My Kohler K321 14HP rebuild thread

[Eugen]

Update. After adjusting the lovejoy coupling to the pump it was turning much better but wouldn't start. The ignition key was also not always working until it stopped entirely, tested with a multimeter. When I supplied 12V to the solenoid directly it started turning more seriously and afterwards some time it fired up. It stays running as long as it gets 12V to the solenoid but stops otherwise. I'm thinking either the generator isn't supplying AC or the regulator isn't doing its job.

On the plus side while it was running it sounded nice.

More troubleshooting ahead.

[Gordy]

Not to sound like a smartass BUT, Generators put out DC power. Alternator is short for Alternating Current (AC). Google and youtube should explain better this process and how to test your system.


Gordy

[Eugen]

Not to sound like a smartass BUT, Generators put out DC power. Alternator is short for Alternating Current (AC). Google and youtube should explain better this process and how to test your system.


Gordy

Oops, you're right

[Eugen]

Well, I was familiar with the alternator type charging system like most modern cars, but had no idea about the Delco-Remy type voltage regulators for the starter/generator like I now have on this 244. Digging up all kinds of info on this, including principles of operation and troubleshooting. Down the rabbit hole I go...

Thank you @Gordy for pointing it out!

[Eugen]

So I didn't repolarize the generator after reconnecting all wires, which apparently is needed. Had no idea :/

I will try that next.

[Eugen]

Done repolarizing the generator, didn't fix the problem.

I think it's the regulator. Here's why. This tractor's regulator has 4 tabs,
A = armature
F = field
BAT = battery
L = load (lights)

A and F are connected directly to A and F on the generator. BAT gets +12V from the battery, not directly, but through the Amp meter.

Now, L from the regulator provides +12V to the ignition switch (key), which distributes it, depending on the key position. Key positions:

0 = tractor is off, no power goes to any part of the system.
1 = headlights get +12V
2 = headlights, and high voltage coil get +12V
3 = this is spring loaded and it goes back to position 2 if you let go of the key. This supplies
+12V to the solenoid which in turn opens the high current circuit from the battery to the A (armature) of the starter/generator, thus turning the engine. So if you let go of the key once the engine started, ignition switch goes to position 2, which supplies a continuous +12V to the coil which supplies the high voltage impulse to the spark plug.

Fine, here's the issue. When I put the key to position 3 to start the engine, the voltage supplied by L from the regulator goes to 0V. So this makes me conclude that something is not right with the regulator.

The other hokey thing with this tractor is the following. I bypassed the regulator and supplied +12V directly from the battery to the solenoid. The engine does start, not just turn, but runs for real; but as soon as I remove the jumper to the solenoid it stops. This again points to a defective regulator. I think. Please correct me guys, if I took a wrong turn somewhere.

[Eugen]

While looking for a regulator I come across this listing on FB Marketplace I mean, how timely is that? Turns out that David Heurkens lives in Port Perry, and has a lot of Case parts for sale, as he's getting out of repairing Case garden tractors which he has done for many years. Too bad he's getting out of Case tractors, he'd have made a really good addition to our gang here!


But Port Perry is quite far from me. What do you know, he told me he's visiting Waubashene at the end of the month and he'll bring the parts I need along. Wow! I knew God loves me but He's too good to me sometimes, undeservedly I might add!

[Eugen]

Done some troubleshooting last night. Traced backwards from the regulator towards the battery because I noticed voltage going to zero on the input to the regulator, when turning ignition switch to crank the engine. Between that tab and battery there was the amp meter and a fuse inserted in the system by the PO.

Replaced the fuse with a crimped connection.

The problem persisted. So I took the amp meter ouț of the circuit as well.

PROBLEM GONE! The engine starts and runs fine!





https://vimeo.com/631937872

[Eugen]

Now on to the carburetor adjustment and break in. This thing came to me with one of those new carbs that has the choke flap arm backwards, such that the choke is on when moving the lever down instead of up. I'd like to change that to the way it's supposed to be.

[DavidBarkey]

Now on to the carburetor adjustment and break in. This thing came to me with one of those new carbs that has the choke flap arm backwards, such that the choke is on when moving the lever down instead of up. I'd like to change that to the way it's supposed to be.

Next time your over remind me and I will show you how to do it .
Dave