Fixing up my new 4020PS

[Harry]

I’ve used the Rustoleum rust converter. It’s readily available but not sure how well it actually works.

[propane1]

I remember people would use lemon or orange juice on rust. The juice right out of the lemon or orange. It will turn the rust black.
Now, I’m old and can’t remember well, , so I could be wrong. Do your research on that.

Noel.

[MattA]

I picked up some rustoleum rust reformer that I can brush on. It also comes in a spray can. I also picked up some rustoleum reform and seal spray for the under side of the deck.Youtube channel "Project Farm" has a lot of good reviews including rust reformers.

Progress has been slow in the past week due to other time and energy consuming home projects. RM48 mule drive #1 was reassembled. RM48 mule drive #4 was rebuilt. RM48 mule drive #3 will be finished up tomorrow. The tensioner springs for mule drives 3, 4 & 5 (spare unit) are all stretched out and will get replaced.

RM48 deck #3 will get my relatively new set of spindles (pulleys) including the RM38 center drive. The mulching kit will go back in this deck. RM48 deck #4 will get RM48 deck #3's spindles (pulleys) since deck #4's spindles are quite rusty from being outside.

Hopefully on the list this weekend is getting the plow setup ready to sell + my weight box.

[MattA]

RM48 mule drive #3 is finished up aside from a new spring.

Mulching kit reinstalled in RM48 deck #3.

RM48 deck #4 raising/lowering mechanism on the front of the deck has been freed up. I tried some PB Blaster but had no luck. Would have helped if the grease fitting was removable. I ended up pumping grease through the grease fitting and gently working the mechanism back and forth with a 18" adjustable wrench. It didn't want to accept much grease. I just kept working at it until it freed up. Its not perfectly smooth like Deck #3. It binds up a little but I can move it by hand. Its probably good enough and hopefully will loosen up on its own.

I think I found the hydraulic leak. The hydraulic filter had previously been wet but not covered in dirt. I had a feeling it was loose and it was. It took a good 1/8 turn to tighten up the hydraulic filter.

The last thing I worked on was modifying the power steering for a better turning radius. I had previously broken off a 1/8" drill bit in the hole and spent a good hour and a half failing at getting the drill bit out. I bought some hardened center punches and with a lot of effort was able to get the broken bit out of the hole. New hole has been drilled. I was working on adjusting the power steering hydraulic cylinder rod end when the girls got home. The rod end doesn't want to turn on the cylinder rod. I can see marks where someone (possibly the previous owner) used a pair of pliers or vice grips on the very end of the rod I don't want to be that guy so I quit for the day and will do some research. I also need to set the steering stops.

New Chile drilled. Rod end isn't secured.

[DavidBarkey]

Use your biggest pair of curved jaw vise grips . Place aluminum strips between the teeth and the rod . Tight down the grips as hard as you can . Support the grips on a block of wood . Now you can put some force on the tie rod end . If it still is tough . Extend the rod, wrap it with a wet rag and apply some BTUs with a torch or induction heater to the rod end . and try again .
Nice progress .. Hope this helps .

[dhitching]

The less invasive process I've used in the past:

- Tighten lock nut against the cylinder rod
- Place one wrench on the lock nut (which now cannot move) and the other on the rod end
- Loosen rod end
- Remove lock nut (worst case double nut the threads to break the lock nut free)