thebuildist wrote: ↑Thu Apr 13, 2023 2:18 pm
It may be easier and less expensive to replace the whole cylinder. Not necessarily, but maybe. I'd measure the cylinder size and stroke and look them up on Ebay and SurplusCenter. The affordable cylinders are kind of hit and miss for available sizes, but you may get lucky.
Bob
Bob, I think I know why this cylinder is strange. It has an interior sleeve. Because it's inside the moving square tube of the stabilizer I think it cannot have a hose or pipe alongside, both ports are at the top. I think it'll be hard to find an odd cylinder like that.
I'm considering even getting a cylinder just to harvest the 1" rod.
Yeah you've got a point. Depending on the hydraulic shop, you might be able to buy a 20 or 24-in stroke inexpensive cylinder for less than the shop wants to charge you just for the raw rod.
And turning it on the lathe isn't that hard to do. You'll want to use copper chuck jaw pads to prevent scratching. But other than that it's just turning a shoulder and threading the end.
Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
Finally got the last engine mount off and pulled the engine out.
Then I found out a possible explanation for the seized engine state. The bottom of the oil pan has an inopportune opening. Cooling technology from the future, drop the bottom of the oil pan, expulse the old oil, done.
JSinMO wrote: ↑Sat Apr 15, 2023 12:54 am
Well that’s an unexpected development! When you brought it home I was sure hoping you would have good luck with the engine.
It's alright, I didn't have much hope. Watch me part it out on eBay and get enough $$ for new hoses or some tools.
One of the reasons for the wash was to inspect the drive, axles, and all hydraulic lines. They all seem weathered but may be functional. If I were to guess, judging by the state of the clean oil, seals and overall interior state of the cylinders, I'd say the device was working hydraulically fine when the engine blew. Then it sat for years.
Interesting fact about this device is that the hydraulic tank is actually integral part of the frame. The hydraulic pump is dual, and has an 11/16 shaft, unfortunately not matching the lovejoy coupler I already have which is 3/4. The local store does not carry an 11/16 coupler. I was tempted to just install the 15hp engine I have for testing and see if it's enough to crawl. This engine is new, has 1" shaft, and flex coupling to a 3/4" shaft pump.
I'd say to couple it up to one of your hydraulic pto's to test it out but I think you said it had red oil in the trencher and you would contaminate your tractors oil.
pity it's ruined.
let's go, it's finally time to blow. 