JSinMO wrote: ↑Tue Jun 28, 2022 8:12 pm
Looking good, glad you found the issue. I don’t know if lapping the valves is necessary in this case, but I dont think it’s gonna hurt.
Do you guys use copper cote on your gaskets? I started using it years ago on head gaskets and haven’t had a leak yet.
Jeff, are you talking about this product?
I happen to have a can of this product. Found a gasket that I haven't really used, just installed once and tried an engine with. Will use the spray on it, thanks for suggesting it!
Well, it should teach me to look things up on google. The manual says 0.008-0.010 for intake clearance, not what I found on google somewhere which said 0.007-0.009. It looks like I set my intake valve clearance at the tight end but I think Noel @Propane57 would like it like this because it goes faster
For the record and so I don't look it up on google, here's the next relevant thing.
Ya. Racey Eugen. Some thing I do when tightening the head bolts. Now this is just me. I learned this from a fella in Australia. He is a tractor mechanic. Do the tightening in stages. I do 20 ftlb, leave it for 15-30 minutes, then 25 ftlb, same wait time, last one 30 ftlbs. Same wait time then recheck. His theory is the gasket will squeeze in the wait times. I tend to agree. Then do the normal heat up and cool down, then check again at 30 ftlbs.
Just the way I do it. Not sayin this is how you have to do it. You do it what ever way you want.
JSinMO wrote: ↑Tue Jun 28, 2022 8:12 pm
Looking good, glad you found the issue. I don’t know if lapping the valves is necessary in this case, but I dont think it’s gonna hurt.
Do you guys use copper cote on your gaskets? I started using it years ago on head gaskets and haven’t had a leak yet.
Jeff, are you talking about this product?
Screen Shot 2022-06-29 at 13.22.06.png
I happen to have a can of this product. Found a gasket that I haven't really used, just installed once and tried an engine with. Will use the spray on it, thanks for suggesting it!
Yes that’s it. My dad used to keep a can of copper cote that you brushed on, very thick stuff. I don’t think you can get it anymore. I’ve used the spray can version like you have a few times and it has worked well. I don’t skimp on applying it, I put a good couple of coats on it.
That’s great news that you back up and running! Now it’s time to get it out of the work bay and back to moving gravel!
Yeah, seems to run better, but hunting at high rpm. Spent some time hugging the governor last night, this engine is a different type k321 than what we usually have on the 224 or 444, seems to me it's a John deere perhaps transplanted . Has a long governor spring and different linkages.
Anyway, it also had the thick carburetor gasket, and I put back with a thin gasket. could this cause the surging or I didn't open up the riching jet
Eugen wrote: ↑Thu Jun 30, 2022 10:05 am
Yeah, seems to run better, but hunting at high rpm. Spent some time hugging the governor last night, this engine is a different type k321 than what we usually have on the 224 or 444, seems to me it's a John deere perhaps transplanted . Has a long governor spring and different linkages.
Anyway, it also had the thick carburetor gasket, and I put back with a thin gasket. could this cause the surging or I didn't open up the riching jet
Excessive play in the governor linkage can cause hunting too. Without a gas anilizer , the only way I know is to start with a fresh spark plug warm it up set idle mix then adjust main jet if adjustable run WOT for about ten min. shut down . When cool enough pull the plug and read the colour . If your colour is good (tan) then you have governor issues.
Two steps forward one step back. I gave it a little richer mixture from the main jet and it wasn't hunting so much. Moved some soil to fill up some holes, and when it got hot the engine stopped, just like before.
I'll check the points gap for no better thing to do. Really wish I knew if it overheats.
@DavidBarkey I'll also clean up the spark plug and see what it'll look like when it stops again.