dave
Case 680E
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DavidBarkey
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Eugen
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propane1
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DavidBarkey
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Eugen
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Re: Case 680E
A small update. Took the injectors to a diesel repair shop in Toronto and they tested and adjusted them.
Have decided to wait with the leak test until the injectors are back in the tractor, as I think the leak test would not work well if there was nothing for the pump to get to high pressure.
Have decided to wait with the leak test until the injectors are back in the tractor, as I think the leak test would not work well if there was nothing for the pump to get to high pressure.
Case 224, 444, 644, 680E
Kubota B26
Kubota B26
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propane1
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Eugen
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Eugen
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Re: Case 680E
Small update. Re-installed the injectors and had couple of leaks on the fuel return fittings.
Need to replace with new T fittings.
Nowhere to find locally so more delay.
Had a nasty leak right where the hydraulic pump gets supply through the thick hose. Added a couple of clamps for now until I can find a replacement hose.
Obviously I'm dying of impatience to run it and see if fuel gets into the engine oil again, but this just can't be done yet.
Need to replace with new T fittings.
Nowhere to find locally so more delay.
Had a nasty leak right where the hydraulic pump gets supply through the thick hose. Added a couple of clamps for now until I can find a replacement hose.
Obviously I'm dying of impatience to run it and see if fuel gets into the engine oil again, but this just can't be done yet.
Case 224, 444, 644, 680E
Kubota B26
Kubota B26
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Eugen
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Re: Case 680E
When it comes to patience I have to admit it's not one of my strong points. I suppose that's why they call it a virtue.
Took off the whole fuel return assembly from the top of the injectors. The whole thing is four T fittings, compression nuts on each side with 5/16 steel tubes in between. The compression nut pushes onto a rubbery grommet which swells up and seals off the connection to the tube. Undone the leaky ones and put them back together making sure they're not threaded crookedly. That seemed to make a good grommet to tube connection, more rigid than before. Put the assembly back on and carefully threaded the bottom nuts that connect the top of the injectors to the down stem of the T fitting, which also uses a rubbery grommet. Three of the T fittings were nice and tight, the fourth was turning past the end. And not after I forced it, me thinks. So I resorted to some use some hairs of rough garden rope like they used in the old days in plumbing. That was enough to be able to tighten the nut enough as to not leak. It's not a long lasting solution but it'll do for the test I need to run and see if/how diesel makes it into the engine. New fitting, some grommets, and a fee compression nuts have been ordered.
Turned the tractor on and it started on the first crank. No fuel leaks anywhere around the fuel return assembly.this time.
Didn't keep it running long because 1 the oil still had fuel in it and two the alternator is not in on account that it needed some fixing. It's a 24V alternator and I found that the Field tab has been broken off. To fix that I carved into the white ceramic like material around the stub that was left from the broken tab. Carved enough to be able to solder a piece of wire there. Without the alternator the belts don't turn the water pump so no cooling.
Put the alternator back on, changed the oil and gave it a go. Yay, the alternator produces 25V! Nice.
Ran the tractor for about 5 minutes. The oil level did no go up. Maybe it's too early to celebrate, I'll run it some more tomorrow. But I'm hopeful. It'd be nice not to have to take the injection pump off.
Maybe the real leak was from the fuel pump and it's fixed with the new pump I had put in.
Took off the whole fuel return assembly from the top of the injectors. The whole thing is four T fittings, compression nuts on each side with 5/16 steel tubes in between. The compression nut pushes onto a rubbery grommet which swells up and seals off the connection to the tube. Undone the leaky ones and put them back together making sure they're not threaded crookedly. That seemed to make a good grommet to tube connection, more rigid than before. Put the assembly back on and carefully threaded the bottom nuts that connect the top of the injectors to the down stem of the T fitting, which also uses a rubbery grommet. Three of the T fittings were nice and tight, the fourth was turning past the end. And not after I forced it, me thinks. So I resorted to some use some hairs of rough garden rope like they used in the old days in plumbing. That was enough to be able to tighten the nut enough as to not leak. It's not a long lasting solution but it'll do for the test I need to run and see if/how diesel makes it into the engine. New fitting, some grommets, and a fee compression nuts have been ordered.
Turned the tractor on and it started on the first crank. No fuel leaks anywhere around the fuel return assembly.this time.
Didn't keep it running long because 1 the oil still had fuel in it and two the alternator is not in on account that it needed some fixing. It's a 24V alternator and I found that the Field tab has been broken off. To fix that I carved into the white ceramic like material around the stub that was left from the broken tab. Carved enough to be able to solder a piece of wire there. Without the alternator the belts don't turn the water pump so no cooling.
Put the alternator back on, changed the oil and gave it a go. Yay, the alternator produces 25V! Nice.
Ran the tractor for about 5 minutes. The oil level did no go up. Maybe it's too early to celebrate, I'll run it some more tomorrow. But I'm hopeful. It'd be nice not to have to take the injection pump off.
Maybe the real leak was from the fuel pump and it's fixed with the new pump I had put in.
Case 224, 444, 644, 680E
Kubota B26
Kubota B26
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propane1
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