Pull Grader

Utility blade, snow caster, mower deck, weights, sleeve hitch, 3pt hitch, front end loader, backhoe, and more. Ready made or homemade.
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Spike188 Canada
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Pull Grader

Post by Spike188 »

The pull grader idea is based on the horse drawn grader of the past century. My relatives in Oklahoma have a horse drawn grader converted to pull behind a tractor. At home our gravel driveway is over 300 feet long with a steep grade near the house. When we purchased the property in 2002 and inherited an icing problem because of a 1 foot in 12 slope off of the concrete parking area. After the first winter here, over 100 yards of gravel were placed at the top of the drive removing the cross slope. This caused a bit of pooling water at the parking area and large rains will cut out the drive. It requires blading about 2 to 3 times per year.
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A Massey Ferguson 48" snow blade off of an MF14 was going to be put onto a Simplicity GT. A Case 444 replaced the Simplicity and attempts at blading the drive with the 444 and a front mount blade were rough at best. Maintaining a smoot finish would be much easier with a rear blade. The 444 did not have 3 point so the idea was to turn the MF blade into a pull blade. A peerless 3 speed YT transaxle was used with idea of driving a small hydraulic pump. That would supply power to run hydraulic for blade control. The frame for the pull blade was made from scrap steel. Three adjustable cat1 top links are used for blade adjustments. These were to be replaced with hydraulic cylinders at some point. :$$: :$$:
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The MF push pipe is cut off at were the lift angle braces are welded it. The MF push pipe acts as a sleeve over a pipe welded to the pull grader lift hinge. This allows the blade to be crowned left, right, or flat while not interfering with the blade angle.
the workers.jpg
With a collection of Case and Ingersoll tractors the blade has been used behind a 646, 448, 446, and 4016. The 448 is the prefer motive power.



This is how it works behind the 4016 without 3 point. A person has to be quick on adjusting the center link for blade depth. Once the tractor spins and digs in, lifting and reversing out is the only option.



With the 448 and 3pt hitch the maximum blade depth is set with the center link then the height is controlled by the lift. The blade will angle left and right using the MF blade adjustment, and crowning and leveling of the blade is done with the side links.

All that is needed now is more dirt to play in.

Spike
Spike Colt - 9 & 10, Case - 108, 118, 444, 446, 448, 646, 646bh, Ingersoll 4016, 4118AH
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Eugen Canada
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Re: Pull Grader

Post by Eugen »

I would never have thought of doing this, that's quite ingenious!
Case 224, 444, 644, 680E
Kubota B26 :blush:
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Timj United States of America
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Re: Pull Grader

Post by Timj »

:thumbsup: thanks Spike. I knew it was going to work good the minute I saw it. Videos were great, that thing was carrying a pile of dirt. I see them old pull graders still being used too.

The front blades are hard to keep from digging in and control. I only use mine for snow. My dad's Allis Chalmers B12 has a belly blade, you put pressure on it with your feet. It does a surprisingly good job.

Having the crown and pitch adjustment is great for fighting your hill. :clap:

Tim
:446cart: let's go, it's finally time to blow. :peace:
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