Case 680E
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Re: Case 680E
!!! Starts easy and sounds good! Great job! How the oil pressure? I always get nervous until I see that needle climb!
- Spike188
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Re: Case 680E
@Eugen Woot, That has to be a great feeling.
Spike Colt - 9 & 10, Case - 108, 118, 444, 446, 448, 646, 646bh, Ingersoll 4016, 4118AH
- MattA
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- Eugen
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Re: Case 680E
Thanks guys!
@JSinMO it doesn't have an oil pressure dial if you can believe. It only has a low oil pressure light which never worked while I had it. Haven't run it but for about 30 seconds for now. I intend to fix that light and maybe even replace the oil pressure switch with a sensor later on.
@JSinMO it doesn't have an oil pressure dial if you can believe. It only has a low oil pressure light which never worked while I had it. Haven't run it but for about 30 seconds for now. I intend to fix that light and maybe even replace the oil pressure switch with a sensor later on.
Case 224, 444, 644, 680E
Kubota B26
Kubota B26
- Harry
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Re: Case 680E
To crank it and start so easy, then just idle with no hesitation is exciting. Cloud Nine! Harry
1973 444, 1974 644, 1976 446, 1977 646, 1986 226
Re: Case 680E
Well done! A great feeling I'm sure. Sounds great.
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Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk
- Eugen
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Re: Case 680E
So what about thats oil pressure? Thank you Jeff for giving some home work
As you guys know I pulled out some stumps and dug a 100 feet long trench for the neighbour never having any real confirmation of oil pressure or engine cooling. Yeah, sometimes I just pretend it's all working until it doesn't. There now, how's that for a confession?
The truth is I always meant to go through the instrument panel at some point; it's in all kind of bad shape. Found some missing connection which I fixed with some soldered wire, bad light bulbs, etc.
But the real culprit as far as oil pressure goes is the oil pressure switch. That switch should be normally closed. What this means is that at rest, the light bulb gets on one side 24 volts, and at the other end it gets zero volts through the oil pressure switch, which is like a wire connecting the bulb to the tractor chassis which is in turn connected to the negative lead of the battery. When the tractor is running, if there's enough pressure, the switch interrupts the circuit going to open state. Then the light bulb does not light, because it's no longer connected to the chassis.
My switch is stuck in the open state. Easily tested with a multimeter set on measuring resistance. New one ordered.
As you guys know I pulled out some stumps and dug a 100 feet long trench for the neighbour never having any real confirmation of oil pressure or engine cooling. Yeah, sometimes I just pretend it's all working until it doesn't. There now, how's that for a confession?
The truth is I always meant to go through the instrument panel at some point; it's in all kind of bad shape. Found some missing connection which I fixed with some soldered wire, bad light bulbs, etc.
But the real culprit as far as oil pressure goes is the oil pressure switch. That switch should be normally closed. What this means is that at rest, the light bulb gets on one side 24 volts, and at the other end it gets zero volts through the oil pressure switch, which is like a wire connecting the bulb to the tractor chassis which is in turn connected to the negative lead of the battery. When the tractor is running, if there's enough pressure, the switch interrupts the circuit going to open state. Then the light bulb does not light, because it's no longer connected to the chassis.
My switch is stuck in the open state. Easily tested with a multimeter set on measuring resistance. New one ordered.
Case 224, 444, 644, 680E
Kubota B26
Kubota B26