey: It's a tapered keyway fit. Lot's of penetrating oil, original Liquid Wrench is the best affordable option,
and heat. You're trying to heat the knurled bushing itself, not the shaft.

If you have access to a bearing separator and a 2 or 4 jaw puller, you could drill a little dimple in the threaded portion, mount the bearing separator under the bushing, and clamp onto the separator with the puller. That would take it right off.

Bob

Even with correct pullers, these come off extremely hard as it's a straight 5/8" shaft with a woodruff key, not a tapered shaft. Years of rust from water collecting under the center cap of the original steering wheel makes these almost impossible to pull. My best results have been by cutting the hub vertically as close to the shaft as possible thus splitting the hub. Preferably, making the cut right at the keyway is easiest.

Bob

Since the plastic portion is off another thing that can help is heat from a propane torch.

Nut splitter/ crackers work as well for those that do not have the means to cut the bushing . But need to crack a couple of times down the length. Like Bob said , best done at the key way as it is thinner there .

The upper bushing for the steering shaft is worn out or even gone... makes the shaft sloppy.
I hoped to install a new bushing.