Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Dec 22, 2021 10:27 pm
Back to the old carburetor. Got the one inch long bronze bushing from a bearing place just north of Toronto and cut a 1/8 piece. Hacksaw guys, forgive me for not using the lathe but the wrong chuck jaws were on and I was in great hurry having a few chores for the family waiting for me. After a little filing and deburring the bronze sleeve went in with a few light hammer knocks. It's a tight fit so I've no concerns it goes loose.
6EEEA1F6-A53A-4ADD-8834-06A99C7C1E09.jpeg
Inserted the shaft with a little grease in all the right places. There is zero side movement now, and the rotation action is smooth and precise. I deserve a beer!
202181A7-3E6F-4FDC-B7EC-36B18E2739A8.jpeg
But the housing looks pretty shabby, wouldn't mind stripping it of gunk and paint and giving it a new finish.
I'd say it also needs new gaskets, a good cleaning of all tiny holes and jet, etc.
Nice work, as a smack my hand to my forehead.
But, That is not where the new bushing goes. You are right the carb body is some alloy that is very soft. That is where the wear from the throttle shaft happens. Calipers are not used since there is no known spec for the acceptable wear which is actually the hole, not the shaft. You drill and add a bushing to the main hole.
The correct repair is all over the internet if you use Google, with pictures, and everything. Sorry if I seem harsh. I am the older guy and why I am the one who uses Google and has to tell young people to use Google kind of baffles me. Maybe I should try Google on that.
I recently replaced the rear brakes on my beater with a heater. A very easy job that I have done many times. But, the first thing I did even before ordering parts was to watch a YouTube by a professional that usually is hosted by the parts sellers. What this does for me is if there are special considerations I know them. The good videos that I look for I actually take notes from. The good videos tell you the wrench or socket sizes you will need. Then at the end, the good video tells you the torque specs for each fastener. If it does not then I Google the specs. It's all free and easy and should be your number one step.
Now it turns out I also have to the front ones. The price of owning a 20-year-old vehicle that lived a dirty life. The front bleeders were barely anything left. The rear calipers were completely not working. So, on to the fronts.
The rear disk had one of 2 pistons not frozen. All sliders were locked up.
Eugen wrote: ↑Wed Dec 22, 2021 10:27 pm
Back to the old carburetor. Got the one inch long bronze bushing from a bearing place just north of Toronto and cut a 1/8 piece. Hacksaw guys, forgive me for not using the lathe but the wrong chuck jaws were on and I was in great hurry having a few chores for the family waiting for me. After a little filing and deburring the bronze sleeve went in with a few light hammer knocks. It's a tight fit so I've no concerns it goes loose.
6EEEA1F6-A53A-4ADD-8834-06A99C7C1E09.jpeg
Inserted the shaft with a little grease in all the right places. There is zero side movement now, and the rotation action is smooth and precise. I deserve a beer!
202181A7-3E6F-4FDC-B7EC-36B18E2739A8.jpeg
But the housing looks pretty shabby, wouldn't mind stripping it of gunk and paint and giving it a new finish.
I'd say it also needs new gaskets, a good cleaning of all tiny holes and jet, etc.
Nice work, as a smack my hand to my forehead.
But, That is not where the new bushing goes. You are right the carb body is some alloy that is very soft. That is where the wear from the throttle shaft happens. Calipers are not used since there is no known spec for the acceptable wear which is actually the hole, not the shaft. You drill and add a bushing to the main hole.
The correct repair is all over the internet if you use Google, with pictures, and everything. Sorry if I seem harsh. I am the older guy and why I am the one who uses Google and has to tell young people to use Google kind of baffles me. Maybe I should try Google on that.
I recently replaced the rear brakes on my beater with a heater. A very easy job that I have done many times. But, the first thing I did even before ordering parts was to watch a YouTube by a professional that usually is hosted by the parts sellers. What this does for me is if there are special considerations I know them. The good videos that I look for I actually take notes from. The good videos tell you the wrench or socket sizes you will need. Then at the end, the good video tells you the torque specs for each fastener. If it does not then I Google the specs. It's all free and easy and should be your number one step.
Now it turns out I also have to the front ones. The price of owning a 20-year-old vehicle that lived a dirty life. The front bleeders were barely anything left. The rear calipers were completely not working. So, on to the fronts.
The rear disk had one of 2 pistons not frozen. All sliders were locked up. It was making some noise in the rear end.
I seem to be blocked or not allowed from posting pictures or attachments.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/J68CBfJddUjpDdoz9