Case 446 hydraulics

[houstad]

I have a 446-78. It was sittin in the outdoors for 20 years and now it is mine. It has been repowered with a B&S 18hp vanguard. (before me) I got it started and running pretty solid. It has the lurching problem and I have the plan and getting the parts to fix that. My biggest problem so far is that this machine has been frankensteined to work and I am trying to get it back to good. This machine is going to be a trailer mover and probably push snow.
The hydraulic line is leaking. I show pictures of this "tee" that appears to not supposed to be there as far as I know as I can't find it on any manuals. The line is the bottom line from the cooler. I want to replace all the lines but I am not sure what to get. When I look at the parts manuals I can see the lines I need but not sure they will work. Can I remove this "tee" section? Then just put a straight solid line in? I have read in places that the lines have to be a specific length do to pressures. I know nothing of hydraulics. I can get more pictures if needed. Thanks for the input.

Houstad

[myerslawnandgarden]

Lots of mods to this tractor by the pics. The tee is where a flow control would normally dump the excess back into the system, that line could be replaced with the standard version.

Bob

[Eugen]

I don't know exactly what tractor you have but if you have the hydraulic oil tank at the front, the hose from it to the the pump intake is a 1 inch suction hose, you'll find that at most hydraulic shops. It should say working pressure 300 psi or something like that. DO NOT be tempted to use regular hose, it'll collapse. The length is something like 3 feet give or take a few inches. The other two pieces of hose that might be on your tractor are connecting the radiator (oil cooler) to hydraulic lines, one is return from the circuit into the cooler, and the other is between radiator and hydraulic oil tank. Both are also suction hose, 3/4 inch nominal diameter. The lengths are something like 4-5 inches, maybe a little shorter. Again, don't be tempted to use a different kind of hose. I've had these hoses bursts on me several times because the previous owner used regular coolant hose type.

[houstad]

I attached a few more pictures. These hoses that are on here are so long that when I close the hood they "dangle" past the bottom of the tractor. My question is. Until I can get it done right can I trim these hoses down and take out that TEE section and use better clamps? AS it is now with this current setup it is also close to impossible to shut the hood with the way they are. It is getting to that point in the year for me where I will be putting this 446 in the barn until I can get the proper parts to fix the travel/lurching after the holidays. I have a huge xmas light display that takes a few months to set up.

[DavidBarkey]

@houstad I would say most likely yes , but not being there and seeing it in person I can not be 100% about it . As for better clamps , Yes get away from gear clamps as they deform the aluminium tubes of the cooler Carefully make the tubes round again and use full circumference clamp like these.

[DavidBarkey]

@houstad We would all like to see you light display when finished .

[houstad]

Lots of mods to this tractor by the pics. The tee is where a flow control would normally dump the excess back into the system, that line could be replaced with the standard version.

Bob

I am getting the replacement tube as a C-19191 that has been replaced with C-26182. I have no idea what version is on there but it is not a "tee" connection like i thought. Just an extra port for lack of better vocabulary. I don't think anyone makes a "cap " to put on there.

Mt tractor #'s are
Case 446--78
SN 9756926