DavidBarkey wrote: ↑Sun Apr 23, 2023 6:48 am
Just the way you are doing it .A little at a time . Biggest thing is to protect the shaft from marks in the travel zone . Worst thing you can do is mark the shaft or go way to far . I always mark the top of the bow with a marker the length in case it rates when straightening . Just easier to keep track of .
Thanks Dave! I saw other people doing it with chains but I thought straps would be better, no marks. Also used a thick strap piece under the bottle jack. I figured how much to push at a time by feel, how hard it got to push the handle of the jack. Had to move the jack and straps a few times to chase the part of biggest bow. The bottle jack is sitting on the two forklift forks set on a side, providing a rigid base. No way the 4x1-1/4 would bend. Worked surprisingly well.
Continued last night with cleaning and packing all the glands, pistons, then put them in new zip lock bags wait for assembly.
Cleaned and packed the swing cylinder
Then assembled it. Not sure if I should attempt to re-shape the big gear teeth which are somewhat distorted/narrowed at the bottom.
Eugen, my one hoe had a cylinder with a bend in the rod. I used my hydraulic press to bump it and straightened it. I did insert a piece of wood between the rod and the press cylinder to protect the chrome. Harry
Jancoe wrote: ↑Sun Apr 23, 2023 10:22 am
I got a rod here you can straighten out for me too. Lol
Could you flip that cylinder or rod over so the teeth have a new contact area to wear on?
I don't know if it can be flipped and still work. Maybe I'll try.
Today I got 1" diameter chrome plated rod to replace the bad ones in the stabilizer cylinders. Had the two 1.5" rods from the backhoe with me to ask about re-chroming them, as they have some speckles of rust. The shop said it would be quite expensive and the better option is to replace the rod. So off I went with another 50" of 1.5" chrome rod. Turns out that neither Mr @DavidBarkey 's lathe nor mine can accommodate a 23" long bar.
I wonder now if will like the new heavy duty shower curtain rod.
You could try calling https://www.nahardchrome.com/ for a quote... they are in Oakville and pretty sure they were the shop used by Liebherr and Toromont Cat when getting big parts re-chromed....
'68 Case 195, '84 Case 446, '88 Ingersoll 222 - and 1965 Case 530ck (fullsize backhoe)
The look on the teeth indicate that the cylinder and swing gear wear not lined up. The swing gear will fit on the swing post flipped over. Once the gear is flipped, shim between the frame and cylinders to achieve near zero backlash.
My lathe is too small. Going to a local machine shop tomorrow. The hydraulic shop in Toronto wanted 170 per rod end, to shrink diameter and cut a thread. With all due respect for their skill and time, it is not affordable for me.
Continuing my "blog", this may not be useful to any of you guys, but it helps me keep track of some things and time line.
Took the rods to a local machinist this morning, who gave me a decent price, he will do the piston end of each rod on a CNC machine.
Have been looking for any sort of manual for this Case Davis Taskforce 500 trencher. Could not find anything to download or buy. Joined a FB group for these machines and asked some questions there. For instance I was curious what oils one uses for hydraulics, and transaxle. I'm thinking I'll use the same oil as in the 644, that is, engine oil for both hydraulics and the transaxle. Checked the transaxle and could find no draining bolt. The bolt at the rear is about 2.5 inches above the bottom, so I'm thinking that's the fill up hole. Looked inside and there was a darker oil on the bottom, almost the consistency of honey. Filled it up with some oil cut with diesel for cleaning, and will suck it out in a few days.
When I first tested this machine, took it from one side of the yard closer to the tent which is the makeshift shop for now, so it's easier to work on it. On that test run I pushed and pulled on all levers and figured the way to move forward, and the stop either of the tracks for turning. Two things didn't happen: go in reverse or go faster. Last night I was decided to find out how to put it in reverse. There are two levers on the right side which seemed stuck together. Tried to make sense of the hydraulic lines and the two valves but it wasn't clear how to go in reverse. At some point I forced the two levers to separate and low and behold, it started to go in reverse. Just then I got a notification on FB some fellow answered me that the two levers need to be separated to go in reverse. Not only, but when the two levers are pointing in opposite directions the trencher goes faster. It shakes though, when it moves faster, and this makes me a bit nervous so I only let it go for a short time. I'd like to make sure the tracks get some maintenance before using it more, they're very rusty and I'm afraid they could break.
Today I fabricated a mounting plate for the new engine and bolted it to the frame. Took it around the yard, forward, backward, blade up, blade down, bulldozed some soil. This is the tracked device that I would have liked to have but never thought I'd get one. And it's a Case! Hope to not find any unpleasant or tragic surprises later, because the backhoe would be awesome on this one.
Harry
will like the new heavy duty shower curtain rod. 
