Case/Davis trencher backhoe

[RoamingGnome]

Thanks for the tip Gerry, I will do that on the next one. I intend to try and hook the two hoses to the tiller maybe to test them on some pressure. I didn't mount the other 3 fittings on these two hoses yet because I'm playing with the idea of cleaning them up using electrolysis.

I don't know if you or @DavidBarkey have a Princess Auto Hydraulic Porta-Power hand pump around the shop...

I have one left over from my working days - it combines a shut off valve, some test fittings, quick couplers and a pressure gauge on the hose. It makes life easier testing hyd. stuff (and actually seeing) how much pressure you have got. - I put this together when I was working in the shop - field service techs would borrow the shop one and often forget to bring it back, or bring it back busted. We'd use it to pressure test hydraulic brake assemblies after rebuilding them - (brakes on heavy equipment are usually dead man style "wet" brakes, - spring applied when the machine is off and then released with hydraulic pressure to move the machine)

[DavidBarkey]

@RoamingGnome @Eugen
Yes I do , A 4 ton and a big one I haven tried yet .

[Eugen]

Ooh, that's a neat device @RoamingGnome , I don't have one. (yet)

[Eugen]

@RoamingGnome @Eugen
Yes I do , A 4 ton and a big one I haven tried yet .

so testing a hose you plug it and then get the pressure high?

[RoamingGnome]

@RoamingGnome @Eugen
Yes I do , A 4 ton and a big one I haven tried yet .

so testing a hose you plug it and then get the pressure high?

Be aware of all the safety precautions for working around pressurized hydraulic systems - you don't want to get a high pressure squirt of oil in your body - That being said... Yes, If you wanted to test how well the re-usable ends sealed - put a plug in one end of the hose and connect the other end to the pump (You can test resealed hyd. cylinders too... ) - gradually raise the pressure in the hose (or cylinder) to aprox. system working pressure and close the valve. come back in 10-15 mins and check to see if there is any pressure drop. Just be aware of the psi rating of the hose and fittings - you are checking for a leak - not trying to make a balloon out of the hose. - Once you have made a couple of hoses with re-usable ends you'll see it's pretty straightforward and probably won't feel the need to double check hoses - Mine is the 10 ton porta power hand pump - you can buy it on it's own, or as part of the kit that comes with a bunch of small rams for pushing out dents and stuff - best to get it on sale (of course)

[DavidBarkey]

@RoamingGnome @Eugen
Yes I do , A 4 ton and a big one I haven tried yet .

so testing a hose you plug it and then get the pressure high?

Be aware of all the safety precautions for working around pressurized hydraulic systems - you don't want to get a high pressure squirt of oil in your body - That being said... Yes, If you wanted to test how well the re-usable ends sealed - put a plug in one end of the hose and connect the other end to the pump (You can test resealed hyd. cylinders too... ) - gradually raise the pressure in the hose (or cylinder) to aprox. system working pressure and close the valve. come back in 10-15 mins and check to see if there is any pressure drop. Just be aware of the psi rating of the hose and fittings - you are checking for a leak - not trying to make a balloon out of the hose. - Once you have made a couple of hoses with re-usable ends you'll see it's pretty straightforward and probably won't feel the need to double check hoses - Mine is the 10 ton porta power hand pump - you can buy it on it's own, or as part of the kit that comes with a bunch of small rams for pushing out dents and stuff - best to get it on sale (of course)

Yes , safety . We used an old large tire to coil a hose in for high pressure testing when I work in the hydraulics shop back in the day . Then put a lid on it . Using a manual pump the squirt is short lived . No mater what is being tested Air must be removed first . One for building pressure and two for reducing stored pressure if it fails . Best way I have found to bench test cylinders is to put in extra long pins in each end then double rap heavy chain on both sides giving only a couple of inches of travel . Loader up to about 3000 psi , nothing I get into is releafed over that .

[RoamingGnome]

Thanks Dave - I didn't want to get too long winded about Safety, Safety, Safety... And definitely don't want anyone on here to have a preventable accident.

I saw a listing on FB marketplace today for a Sears Garden Tractor with (homemade?) front end loader... all the hard lines are black iron piping... It's great to be creative and make something from scratch, just make the effort to know risks involved with your material choices...

[DavidBarkey]

Thanks Dave - I didn't want to get too long winded about Safety, Safety, Safety... And definitely don't want anyone on here to have a preventable accident.

I saw a listing on FB marketplace today for a Sears Garden Tractor with (homemade?) front end loader... all the hard lines are black iron piping... It's great to be creative and make something from scratch, just make the effort to know risks involved with your material choices...

A lot of the old GT loaders made by Quikway and Johnson had iron pipe and fittings from factory but I beleave it was steel pipe . Used before seamless tubing .

[RoamingGnome]

A lot of the old GT loaders made by Quikway and Johnson had iron pipe and fittings from factory but I beleave it was steel pipe . Used before seamless tubing .

Thanks! Today's mission of learning at least one new thing has been accomplished! Still lots for me to learn about old GT loaders

[thebuildist]

Thanks Dave - I didn't want to get too long winded about Safety, Safety, Safety... And definitely don't want anyone on here to have a preventable accident.

I saw a listing on FB marketplace today for a Sears Garden Tractor with (homemade?) front end loader... all the hard lines are black iron piping... It's great to be creative and make something from scratch, just make the effort to know risks involved with your material choices...

I used 1/2" schedule 40 steel pipe for my loader build. 5000psi rating is good enough for me. Of couse on the high pressure side I also used high spec carbon steel fittings, rated for 4000 psi. On the return side I just used standard cast iron npt fittings. 300psi is plenty strong enough for the return lines.

Bob