Auction 446. The work begins.

[thebuildist]

I needed to move the tractor out of the way for another project today. Son wanted to be the test pilot. He drove around for a little while learning the controls. We changed the engine and hydraulic oils too. A131017F-4EDC-4611-B1DC-364953528841.jpeg
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This is the reaction I was hoping for!
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He says he wants to do the snow plowing this winter!

@thebuildist I looked back through your thread on building your loader and counter weight. You’ve given me inspiration to do something similar for this tractor for traction when plowing. I also want to build a receiver to fit the sleeve adapter to attach a hitch to move the trailer and maybe some implements for the other tractors. I think it would handy. Hopefully I’ll get some time to try a little fabrication!

We all can't wait to see what you come up with!

Bob

[Timj]

It seems to me that the big wheel tractors are all a little lite in the rear end. Unless you have fairly level ground and just mow and do lite duty stuff with them. I've had the wheel weights on my 4118 since new and can definitely tell the difference with the 448 with out them.

@JSinMO I can see you using your tractor for serious work and it's not exactly level by you. I would look at some for your tractor, not crazy heavy but some. You can put more on the 3pt when needed. The advantage of wheel weights is they put the weight directly to the ground and don't put it on the tractor components.

Finding OEM by you is probably not a good option, D-10s usually go for a hundy each and the plastic covered don't seem to come up often and are usually beatup. Older JD combine weights and a couple others work. Loading tires is also an option. So is making your own.
Just some thoughts (ramble), I have to do something on the 448 before winter too.

[Eugen]

@JSinMO about the hitch ball receiver. The sleeve hitch has two threaded holes on its face, so that you can move the hitch plate from the tractor body to the sleeve hitch, then the ball could be installed on that plate. I guess if you want to get fancy, you could attach an actual receiver on the sleeve hitch somehow. I guess it depends how easy it is to get it off, and often you think you might need the sleeve hitch for something else.

I'm with Tim on the weight, if you can, put as much weight on the wheels, before adding weight to the rear frame. I scored two 162 lbs JD combine wheel weights which fit perfectly our wheels. I doubt you'll ever need more than that for just snow pushing. For reference the JD combine weights are part numbers H78062 and H93849. I drove one hour one way to a combine junk yard to get mine and could not be happier. However, Dave build wheel weights out of concrete, much cheaper, and they work just as well. He and Bob also filled their tires with liquid. Lots of ideas here. The most important factor here is that weight is really important for traction.

[JSinMO]

Thanks guys. That’s a really good point about keeping weight off the frame. I’ll have to look around for options for wheel weight.

One thing I’m also thinking about doing is separating the 3point function from the main tractor hydraulics. I’m not liking the 3point moving when I lift or lower the blade.
Looks like there is just a T on the valve under the tractor. I could cap that off. Since I have the PTO valve on the back I can plumb the 3point to that. That would give me independent function.

I guess I would loose the ability to float the 3point, but I don’t really have a need to at this point.

What I know for sure right now is I have more ideas than time to try them!

[Timj]

Thanks guys. That’s a really good point about keeping weight off the frame. I’ll have to look around for options for wheel weight.

One thing I’m also thinking about doing is separating the 3point function from the main tractor hydraulics. I’m not liking the 3point moving when I lift or lower the blade.
Looks like there is just a T on the valve under the tractor. I could cap that off. Since I have the PTO valve on the back I can plumb the 3point to that. That would give me independent function. CD2D76E1-01E4-4029-A093-7CE4D2147E0E.jpeg

I guess I would loose the ability to float the 3point, but I don’t really have a need to at this point.

What I know for sure right now is I have more ideas than time to try them!

You won't like running the 3pt and probably shouldn't off the PTO. The PTO valve is full flow and pressure of tractors hydraulic system. Dead heading the pump would happen easily. The lift cylinder isn't designed for high pressure.

How you use your tractor will play into what you do. There's a few options. I've tolerated the simultaneous up down for many years, didn't like it, but didn't have the 3pt on for many years either.

1. Selector valve, let's you select what you want. I used the need to replace hoses for the time to install the valve. I'll do a cost break down someday.
2. You could put a single hydraulic shut off valve in the line to the circuit you don't want to move.
3. Some have used a "snubber" set-up, it's like metal washers and rubber discs you put on the ram to restrict it's movement. I'll find a pic.

Think it through, I thought I had mine figured out, now I'm rethinking my valve placement on the 448.

[thebuildist]

Generally folks install a 3 way selector valve in either of the lift lines. In one position the oil is routed to the deck lift and not the three point. In the other position the three point gets oil and the deck doesn't .

Each cylinder has two hoses. You only need to divert one set of them. I installed my selector valve in the "lift up" hose leading to both cylinders. Think of it as replacing the tee with a 3 way ball valve.

When a cylinder is selected, it has a working pair of hoses connecting it to the tcv, and a cylinder can only move when it has a complete circuit/path for the fluid to flow, one hose "out"and the other hose "back".

When a cylinder is"non -selected", one of its hoses is still connected by tee to the tcv, and will this be subjected to whatever pressure or suction, but since it's other hose is being sealed off by the selector valve, that cylinder can't/won't move.

Bob

[JSinMO]

Very good information guys. Thank you again. When I think of my immediate use of the tractor a simple shutoff valve to the 3point would work. I want it to hold position when using the blade or a mower deck. Of course the need may change over time, I see this tractor serving a general utility role for us at this point. I need to go up to the technical data and do some homework. Thanks again guys, I really appreciate your knowledge!

[Gordy]

Here is what I came up with for a easily removable ball for my sleeve hitch.

Gordy

[JSinMO]

Here is what I came up with for a easily removable ball for my sleeve hitch.

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Gordy

That’s pretty much what I had in mind. After digging around in my pieces and parts I came up with some galvanized C channel, and a hitch. I need to make a receiver for it and try welding it all together!

[JSinMO]

Here’s what I came up with for a hitch. A sloppy paint job, and a sneaky camera angle, and you can hardly see how terrible my welding is!

I guess the proof is in using it. I went around picking things up and moving them. So far my welds didn’t break!

This did show me that I absolutely need to come up with weight and chains, or ag tires. The turf tires with no weight sure like to spin.