Case D100 backhoe
- DavidBarkey
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Re: Case D100 backhoe
@thebuildist , Congratulations Bob! I’m glad you were able to bring it home. If anyone can get it going it’s you!
Here’s the measurement you asked for. On my 648 the ground clearance of the vertical pin is about 5 inches.
Here’s the measurement you asked for. On my 648 the ground clearance of the vertical pin is about 5 inches.
- thebuildist
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Re: Case D100 backhoe
@JSinMO , thank you very much!
Bob
Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
- Spike188
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Re: Case D100 backhoe
https://manuals.ccigt.com/ServiceManual ... -50741.pdf
@Eugen this manual may help you also. It is for the Davis D100
https://manuals.ccigt.com/More/Model-646-646bh-p36.pdf
Sheet 63 Page 110 of this manual is the early undercarage design sheet 65 page 117 for the later D100's
@thebuildist Bob the second manual is for you.
@Eugen this manual may help you also. It is for the Davis D100
https://manuals.ccigt.com/More/Model-646-646bh-p36.pdf
Sheet 63 Page 110 of this manual is the early undercarage design sheet 65 page 117 for the later D100's
@thebuildist Bob the second manual is for you.
Spike Colt - 9 & 10, Case - 108, 118, 444, 446, 448, 646, 646bh, Ingersoll 4016, 4118AH
- Toolslinger
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Re: Case D100 backhoe
If you have the choice, and since you're starting from scratch, you do... You might want to get yourself a little more height on the hoe. Mine will bottom out when I run it on to a 16' tilt trailer. (no gap to run between like a ramp trailer) A PO also added tabs on the support arms on mine, so the hoe sits a couple inches higher than stock to begin with. The loss of max dig depth really doesn't matter, but I can tell you that getting stuck coming on or off a trailer sucks.
- thebuildist
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Re: Case D100 backhoe
Good points. I was concerned there might be an issue with a high center of gravity. From your perspective, moving it up a couple inches wouldn't be a big deal?Toolslinger wrote: ↑Tue Mar 28, 2023 5:52 amIf you have the choice, and since you're starting from scratch, you do... You might want to get yourself a little more height on the hoe. Mine will bottom out when I run it on to a 16' tilt trailer. (no gap to run between like a ramp trailer) A PO also added tabs on the support arms on mine, so the hoe sits a couple inches higher than stock to begin with. The loss of max dig depth really doesn't matter, but I can tell you that getting stuck coming on or off a trailer sucks.
Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
- thebuildist
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Re: Case D100 backhoe
FYI, here are the very beginnings of what I'm thinking for a "quick install" subframe.
The gray is existing tractor structure. The royal blue is the subframe to be built, and the black is the existing backhoe structure.
The subframe rails are made from 1"x3.5" plate. Strong enough to support the all weight and torque of the hoe, all applied right at the fulcrum point directly underneath the rear axle.
when the backhoe is sitting on the ground, the sub frame arms are left tilting up in the air a bit. You back up to the hoe until the square axle housing collars contact the subframe shackles.
Then you install the "capture pin" assembly, hanging from the mid lift arms. (I think. I'm not cetain yet how the capture pin assembly will attach) The capture pin now prevents the front of the subframe arms from lowering down.
Next you hook up hydraulics, and push hoe boom down, which has the effect of lifting the rear shackles up in the air. Because the front arms can't drop down, the subframe comes into its final "parallel-ish" alignment with the tractor frame.
Then you push dipper "out", which has the effect of sliding the subframe forward, until the axle shackles are seated. Then install the 4 big pins to lock the subframe to the tractor frame,
After the 4 pins are installed, install the front boom counterweights and the hoe is ready to use.
I can already see a serious issue with the counterweights, they'll strike the front tires. So I still have to figure that out. Maybe put those weights horizontal on top of the bucket? That will cut your bucket lifting capacity in half. Maybe that's workable for now until I figure something better.
Bob
The gray is existing tractor structure. The royal blue is the subframe to be built, and the black is the existing backhoe structure.
The subframe rails are made from 1"x3.5" plate. Strong enough to support the all weight and torque of the hoe, all applied right at the fulcrum point directly underneath the rear axle.
when the backhoe is sitting on the ground, the sub frame arms are left tilting up in the air a bit. You back up to the hoe until the square axle housing collars contact the subframe shackles.
Then you install the "capture pin" assembly, hanging from the mid lift arms. (I think. I'm not cetain yet how the capture pin assembly will attach) The capture pin now prevents the front of the subframe arms from lowering down.
Next you hook up hydraulics, and push hoe boom down, which has the effect of lifting the rear shackles up in the air. Because the front arms can't drop down, the subframe comes into its final "parallel-ish" alignment with the tractor frame.
Then you push dipper "out", which has the effect of sliding the subframe forward, until the axle shackles are seated. Then install the 4 big pins to lock the subframe to the tractor frame,
After the 4 pins are installed, install the front boom counterweights and the hoe is ready to use.
I can already see a serious issue with the counterweights, they'll strike the front tires. So I still have to figure that out. Maybe put those weights horizontal on top of the bucket? That will cut your bucket lifting capacity in half. Maybe that's workable for now until I figure something better.
Bob
"Never be afraid to try something new. How hard can it be?"
- Harry
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Re: Case D100 backhoe
At this point in life I don’t have the energy for a huge project. If there is anyone to tackle this project it’s you Bob. You seem to have a very methodical approach to your projects and this backhoe is no exception. I will be following and inspired by your progress. Harry
1973 444, 1974 644, 1976 446, 1977 646, 1986 226
- DavidBarkey
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Re: Case D100 backhoe
Bob , how much counter weight do you need ?
That being said , if the down riggers were on an angle back wards a few degrees instead of 180 degrees apart then that would help take some of the front rear load off . I am thinking about 15 per side . Then the amount of counter balance would be more for steering . Food for thought . enjoy your breakfast .
That being said , if the down riggers were on an angle back wards a few degrees instead of 180 degrees apart then that would help take some of the front rear load off . I am thinking about 15 per side . Then the amount of counter balance would be more for steering . Food for thought . enjoy your breakfast .
Dave
Mad Tractor Builder
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Re: Case D100 backhoe
But if you somehow keep this tractor on mower duty it'll be the most versatile tractor ever!