Case 680E

[MattA]

Next: one of the hoses (4' long and what seems to be JIC fittings on the ends) to the bucket was leaking badly, and had a few bulging spots. Quick trip to the local hydraulic shop and 100 nuggets lighter, hose is in the truck. Seemed to me a little expensive, but then I don't have an informed opinion on this.

Boom cylinder leaks pretty heavily, now that's going to be a bit of an adventure to get off. Then take it to the shop and lose more weight from the pocket area ($$).

I had a case drain line made for my later model 4016 because the early model return line I mistakenly bought had a different size fitting. Set me back I think $45-50. Seemed expensive to me. Later I found out Ingersoll sold a kit with the line, quick connects, mounting brackets and connector caps for about $50 and the line wouldn't have been 18" too long

Glad your making progress on this project

[Eugen]

@MattA oh no! They say it's a rule that on the way home you'll always find a better price and whatever you just bought when you were out. Did you stay with that hose or in the end got the one from Ingersoll?


The new hose went in and voila, no leaks in either ends. Fine. Next I got a little break from the kids, after work today, and thought I try to take the pins out that keep the dipper cylinder in place. Because that cylinder leaks under pressure between the gland and the rod like a faucet. The problem I faced was that the pins are tensioned in any position the hoe is. Extended the hoe parallel to the ground, tensioned. Put the boom high up, same thing.

So I'm doing this without experience working on heavy equipment like a large backhoe like this. The giant snap rings on the pins were a pain to get off too with my puny snap ring pliers. But eventually they came off in one piece.

I managed to position the boom all the way back and the dipper curled in completely, in such way that the lower pin seemed a little less tensioned, and proceeded to pound it with a heavier mallet and another 2" pin I had from something else. Little by little the pin was coming out, but as soon as it was out the dipper curled more in and caught the pin I was using to drive the original one out. Bummer! Now go get the 644 and hope it can lift the bucket and dipper enough. But the 644 was not in a good mood on account of the battery being drained. LIke no problem comes alone, the positive lead cable to the battery also developed some bad contact. Quickly fix that, go with the 644 to the bigger brother, lift its bucket and dipper a little and move the stuck pin. Had to move fast because soon the kids need to be readied for bed.

Floated the boom down until the bucket rested on the ground, and got up on the ladder to deal with the upper pin. Which, I might add, is about 15' up. My neighbours probably enjoyed the circus routine I provided with one foot on the cap of the ladder an one foot on the top of the boom cylinder. And bam -bam-bam goes the mallet and pin, bam-bam-bam. Sweating buckets up there. Eventually the pin came out and yes, again my driving pin got stuck but with a piece of ash branch wiggling the rod of the cylinder in question things freed up and I declared victory, free of injury even.

This is how I left it in place, just sitting on the lower "ears".

And me thinks, if they charged me a hundred silver coins for a 48" hose, what it'll cost to rebuild this 4.5" thick and 48" long cylinder? I did ask them for an estimate and they said "no way to know it might be hard to open it up and the price depends on that". Uh, ok. My guess is 300 to 500.

And so the saga continues, with another exciting episode when maybe I try to do the cylinder myself.

[Timj]

We did the same cylinder on my 555 backhoe a couple of winters ago. It came apart pretty easily, and wasn't hard or complicated to rebuild.
If you can get the end unscrewed with out a fight, you have it made.

[Eugen]

We did the same cylinder on my 555 backhoe a couple of winters ago. It came apart pretty easily, and wasn't hard or complicated to rebuild.
If you can get the end unscrewed with out a fight, you have it made.

Apparently I need this wrench which I don't have

And a 3/4 breaker bar which I also don't have. But do I like buying tools? yes!


How did you undo the big nut on the end of the rod?

[thebuildist]

I have a big 18 or 20" adjustable wrench from Harbor Freight, and I did this to it:

I thought it would be hard to drill the vanadium steel, but the drill press didn't even struggle.

I use it primarily as a regular wrench, but it now has the pin wrench function too.


Bob

[Spike188]

This was the method on a smaller one I did. The one manual suggest some of the cylinder end cap torques to 100 ft/lbs and the ram nut at 225 ft/lbs

Spike

[Jancoe]

When I was rebuilding some cylinders on the 6018bh I also struggled with removing a couple cylinders on the backhoe. One pin in particular was not giving in. I feel your pain. I was lucky that my ball joint separator tool just barely fit on the framework of the bh. Alot of penetrating oil and a few days of cursing and it finally popped. I then could not get the gland nut to loosen. Me not knowing any better I tried some heat on the gland and it still would not loosen. I gave up on it and took the cylinder in to a hydraulic shop where he educated me on it and now I know not to ever put heat to a hydro cylinder and also take it in to him if I have trouble. He only charged me $50 to rebuild it. I had the rebuild kit for him that I got from one of the dealers. He said he would use it but next time he said not to order an oem kit as there is newer updated better seals out on the market. I also replaced all the backhoe hoses at that time, approximately 3 years ago. They only costed me around $300 for all of them. They were just 1/4" and some of them were 12 foot long. I ordered them through discounthydraulichose.com. is there an online place in Canada that could help you out?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[DavidBarkey]

Here is a tip for you guys who want to rebuild a cylinder with a gland nut like these . After the hoses are off and before you remove the pins . While the machine is holding the cylinder firm for you break loose the gland nut oil it good working back and forth. Now when you get it off you don't have to fight with the gland nut and try and hold the cylinder tube at the same time . NEVER clamp down on the tube to hold it , use the pin end to keep from rotating and a soft clamp around to tube to keep in place . Now , do to space restraint this does not work all the time . A rebuild bench can be made from a piece of I beam on it's side with blocks of wood to support the cylinder . A frame at the one end to allow for a pin to go though the Eye of the cylinder and hold it in place(mimic the machine) . If it is longer than the over all length of the cylinder . It can be use with a come along to pull the rod and piston from the cylinder when gland nut is undone . As some of you have found out , than can be difficult to do some times . Hope this helps .

Dave

[Timj]

We extended the boom of the hoe out almost flat and supported it on a pile of cribbing near the pivot point. The gland nut was loosened before the top pin was removed. We made a crude pin wrench years ago from some plate steel, probably would have been cheaper to buy one when you figure the time. The cylinder was supported on a block of wood and the rod removed. The cylinder was left on the tractor.

We supported the rod in a pipe stand, put heavy bar through the pin hole to the floor, then removed the nut with 3/4" socket and breaker bar.
It went well, but I can see where it could become a fight. Good luck!

[propane1]

As my father always said. It has to be solid, to do any work on any thing. Wether is metal or wood. You can’t have any bounce in the piece your working on. Just my thought.


Noel