Case 680E

[Eugen]

Thanks @Chad !

Today I made a little more progress. Decided to switch my attention to less pleasant work. Wet sleeves need to have good seal both at the bottom and top. The bottom of the sleeve has two o-rings, but the surface of the block where the o-rings touch needs to be clean and smooth. Spent quite some time with the wire wheel on top of the block and the inner surfaces.

Also wire wheeled all the sleeves.

Top of the block. Sleeves get inserted in those holes.

That shinier inner surface is where the sleeve seals. Lots of gunk there.

More of that.

This is where the sleeve mates with the top of the block. Previous owner had sealed here with orange gunk.

In the evening I needed to work on something a little more pleasant. Put the valves in head 1.

No idea what all those little gaskets are for.

One head got valves installed.

Also re-faced the valves for head 2 but ran out of time. Will continue next week.

[RoamingGnome]

Great progress photos @Eugen, Is it possible the little bag of copper washers / seals is for the fuel system? Copper washers for the tips of the injectors is pretty common...

[Spike188]

@Eugen you are at point where I start to worry about dirt contamination after reassembly. I have started using large garbage bags to shield finished blocks and heads and other things. I started ou doing engines in a shop with a powdery dirt floor.

One of these days you well get to hear it purr.

[Eugen]

@RoamingGnome the little bag came as part of the head gasket kit. I have checked the parts diagram and list for the head in the manual and still could not identify them. Sometimes the number of parts help. In the same bag were 8 tiny rubber seals which are the valve stem seals. They need to be installed on a groove on the stem about 1/8 lower than the groove on which the valve keepers sit, and will then be located between the valve rotator and stem. I don't really understand their purpose.

In the same small pack there are even two tiny o-rings, of about 1/8 ID. So, one per head. 4 copper washers, two per head. And four tiny white plastic rings. No idea .

@Spike188 indeed, the head made it into a big, new garbage bag waiting reassembly. The top of the block is also covered.

Good thoughts guys, thank you!

[Eugen]

As I avoid working on Sundays it was family time. But I forgot to mention something yesterday. I was reading the service manual section on the head and came across the torque sequence and value.

I had mentioned before that my largest torque wrench goes only up to 150 ft lbs and it wasn't suitable for even the main bearing bolts which need to be tightened to 155 ft lbs. Dave said I could borrow his 200 ft lbs wrench, but when I saw the head bolts torque of 210 ft lbs I knew i was in trouble. So I started looking for a not very costly solution, and ended up ordering this. Has really good reviews, and it should be useful around the shop.

I'll report on how well it works, or not, when it arrives. I like the fact that you can use an extension on the ratchet. Another day, another tool I guess.

[Spike188]

@Eugen I am working in Big Smoke Monday. I have a 1/2" drive 250lb or a 1" drive 600 lb "click" torque wrench you can barrow if you want.

[Toolslinger]

I suspect we've all played that game.... Buy a torque wrench, and think you're set... Next bolt you have to do is always 10# more than what you just bought... Next thing you know, you've got 6 torque wrenches...

If you need to go over 750#, I want to see that setup. I had to put 500# on a nut once, and it was about all I could do with my 3/4" split beam that goes up to 600#. If I had to max it out, I'd need someone else hauling on the wrench with me. (and a better socket, because I was terrified the one on that 500# nut was about to let go, and send me for a ride)

[RoamingGnome]

Wow - @Eugen you are really starting to add some fancy tools to your collection

Another option if you need to go crazy with torquing things is to get a simple torque multiplier -

there are a couple of different styles - this is the traditional style I'm used to, there is another one intended for lug nuts on trucks/tractors

There are also other really fancy tools for torquing that might be available for rent if you have an industrial tool rental place nearby.

The newest greatest torquing tool when I was working for CAT was a battery powered "B-RAD torque wrench" - different models could take you all the way up to 11,000 lbft of torque in something the size of a really large cordless drill... Punch in the target torque, pull the trigger and listen to the gear drive hum until it stopped at the selected torque. it was great for wheel bolts on really large loaders and stuff...

...and be careful when pulling heavy torques on head bolts, over the years I've known a few co-workers that have slipped and fallen over, or worse - got hernias from pulling too hard in a horizontal direction.
We learned the hard way that if an engine is out of the machine and on an engine stand it was safer to roll it on it's side and be able to do those final torque pulls by pushing down on the torque wrench and letting you body weight help... nobody wants to literally bust a gut...

Good luck with your head bolts, it will be awesome to see it finally come together and run like new...

[Eugen]

@Eugen I am working in Big Smoke Monday. I have a 1/2" drive 250lb or a 1" drive 600 lb "click" torque wrench you can barrow if you want.

Thanks Eugene! I should be ok, the new tool should arrive today. I appreciate your offer!

[Eugen]

I suspect we've all played that game.... Buy a torque wrench, and think you're set... Next bolt you have to do is always 10# more than what you just bought... Next thing you know, you've got 6 torque wrenches...

If you need to go over 750#, I want to see that setup. I had to put 500# on a nut once, and it was about all I could do with my 3/4" split beam that goes up to 600#. If I had to max it out, I'd need someone else hauling on the wrench with me. (and a better socket, because I was terrified the one on that 500# nut was about to let go, and send me for a ride)

I would not use this new digital tool for even 600#. The piston holding bolt on the big cylinder was spec-ed at about 1000 to 1200#. I used a 3/4 drive socket with a 1" thick 7 feet long wrecker bar to undo that bolt. Once it slipped from the bolt and bounced into my palm; was sore for 3 weeks. I roughly calculated that me on the end of that bar would be just a little more than 1000 ft lbs. I have undone/done it a couple of times, it seemed to me close or the same as tight as when I first took it off. Good enough for me. I honestly hope this is the last big tractor I work on. It'll be sold once I'm done with it.

@RoamingGnome yes, I was looking long and hard at the torque multiplier but once I found this adapter that goes up to 750# I saw no real reason to pay 3x more for that. The other toy you point to... yeah, nice! Maybe if I win the lottery eh?