Colt Case Ingersoll Garden Tractors

keith wrote: ↑Wed May 17, 2023 8:36 am I have read your posts and am thankful for you and everyone else for doing so with pics that helps guys like me that have very little knowledge of mechanics.

Hey Keith. I don’t have anything technical to add here, I just wanted to give you a vote of confidence!

You said you had little knowledge of mechanics and it makes me very happy to read you working on the engine! I have no doubt you can get it fixed up and ready to go.
I hope you can update this and let us know how it’s going!

Thanks for the vote of confidence. It helps more than you know. I'll take some pics along the way when I can remember. The crankshaft is at the machine shop getting the taper removed, just waiting for the call to pick it up. Wow! Onan parts are pricey, also cost of shipping after converting to cad. dollars. Shipped close to where I live, then I cross the boarder to eliminate shipping cost to Canada.

The 14hp Kohler I rebuilt last year was the first one for me too. With good advice from people's here its came out good. You'll be fine.

Todays update on rebuilding the engine, crankshaft has been turned down to 1" diameter for a new lovejoy coupling and installed. Camshaft is installed with timing marks aligned. Block has fresh honing with new rings on the pistons, which are installed. Valves on one side are installed but I lost a cap for the valve stem for the other side, so this week I'm going to call around for a new one. Don't know how that happened because during dissasembly I grouped them together and put them in zip-loc bags labeled to where they go. First mistake I made. Also Learned how to change govenor cup spacer from nylon/plastic to metal. That one I used red loc-tite on the inner ring to secure it. to a metal one. Also found that the newer nylon/plastic spacers have one longer finger that extends into the bottom notch of the outer ring to sort of keep it locked in place whereas the one in image that I have can possibly start to spin causing govenor over speeding of the engine. These spacers are not glued but held in place by a snug fit on the inner collar. Over time they can become worn and cause problems. Removal only requires a firm grip with your fingers, easy to remove in other words. The spacer above was put in early bge and p-series engines, then was changed to the newer one. Second mistake is I had put the gear housing on with govenor linkage in the wrong direction, so it is now put back together the correct way. That's it for now. Sorry for the long ramble. I hope this is useful info for someone

Thanks for the update @keith keep ‘em coming!
I’m looking forward to the first start up!

@keith If you can't find a cap locally , message me . I am sure I have one . I can mail it to you .

Good to see you're making progress Keith, thanks for the update. Those valve retainers have a way of disappearing, don't they? Happened to me when I took the valves off "in the field" on a cold winter day on a B&S 16hp engine. Looked for it hard and could not find it. Then I ordered a pair, they were pretty cheap. Only to find the original one if you can believe, months after.

I found some extra parts when I bought my 446 and was wondering if I should install these or go with the points. If I go with the electronic parts, what other parts would be needed or upgraded for this to work?

keith wrote: ↑Thu Jun 08, 2023 7:48 am I found some extra parts when I bought my 446 and was wondering if I should install these or go with the points. DSCF0751.JPG If I go with the electronic parts, what other parts would be needed or upgraded for this to work?

Go with the electronic, might need the coil P series , depending what you have . P series is non resisted , where the points coil is internally resisted .