Kohler k321 static timing.

[propane1]

Anybody a guru in this department. How to do a static timing setting. I have done it on this engine but something seems screwy. Of course I could be doing this wrong. When turning the flywheel clockwise, the points open should start to open when the Spark line on flywheel is lined up with the timing line on bearing cover. Is this correct ? If so, why do I have to turn the crank 1/4 more turn before points start to open. ?
Any ideas.

Noel

[Eugen]

Have a look at my k321 rebuild. One of the pictures on reassembly shows the mark on the crankshaft lined up with the mark on the camshaft. That's how it should be.

I don't remember when in the turn the points rod moves in or out.

[propane1]

Well I never had the crank out or the cam shaft. Engine did run before, but broke the rod. So only thing I did was replace the piston, rod assembly. So stupid me thought. Maybe while I have it here I should time it. If they are off in timing, it’s not good running.
Any way, thanks for your response Eugen.
It would have to be off a lot of teeth between the cam and crank to get a 1/4 turn.


Noel

[Eugen]

Why do you think timing is off?

[myerslawnandgarden]

Anybody a guru in this department. How to do a static timing setting. I have done it on this engine but something seems screwy. Of course I could be doing this wrong. When turning the flywheel clockwise, the points open should start to open when the Spark line on flywheel is lined up with the timing line on bearing cover. Is this correct ? If so, why do I have to turn the crank 1/4 more turn before points start to open. ?
Any ideas.

Noel

Since you mention static timing and the breaker points I assume that you are referring to ignition timing rather than camshaft timing. You are correct, the points should just break when the "S" mark is lined up with the mark on the bearing plate as that is when the spark occurs. If you static timing is way off, the only way to change it is with the breaker point gap. .020" is the nominal setting, it doesn't really matter if you end up at .015" or .025" in order to get the timing correct, timing is more important than gap. The only other thing that I would suggest that you look at is the breaker point push rod as there was an era when Kohler installed an aluminum rod which worked until they changed to a stiffer spring on the points and then they were prone to wear.

Bob

[propane1]

Bob, I’ve changed the setting of the points, but doesn't seem to get the S mark any closer the bearing plate mark. I changed the push rod with a temporary one. I made it .035 longer, but didn’t change any thing.

Noel

[myerslawnandgarden]

Noel,

Could I get the model and s/n or approximate year of manufacture of your tractor? My apology if you mentioned that information and I missed it somewhere.

Bob

[propane1]

I’ll get the info off the engine this morning Bob. This engine was not in any particular tractor. It was with a tractor I bought. I got three engines, tractor, snow Plow and tandem disks at that time.

Noel

[propane1]

Why do you think timing is off?

Just wanted to set it better than just setting the points. If you set the points to 0.020 they are supposed to spark at around 20 degrees before top dead centre. So static timing or using a timing light is more accurate. With the timing light being the most accurate. But I don’t have a timing light. These engine have a general points setting of 0.018 to 0.022 with 0.020 being the happy place. They will run with late or advanced timing but not as good as if they are set correctly. Late timing is very nasty. Engines run very hot. Any way Eugen, was just trying to do something right and now got myself in trouble. As normal.
When the S on the flywheel lines up with the bearing plate mark that’s when the spark is suppose to happen. I have to turn the engine a 1/4 turn more past that to get the spark to happen.
The more I ramble, the more confusing it gets maybe.

Noel

[DavidBarkey]

Why do you think timing is off?

Just wanted to set it better than just setting the points. If you set the points to 0.020 they are supposed to spark at around 20 degrees before top dead centre. So static timing or using a timing light is more accurate. With the timing light being the most accurate. But I don’t have a timing light. These engine have a general points setting of 0.018 to 0.022 with 0.020 being the happy place. They will run with late or advanced timing but not as good as if they are set correctly. Late timing is very nasty. Engines run very hot. Any way Eugen, was just trying to do something right and now got myself in trouble. As normal.
When the S on the flywheel lines up with the bearing plate mark that’s when the spark is suppose to happen. I have to turn the engine a 1/4 turn more past that to get the spark to happen.
The more I ramble, the more confusing it gets maybe.

Noel

Noel , have you had the fly wheel off yet ?? If not the problem may be the key is sheared and the fly wheel is out of time to the crank. You said the rod was broken , but I assume you don't know why the rod broke or what happened when it did . Sometimes when things come apart things jam up and the crank stops abruptly and the inertia of the fly wheel can shear the key . If you have not had the flywheel off I would check that and clean up the stater while in there if so equipped .

Dave