Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

This 4118AH has done a bit of traveling. It belonged to Doublet who sold it to me non running. I brought it to Ontario the end of May and finally took time to give it a look see. It took about an hour to trace down a faulty neutral start switch. Most of the afternoon was spent tweeking and an hour of mowing before parking it with some of units that have been used here this week. I robbed parts off of another 4118AH that is to derelict for restoration. By comparing the two wiring harnesses and doing Ohm test, the no start condition was traced to the 3 connection neutral start switch. It is in the upper middle of this photo of the derelict tractor.
Another issue is finding the oil leak. I have ruled out the hydraulic system by measuring the oil level in the tank and mowing for a 1/2 hour. The engine oil dropped about a pint in that time. The odd part is finding oil running down the shroud behind the fuel pump.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to where the oil is coming from and why?

I'm not familiar with the rest of the tractor and location of various parts. But it sure looks like a strange place for hydraulic oil. Maybe it gets squirted there? How about wiping the oil you see now with a paper towel and then running the tractor and moving the attachment lift lever up or down until it squeals to put pressure in the system, at the same time look around to see if oil squirts/leaks anywhere in that area? Wild guesses as far as I'm concerned. but they're free

I am so happy you got it running Sorry about the oil leak but felt sure the engine ran good. Should with a little work make you an excellent tractor. Later Terrry

@Spike188 Eugene , the crank case pulse hose is off the back on some of those pumps . It looks like that is the case here . 1 a bad hose connection , and possibly a bad reed valve/spring as well . Pull the side tin off and have a look see. I personally would put a new pulse hose on it clean and test . Check for oil in the breather as well .

@Doublet Terry, This tractor has been setting for unused for quite a while so my expectations were not very high. I was surprised at how little time it took to find the cause of the no start. I do have a few of the missing tractor sheet metal parts off of the donor tractor but have discovered what appear to be production changes in some. The wiring harnesses use the same pinouts but the color coding is different. Another difference is with the hydraulic / hi-Neutral-low control cover panel. With the cover in place the range selector does not engage low range fully or have a notch that matches neutral The H-N-L position on the Oklahoma 4118 does not match the position of the cover on the derelict tractor.. . Also I only have one of the side cover plates. Do you by any chance have any of those parts kicking around?

It did take about 20 minutes for the engine to smooth out. As @DavidBarkey pointed out this probably nothing more than an 1/4 inch hose issue causing the engine to burp out oil. That is an easy fix.

So far this is going to be a the tractor of choose for Merri.

Oh sorry, I misunderstood and thought it was the hydraulic oil lower by 1 pint.

If it's engine oil, like Dave said. I had quite some oil dumping too, on my 246, at the breather. One other thing that can cause this is the dipstick doesn't seal properly. My diagnostic procedure at the time was plugging the dipstick hole with a champagne cork plug.

What is model and serial numbers of parts tractor? I don't think I have any parts laying around but will check for you. The operators manual has the best wiring ( colored) diagram in it. I will see if I can find copy of it for you.

Terry

Terry, The donor tractor is a 4118AH Sn14172454

Following @DavidBarkeyadvice with the tins removed on the oily side, there is a slight leak from the back side of the fuel pump.



A bad pan gasket is not what I wanted to find. I may try to repair it over the weekend.

Merri is going to be spoiled with the power steering.
How did it mow?
Tim

Spike188 wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2023 11:08 am Another difference is with the hydraulic / hi-Neutral-low control cover panel. With the cover in place the range selector does not engage low range fully or have a notch that matches neutral

The H-N-L position on the Oklahoma 4118 does not match the position of the cover on the derelict tractor.

Have you tried adjusting the detent plate left to right? I found that loosening the detent plate screws and installing it with the transmission in gear and the lever resting in a detent would have everything else lined up when I tightened them up. There is definitely at least two production variations, but the variation I know of was in the mounting points for the plate itself, and would have prevented you from installing the cover plate at all.

Here's my 4120 (1992) with the "early" cover plate, like yours Here's my 4020 (1996) with what I believe is the "late" cover plate This photo of an Eastman-era 3021 with the same style plate as my 4020 would suggest that this is indeed the "late" cover plate design I guess the "late" variant makes sense, they were able to remove a bend from the part, which saves money on production. I can't find any parts manuals that show this variant though.

@dhitching Thanks you for the photos and confirming that there is a variation in plates..

The notched plate has been installed to the extreme left and right then taken out and reversed. Neither options worked.

I will post some follow up pictures of the different PTO lockouts on the two tractors. The Oklahoma tractor originally had the galvanized hinged lock. The donor has a bolted stop to prevent reverse engagement. Both options would for preventing deck moter failure due the abruptly changing direction of rotation.

Pulling the deck, then the motor, new pan gasket is the end goal.While there is more room to work, the wiring harness will be repaired. Looks like the oil cooler rad needs to br cleaned. What else will be found?

Clearly some work ahead of you @Spike188 since you're pulling the engine out, are you tempted to do the valves and seats? Check the bore and so on?

I am envious of your set up @Spike188 - not one, but two forklifts in your driveway of course I'm also envious of a solid driveway - I'm debating swapping the casters on my engine hoist for rubber tires so I can use it outside in the BigSky shop

RoamingGnome wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2023 5:08 pm I am envious of your set up @Spike188 - not one, but two forklifts in your driveway of course I'm also envious of a solid driveway - I'm debating swapping the casters on my engine hoist for rubber tires so I can use it outside in the BigSky shop

Your future Case loader "engine hoist" has tires already Gerry! Just saying take it from someone very familiar with operating in the BigSky shop.

Eugen wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2023 5:16 pm
Your future Case loader "engine hoist" has tires already Gerry! Just saying take it from someone very familiar with operating in the BigSky shop.

Thanks @Eugen the thoughts and ideas are constantly swirling around in my brain... sometimes it feels like my head is going to explode I look at my 446 and it's sleeve hitch (I look at it - because I still haven't gotten around to working on it after it got an attitude when I wanted to plow snow with it this winter ) I've got an engine hoist, and a Princess Auto mini truck bed crane that could be used. The mini crane is going to go on a receiver hitch that could mount on the back of Tacoma, or the Samurai, or a Case GT...

Just need to take a break from cleaning and purging house stuff... I understand exactly how some of you feel when it's time to step back and take a breather for a little while

So much for planning to pull the motor and replace the pan gasket in an afternoon. One of the lift ring bolts in the head was twisted off. The standard way of welding a nut to the stub and wrenching the piece out was a bust. Over a period of 4 hours, sleeping on the problem, and putting off inevitable, the welding method was shelved. The broken bolt did turn about 5 minutes but must have been badly gulled. It just kept twisting off the weld. This is the only time I have ever had to give up on this method. Even with grinding a bit of the casting away there was no evidence of why the bolt was seizing.The winning approach was drilling the the broken bolt out. I would normally drill just smaller than the minor thread diameter and pick the remainder of the bolt out of the head. In this case picking was not working so a 1/4 bit was used to clean out the hole. This left enough meat for tapping with an M7 X 1 cutter. 10 pieces of M7 course bolts cost $4.30 and problem solve.

In answer to @Eugen , now that the motor is out the cracked dash panel will get replaced with on supplied by @Doublet . Thank you for the panel Terry, while the motor is out, there is a bit more incentive to replace it t. The control levers have to be removed for dash removal.

7mm bolt vs 5/16

The original bolt was 1/4" or 0.250" the M7 × 1 calls for a drill size of 0.234 (15/64) or 0.016 smaller than the 1/4" drilled hole.

A 5/16 bolt is 0.3125" and calls for a drill size of 0.265 (17/64)

Visually the M7 is considerably smaller than a 5/16. An M7 fit through the tins and hood stop strap without modification. M7's are a rare but stock item locally so with a bit of thread lock the drill size differance of 0.016 is easly delt with. The head of the M7 is very close in appearance to a 1/4" head. To me this is a win, win.

If all else fails an up size to a 5/16 bolt is still possible.